Dramabeats

How to tell if clutch is slipping?

35 posts in this topic

Post a picture of what the lever looks like, free play and how far the cable adjuster is turned out.

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I installed my extra motion pro cable. This one fits tighter than my OEM

This is with a tiny bit of free play. The problem with this setup is the engagement is too close to the bars. It will hit my fingers.

 

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unnamed (5).jpg

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There are still some turns left on the throw adjustment screw, crank it in some more. See if it helps.

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2 minutes ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

There are still some turns left on the throw adjustment screw, crank it in some more. See if it helps.

The screw that the cable goes through?

Whats the proper adjustment procedure? Should I start with that or the inline adjuster?

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I found this on RSC's website.. sounds like I may need to get the spacer

 

Do I need the spacer for my RSC to function correctly?

No, you do not need the spacer for your RSC to function correctly. The spacer is an option for those that seek a more distant engagement/disengagement point from the handlebar. Easy pull clutch levers move the engagement/disengagement point closer to the handlebar than the stock lever or any OEM replacement lever. It is also an option for those that wish to use the inner of the two cable holes on the lever to maintain ease of pull. The spacer can be used to achieve correct clutch operation when clutch plates may be slightly out of factory specs, or other factors that deter proper clutch operation may be in play.

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1 hour ago, Dramabeats said:

I found this on RSC's website.. sounds like I may need to get the spacer

 

Do I need the spacer for my RSC to function correctly?

No, you do not need the spacer for your RSC to function correctly. The spacer is an option for those that seek a more distant engagement/disengagement point from the handlebar. Easy pull clutch levers move the engagement/disengagement point closer to the handlebar than the stock lever or any OEM replacement lever. It is also an option for those that wish to use the inner of the two cable holes on the lever to maintain ease of pull. The spacer can be used to achieve correct clutch operation when clutch plates may be slightly out of factory specs, or other factors that deter proper clutch operation may be in play.

Easy pull is a key here, I think. This is achieved by increasing travel of the lever. So if start point is the same as for original, the full disengagement will be closer to the bars (or never happen). Spacer could help here.

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I ordered a EBC clutch kit. It wasn't too expensive and it'll eliminate a variable. The basket isn't worn out.

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one more tooth in? I feel like that would give even more slack
Plates and Basket looked fine upon inspection

Out of curiosity, did you measure the plates to see if they were in spec?

Separately, the easy pull levers are simply placing the cable attachment point closer to the lever fulcrum to gain mechanical advantage. The closer it is, the easier it is to pull and the less distance the cable is pulled. This means that you will need more lever travel to achieve the same disengagement as a stock lever. The spacer from rsc will move the whole perch further from the bars (and your fingers). This will allow the further travel required by the easy pull lever.

My asv's have a lever adjustment set screw that allows just the blade to be moved in or out for preference without affecting free play. It is the chrome nut that looks like an acorn nut in this pic.20170321_171440.jpgOn that note, free play is absolutely necessary. Period. Without free play, the entire clutch has pressure being applied just like a clueless driver who cruises with his foot resting on the clutch pedal. This will definitely shorten the life of your clutch.
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55 minutes ago, Backwoods-Bomber said:


Out of curiosity, did you measure the plates to see if they were in spec?

Separately, the easy pull levers are simply placing the cable attachment point closer to the lever fulcrum to gain mechanical advantage. The closer it is, the easier it is to pull and the less distance the cable is pulled. This means that you will need more lever travel to achieve the same disengagement as a stock lever. The spacer from rsc will move the whole perch further from the bars (and your fingers). This will allow the further travel required by the easy pull lever.

My asv's have a lever adjustment set screw that allows just the blade to be moved in or out for preference without affecting free play. It is the chrome nut that looks like an acorn nut in this pic.20170321_171440.jpgOn that note, free play is absolutely necessary. Period. Without free play, the entire clutch has pressure being applied just like a clueless driver who cruises with his foot resting on the clutch pedal. This will definitely shorten the life of your clutch.

I measured and everything was in spec. I layed the plates down on the table and they seemed flat, but its not a perfect surface.

I haven't placed the order yet so maybe I'll hold off until I get the spacer.

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I measured and everything was in spec. I layed the plates down on the table and they seemed flat, but its not a perfect surface.
I haven't placed the order yet so maybe I'll hold off until I get the spacer.

Why did you go away from the asv's?

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1 hour ago, Backwoods-Bomber said:


Why did you go away from the asv's?

Wanted a shorter lever

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On 3/21/2017 at 11:55 PM, Dramabeats said:

My ASV lever did this too but I have a new RSC lever and it also does it. I would like for the clutch engagement point to be as far as possible away from the bar.

To do this, on both levers, you tighten the cable. As the cable tightens it pulls on the arm more and more. If I go too far and nail it in 5th I can definitely hear it slipping. If i back it off a little it seems to stop but its really hard to tell. Any other good methods for adjusting the clutch?

you must have slack between the clutch lever and perch. some people like 3mm others like 1mm. the adjustments on the cable are for setting this, with the perch adjuster set to the middle. this way you will have adjustment as needed, at the perch.

the actuator (on the engine case) should be perpendicular to the cable pull, otherwise you're just increasing our decreasing the lever action (work) against the clutch springs.

 

to verify if you click is slipping or not, park the bike against a wall and shift into fifth. 

give it some throttle and dump the clutch. 

if it stalls it is not slipping. 

if it does not stall, it is slipping. 

 

never ride without slack in the cable, it will burn the clutch pack. 

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