Brakes: Are they really worth it?

So Yamaha is coming out with the "CR or Correct" style front brake routhing for 2005.

Who out there has done the conversion on their YZF and HONESTLY noticed a difference?

Now I'm talking about those of you whose bikes are less than a few years old with brake lines still in good condition and did not opt for the oversise rotor.

I rode a friend's 01 WR426 with only a steel braded line (Stock routing). The feel was much more positive than my YZ426 with stock line & routing. Then I got a chance to ride a 02 Yz426 with the CR style briaded line. To be honest, I could not feel any improvement over the standard route with the braided line.

I'm defineatly going to add a braided line. Just wondering which way to go? I really dont like the way the CR line goes between the fork & the wheel. Has anyone had any offroad issues with this? :thumbsup:

Yes you will notice a difference. But you must bleed all of your existing fluid out(very important - squeeze the pistons to empty from caliper). Use Motul Brake fluid -it is the best! Bleed all air bubbles out - be patient & if you want to even make them better - add larger rotor. DRD makes anice kit as well as Lightspeed for routing & Galfer & Fastline have the cables -ask for CR routed.

I was thinking about going to the cr routing as well but, I saw something on one of my buddies bikes with cr routing... the brake line rubbing on the lower fork tube-- leaving scuffs. has anyone else run into this?

Now you tell me! :excuseme:I just got the light speed cr style fork gards and braided line,i can tell you I saw a difference! Not a night and day difference,but a differnce

none the less!I have always used motul and like it a lot!

PS I like the new cr stlye fork gaurds as well! :thumbsup:

Simple physics says go with the shorter line. Less fluid to move and less area to expand means better response whether you can notice it or not. (And the steel braided do expand some)

There is a marked difference. You will feel it.

The only advantage is it's easier to bleed.....the downside is I've seen a crapload of these get sucked into the wheel, never seen it happen with stock YZ routing. And I've never had a problem bleeding the stock-routed line. I have a 90YZ-WR that uses the same routing and can bleed it to rock-like status in ~10 minutes(haven't had to bleed my 03WR, yet)......CR-type routings for a CR, don't ruin your Yamaha with a Hondog idea!!

Now you tell me! :excuseme:I just got the light speed cr style fork gards and braided line,i can tell you I saw a difference! Not a night and day difference,but a differnce

none the less!I have always used motul and like it a lot!

PS I like the new cr stlye fork gaurds as well! :thumbsup:

You WILL see a difference if you go from the stock rubber line to a steel-braided line.....otherwise there will be no change.

You WILL see a difference if you go from the stock rubber line to a steel-braided line.....otherwise there will be no change.

Ditto on this. Its the braided line that makes the big difference, not the routing. Everyone is sold on the idea that the Honda routing is the way to go, and of course when they do this mod they use a braided line. They see a big improvement, and then spread the word some more that the Honda routing is what made it better. Those guys probably feel the ounce or so of weight savings too, due to the shorter line.

fofiveoh

I understand the principle, but I really dont see how just a few more inches on the brake line is going to have that big of an affect on braking performance. I think just switching to a braided line will yield a better performance gain than the re-routing. Its a braided line, of course its going to feel better. Especially when oversized an oversized rotor is added, reguardless of the routing.

Its like installing a hot cam, full exhaust & PowerNow while starting to run race fuel all at once. The bike makes more power, but you're not sure where the gain is from & what was really necessary.

I think if I got out on the track moreI would benefit from the CR kit. But for offroad & desert I think Ill be fine with just getting a braided line & keep the stock routing. I'm not looking forward to my tire eating up my line. :thumbsup:

I did both. First to a long-routed steel-braided Fastline which made it a little better.Then I changed to the short routing and BANG! That's the one! Big change. Just guessing it could be about 30-50% improvement. Now you don't need to sqweeeeze that hard anymore. When arm pump sets in and finger strength goes out the window, it's nice to know you can still slow the bike down after a long straight or turn after a jump. After this mod and the flywheel, this one's a keeper. :thumbsup:

If you keep the stock fork protector and add a DRD or equivilent, you must modify the fork slider - You must remove material off of it or remove it completely. Otherwise as some have posted it will push your brand new steel braided line into the rotor - this will destroy the line. It is easy to fix.

And again "IF" you do this mod right you will definitely see an increase in brake performance.

So if you want ok brakes stay with the stock set up & bleed often....

if you want the best brakes you can buy do this mod and add a larger rotor.

It is not a hard decision - and you will be surprised how much easier your Yamaha will stop!

Less arm pump, thats what I like to hear! What I really noticed when I jumped to my 426 is that my wrist got worked a lot more. These thumpers require a lot more precise throttle control than a 2 stroke. My right wrist is my bad one, so anything that will relieve it is money well spent. :thumbsup::awww:

I did a CRF master cylinder and CR style brake line on my 00 and noticed a huge difference. I ran into a few snags, but nothing serious. Make sure you cut the "ears" that go behind the fork guard completely off if you opt not to remove the fork guard guide. I had problems with my fork guard snagging on the "ears" at first. I also had issues with line slack (tall bars and risers) and the fitting at the MC NOT being bent and having a hard time clearing the bars. Overall though, it was worth it. Buy oldblue's line clamp kit for the fork guard.

Does anyone know if a good auto shop could remove the banjo fitting on the line I have and replace it with one that has a slight bend to it so it will clear my bars better? I can snap a pic of the problem if it would help.

You WILL see a difference if you go from the stock rubber line to a steel-braided line.....otherwise there will be no change.

Ditto on this. Its the braided line that makes the big difference, not the routing. Everyone is sold on the idea that the Honda routing is the way to go, and of course when they do this mod they use a braided line. They see a big improvement, and then spread the word some more that the Honda routing is what made it better. Those guys probably feel the ounce or so of weight savings too, due to the shorter line.

fofiveoh

EXACTLY....it's the braided line that matters from a performance standpoint. The routing is just bling bling. I had a 426 and went the braided line w/ stock routing, great improvement. I rode a buds 426 with the shorter routing, no difference.

Does anyone know if a good auto shop could remove the banjo fitting on the line I have and replace it with one that has a slight bend to it so it will clear my bars better? I can snap a pic of the problem if it would help.

Try a place like enzed, or any hose repair place... they will be able to sort out the banjo situation for you...

Cheers,

David

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