ak47bravo

KTM 150 XC Carb issue

13 posts in this topic

Hey guys,

 

So I bought my 2012' 150 XC not too long ago. It would not start (bowl was stuck open and just pouring gas out of the overflow tubes).

 

 

I took the carb apart and cleaned everything really well with carb cleaner. There was definitely a lot of gunk in there.

 

Put it back on the bike and could not get it to start via kick start. I could only push start it.

 

 

Took it apart again and cleaned everything out again. Finally was able to start the bike via kick start. So I thought everything was working properly.

 

I went out to ride this past weekend and the bike died on me several times. It appeared that the float got stuck in the up position so it was not allowing fuel into the bowl.

 

I tapped on the bowl with a rock and got the fuel flowing again.

 

 

Ended up spraying carb cleaner into the bowl drain plug and did not have anymore issues the rest of the day.

 

Does anyone know why the bowl continues to get stuck? I checked the floats and they are fine.

 

I went ahead and bought a new float needle, and arm float pin.

 

It just seems odd I keep having issues when I have cleaned it out several times.

 

 

Thanks.

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Does it still do it with the new needle & seat ?

also turn your fuel tap off when not riding it

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Maybe clean your tank/petcock out and replace the fuel hose.  Or if it doesn't light off in a couple kicks lean the bike over to verify fuel is coming in and out the overflow. If not pick the back end of the bike up and drop it (better than tapping the carb with rock, but you can do that also?.  What happens in storage is the fuel left in the carb evaporate leaving a sticky film of oil on the fuel needle seat and even the float pivot, so it sticks until it's wetted with new fuel. Rest of the day it's fine.

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Does it still do it with the new needle & seat ?
also turn your fuel tap off when not riding it




The bike had been running fine around my neighborhood but I had not really ridden much.

It was running fine at the track for about 10 minutes then that's when I had issues.

The bike does not have a new needle/seat yet. I just ordered them and am waiting. But I cleaned the one on there now a whole lot so I am just surprised it's still having issues.


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Maybe clean your tank/petcock out and replace the fuel hose.  Or if it doesn't light off in a couple kicks lean the bike over to verify fuel is coming in and out the overflow. If not pick the back end of the bike up and drop it (better than tapping the carb with rock, but you can do that also?.  What happens in storage is the fuel left in the carb evaporate leaving a sticky film of oil on the fuel needle seat and even the float pivot, so it sticks until it's wetted with new fuel. Rest of the day it's fine.



The bike started up fine at the track. First kick.

It didn't start having issues until around 10-15 minutes into riding. So I would think the float needle was plenty wet by that point.

For some reason the float is intermittently sticking. Though I opened the bowl drain plug at the track and tried to spray carb cleaner in there as best I could. It seemed to run ok after that.

I just don't know how this thing would be sticking still after I have cleaned it so much.



How long would you let a bike sit before you drain the bowl? 1 week? 1 month?

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is your overflow hose routed down? floats adjusted within spec?

 

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Was the tube that holds the float needle cleaned out really well as in polished out and inspected for a clean smooth surface?

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Exact same thing happened to me last summer after buying a '13 150. Turned out to be the fuel line. Replaced line and cleaned carb (for the 3rd time!) and been roosting trouble free ever since. Found little bits of greenish (ethanol) black goo and debris everywhere, so if your line is the culprit do a very thorough clean up. Ethanol is not our friend :-)

 

 

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Was the tube that holds the float needle cleaned out really well as in polished out and inspected for a clean smooth surface?



I got it as clean as I could. It didn't seem like it had grime on it. I may try and clean it out again.

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Exact same thing happened to me last summer after buying a '13 150. Turned out to be the fuel line. Replaced line and cleaned carb (for the 3rd time!) and been roosting trouble free ever since. Found little bits of greenish (ethanol) black goo and debris everywhere, so if your line is the culprit do a very thorough clean up. Ethanol is not our friend :-)
 
 



I have not checked the line or cleaned it. Though I think you are right, I should probably check it.

There was old fuel left in the bike as it was stored for 14 months. So it probably has stuff in it.

I went ahead and ordered a new hose. I'm going to pull the carb off when the hose gets here and do a full clean and also put the new float needle in.

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I have not checked the line or cleaned it. Though I think you are right, I should probably check it.

There was old fuel left in the bike as it was stored for 14 months. So it probably has stuff in it.

I went ahead and ordered a new hose. I'm going to pull the carb off when the hose gets here and do a full clean and also put the new float needle in.


Mine was puking gas and shutting off intermittently too. It had been stored for 18 months with ethanol fuel in it. The ethanol had turned the inner part of the fuel line to goo. Fuel tank, carb, and jets needed a little tlc but everything was great after it was all cleaned and fuel line replaced.

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I have not checked the line or cleaned it. Though I think you are right, I should probably check it.

There was old fuel left in the bike as it was stored for 14 months. So it probably has stuff in it.

I went ahead and ordered a new hose. I'm going to pull the carb off when the hose gets here and do a full clean and also put the new float needle in.


Crud from fuel line kept breaking loose and would get behind the needle, prevented it from seating, hence the puke. Everything in the carb turned out to be fine and has been trouble free after the line was replaced. Put about 30 hours on it since.

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4 hours ago, Ernie Allen said:


Crud from fuel line kept breaking loose and would get behind the needle, prevented it from seating, hence the puke. Everything in the carb turned out to be fine and has been trouble free after the line was replaced. Put about 30 hours on it since.

We get 'corn free" fuel here,  so I don't always relate to you guys who have to deal with it.  av gas comes with some caveats,  but in lots of cases is a reasonable alternative if you just can't live with ethanol,  and where I am it is lots cheaper than race fuel.   Turning the Keihins upside down and blowing compressed air into the float needle tube is always a good idea during a cleaning too since the seats don't come out willingly like the mikuni's do.  always reset and they (the keihin) is a good  carburetor.  

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