TALL RIDER , LOWERING FOOTPEGS, HOW MUCH ??

This is my first post. Looks like a great forum.

I ride a 03wr450 up here in quebec. I`ve been riding for many years, mainly trails in the last few.

Yes i am a tall rider (not a tallfider :thumbsup::awww:)6`2" 195 pds.I have a tendancy to ride sitting, wich as been ok so far. Most of my friends (5`10" or so) ride standing wich is much easier for them. I`ve decided lately that i wanted to work on riding in the standing position more. It seems to offer more technical advantages and is easier on the spine in the long run. I have tapered bar with an adapter wich brings them up about 1 inch.

WATH I WOULD LIKE TO DO IS LOWER THE FOOTPEGS AS MUCH AS POSSIBLE.

I think that lowering the footpegs is the foremost important thing a tall rider can do. It brings him closer to the controls, helps him sqeeze the bike with is knees, brings down the hole center of gravety wich improves balance.

BUT HOW FAR DOWN CAN YOU OR SHOULD YOU GO???

I`ve read about lowboy footpegs by fastway wich brings them down a 1/2 inch. Is this enough and worth it? Can they be taking down any lower and how? any other aftermarkets?

Any response would be appreciated.

Tallrider :lol:

PS: By the way i went riding down West Virginia at the Hatfield-Mccoy trails last april. Great place to ride specialy when there is still snow up here.

I plan on doing the same thing to mine. If I get them soon I will let you know how I like it. Welcome to thumpertalk

I would like to know how they worked also I am 6-1 and I put risers on my stock handle bars and that helped alot, I think the foot pegs would just make it even better :thumbsup:

Take a look at this post about bar risers - http://www.thumpertalk.com/forum/showflat.php/Cat/0/Number/1113702/page/2/view/collapsed/sb/5/o/all/fpart/1

I'm 6'4"/size 14 boots and I tried lowering the footpegs - I bought a pair of stock pegs, cut the barrels and swapped them. I think it lowers the peg ~3/4" and brings the peg towards the rear ~3/4". I went back to the stock position pegs - the only time I've smacked my toes on a rock was with the lowered pegs. I just couldn't get comfortable with the lowered pegs. I use a Guts Tall/firm seat and the 1.5" bar risers as discussed in the linked thread and I'm very comfortable while standing.

Brian

Fit some TAG T2 YZ doubble high bars #1018 115mm high plus some mounting clamps #4090 adds another 17mm height, or you could replace the top tripple clamp with TAG T2 Upper clamp # 4000 and +10mm clamps #4095 and move them forward as well.

I've replaced the clamp and love the bars furter forward

I lowered my footpegs using the method above and I couldn't be happier. I measured the change in position and it is almost exactly 10mm down and 10mm back. It made more of a difference than I thought though. I am not accidently hitting the shifter and the brake lever nearly as much now. I also feel more like I am "in" the bike rather than "on" it. I'm kinda tall too at 6'4" and this was one of the best mods I have done. I also have a dh1 tc with the tallest and furthest forward bar position they offer. I love this bike now. :thumbsup:

Welcome to TT... :thumbsup:

The cost to lower your stock pegs is about 10 minutes of your time... 2 split pins, and a blob of BelRay waterproof grease...

I am 6' 6" and it does make a difference, along with bar risers and taller seat foam...

Good luck,

David

I did the free footpeg lowering mod. Just cut the tubes off the footpegs, then make a few new tubes (u can use the bits you cut off with a washer to compensate for the hacksaw width). Then you just swap the L to R and R to left (springs as well) and away you go. I've had my lowered pegs for a month or so now, still not 100% convinced that they are right for me. They make the WR's 'already too high' brake lever even worse, but I plan to make a new lever soon to fix this problem.

Thank you all for the info. This is realy a great site. I learned a few tricks on lowering the pegs and rissing the bars in no time at all. I will be trying these mods shortly and will give you my full review.

I`m not sure i got the footpeg procedure 100% since I dont keep my bike at home. I will figure it out as soon as i can visualise it.

What i understand is that you invert the pegs wich turns them upside down. If that`s the case you therefore lose the spikes. How did you guys cope with that? Do the boots have a tendency to slip off? Thanks.

Not the pegs, the springs are swapped

Thank you all for the info. This is relay a great site. I learned a few tricks on lowering the pegs and rissing the bars in no time at all. I will be trying these mods shortly and will give you my full review.

I`m not sure i got the footpeg procedure 100% since I dont keep my bike at home. I will figure it out as soon as i can visualise it.

What i understand is that you invert the pegs wich turns them upside down. If that`s the case you therefore lose the spikes. How did you guys cope with that? Do the boots have a tendency to slip off? Thanks.

It is simple enough, but sometimes a picture is worth a thousand posts... I will see if I can get a couple of pics of stock pegs, and then some modified pegs... it will all become clear with a few pics...

Stay tuned for the PDF...

David

I have done this footpeg mod. It works, and gives you the advertised gains as far as room on the bike. I HAVE noticed I catch more logs and rocks on the toe though, and that can definitely be a bad thing. I have also ridden the Fastway footpegs, and must say they ROCK. They ride pretty much the same position as the modded stockers, but the increase in comfort and ridability has to be felt to be believed. They are definitely on my short list... :thumbsup:

anyone done this to the 2004 titanium pegs, how do you cut the stuff?

Footpeg mod....done that...worth it...but brake lever is quite high now, though bearable.

so....anybody know of a good brake lever mod to lower it more than the barrel adjuster allows ??

when I get around to it, I plan to make a billet brake lever. I will cut it out of 10mm ally plate, making the inside (small) and outside sections seperately. Then just drill a small hole where the pivot goes and work out the required angle. Then weld the two plates together and bore the pivot hole oversize to accept a bronze bushing. Then I plan to make a removeable toe pad so it can be fine tuned. All up it'll cost me about $10 :thumbsup:

The good thing about my work is having access to plasma cutter and ally welders.

I'll post some pics when it's done.

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