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cowboyona426

CR brake routing question

10 posts in this topic

I'm almost ready to bolt on al my CR front brake conversion parts. So far I've got (1)used Fastline CR routed line (1) CRF 450R front master cylinder and (1) FTS front brake line clamp kit, courtesy of oldblue. I'm waiting on a new Motion Pro brake lever and I'll be all set to do the swap. My question is, in the instructions for the FTS clamp, it says to remove the fork guide or cut it so it doesn't snag the brake line, which I can see happening easily. With the upper guide either cut or removed, what keep the fork guard from flopping around and/or breaking off? Keep in mind I ride mostly trails where there are rocks and branches that like to jump out and grab you. Any thoughts/suggestions would be appreciated :)

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Don't worry, almost everyone, especially with a CR style brake line routing, removes both fork sliders. They will not snag your forks, bend, or do any damage. Look on pro's bikes like Dr. D, etc. Their fork sliders are all removed. I've done it on both my YZF's with NO problems! :)

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OK, so I do the Fasline brakeline, CR routing and mounted the cable in one of those nifty little carbon-fiber clamps that I mounted on the fork gaurd. The feel is a little better, but I dunno - it kinda' feels the same as it did before. I had to do something though as I had busted the stock brakeline.

Here's the problem: Now I can't keep the cable in the clamp. It keeps separating the outer sheath of the cable at the tranistion point from where the cable goes from black outer sheathing to the clear part. Then the whole thing slides around in the clamp. Also, when it slides down, the outer sheathing keeps hitting the front rotor and getting cut.

This whole setup really sucks. :) Anyone else having the same problem? :D

RLS

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Thats exactly why I have gone with steel braided lines that use the stock routing method. But honestly I cannot tell the difference between the stock lines and the steel braided lines. They both brake just as hard to me, and neither fades as long as you use quality fluid (Motul for me) and change it when it turns dark from the heat.

Bonzai :)

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Okay first thing on the fork slider guides. You can remove them. Look at the CRs, none there! Or any Works fork -- they all use CR fork guards and no sliders.

But What I have found is that sometimes the stress of the line on the fork guard pushes it so it slides against the upper fork tube lip. The rivets or bolts that hold the clamp will wear into the fork metal -- bad situation. My suggestion is if you have the clamp bolted or riveted onto the guard, then take the ears off the fork guide so you just have a round donut. This way you keep the wear on the modified plastic guide and not on the fork tubes!!!

A better option is the light speed fork guards:

141-17064.jpg

Lightspeed Perf

I have had mine on order for a few months now. They are finally shipping, I should have mine tomorrow!!! But it is about time someone made these!!!! Pics and updates to come for sure.

Now to hold the line on the clamp, you need to safety wire it! Wrap the line twice then twist until you get down to the bottom of the clamp, wrap twice and then braid a pigtail, cut and tuck the pig tail. All the pros do the same thing.

Here is a pic of a crappy job done (bottom left):

mxa0703.jpg

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No money Brent! :) My hours at work got seriously cut this week because I'm gone from Thursday until Sunday on a field trip for school, so I didn't want to run myself into the poor house. The setup that you sent me a link for went for 40 bucks! If only I hadn't bought the CRF master cylinder... :D

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Thanks for the idea Matt, I did basically the same thing with plastic zip-ties, but they eventually failed. Also, it looks like I have mine pulled way too tight. :) I have it mounted behind my number plate. I flipped over the cable guide at the top of the fork so that I could route the line behind the number plate. I think I'll put it back the way it's supposed to be.

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