Dramabeats

How to tell if clutch is slipping?

35 posts in this topic

My ASV lever did this too but I have a new RSC lever and it also does it. I would like for the clutch engagement point to be as far as possible away from the bar.

To do this, on both levers, you tighten the cable. As the cable tightens it pulls on the arm more and more. If I go too far and nail it in 5th I can definitely hear it slipping. If i back it off a little it seems to stop but its really hard to tell. Any other good methods for adjusting the clutch?

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When you tighten the cable so that the arm moves in the zone where it would no stay without cable (no free play), it is too much already. That means the clutch is partially disengaged all the time and under heavier loads will slip. As a consequence it will wear faster. How faster I can't tell. Perhaps you are fine with that, then just test it on the move in 5th gear with disengaging the clutch - throttle in - engage clutch. That's the most load you can easily put on it. If it slips after engaging even for a split second, is not good, but again, if you like it, you can use it, just know that it will wear faster. 

If I wanted the same as you I would look for adjustable levers leaving the free play on the cable. i.e. https://www.google.com/webhp?ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#tbm=shop&q=drz+400+adjustable+clutch+lever&* but idk which of them are good or not.

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3 minutes ago, Yanka said:

When you tighten the cable so that the arm moves in the zone where it would no stay without cable (no free play), it is too much already. That means the clutch is partially disengaged all the time and under heavier loads will slip. As a consequence it will wear faster. How faster I can't tell. Perhaps you are fine with that, then just test it on the move in 5th gear with disengaging the clutch - throttle in - engage clutch. That's the most load you can easily put on it. If it slips after engaging even for a split second, is not good, but again, if you like it, you can use it, just know that it will wear faster. 

If I wanted the same as you I would look for adjustable levers leaving the free play on the cable. i.e. https://www.google.com/webhp?ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#tbm=shop&q=drz+400+adjustable+clutch+lever&* but idk which of them are good or not.

If I set it so that there is no tension on the arm then the bike probably wouldn't even shift out of nuetral.

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Any other good methods for adjusting the clutch?


Use a lever and perch with the correct fulcrum and throw for the bike. Don't mess with trying to reposition the arm just to use poorly designed bling parts.

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A slipping clutch is bad. You want your torque at the wheels, not just heating at the clutch plates.

 

A simple test to see if the clutch is slipping it to get into high gear at a near lugging pace. Go to WOT. If the rpm's increase, but the bike isn't accelerating (or if  rpm increase and then decrease as the bike accelerates - like a boat screw cavatating) then you have a slipping clutch. If there is a linear relationship between the rise in rpm and acceleration, then you are good.

 

If your clutch is slipping you can try to correct the problem at the lever. If that doesn't correct the problem you will need a clutch kit.

 

For what it's worth, other then getting going from a stop - I probably only use the clutch 50% of the time when on the dirt.

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6 hours ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

 


Use a lever and perch with the correct fulcrum and throw for the bike. Don't mess with trying to reposition the arm just to use poorly designed bling parts.

 

ASV and RSC are not poorly designed bling parts

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ASV and RSC are not poorly designed bling parts

They are also not universal. Do you have the correct p/n for the application?

If you can't get correct freeplay and clutch actuation then there is a problem. I don't care if the lever cost 100 bucks or not.

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3 minutes ago, ohiodrz400sm said:


They are also not universal. Do you have the correct p/n for the application?

If you can't get correct freeplay and clutch actuation then there is a problem. I don't care if the lever cost 100 bucks or not.

They're both universal. I'm thinking I have the arm too far out.

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If there is 1 thing I've learned in 25 years of riding and trying to fix broken bikes on the trail, if you use a clutch lever / perch from a different bike, it probably isn't going to work as well as the original.

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Posted (edited)

1 minute ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

If there is 1 thing I've learned in 25 years of riding and trying to fix broken bikes on the trail, if you use a clutch lever / perch from a different bike, it probably isn't going to work as well as the original.

There are no bike specific models for these levers

Edited by Dramabeats

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Posted (edited)

5 minutes ago, ohiodrz400sm said:

Screenshot_20170321-140823.png I don't see an application for the DRZ.

You don't? It's literally the third part number in each section. Regardless, I have the F3 Pro.. which is universal.

Edited by Dramabeats

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You don't? It's literally the third part number in each section. Regardless, I have the F3 Pro.. which is universal.

I see the lever only. I assumed you had an entire perch. My bad.

Try ri adjust the lever out further for more lever throw and increase the cable play and see how that feels.

If you can't get it right by adjusting the lever than you might have a stretched cable.

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7 minutes ago, ohiodrz400sm said:


I see the lever only. I assumed you had an entire perch. My bad.

Try ri adjust the lever out further for more lever throw and increase the cable play and see how that feels.

If you can't get it right by adjusting the lever than you might have a stretched cable.
 

The F3 pro comes with a perch.

However, I'm no longer using this lever.

The RSC has different holes for the cable end. So I'm messing with that right now. After that i'll try the clutch arm. It looks one tooth off.

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The F3 pro comes with a perch.

However, I'm no longer using this lever.

The RSC has different holes for the cable end. So I'm messing with that right now. After that i'll try the clutch arm. It looks one tooth off.

Try the hole furthest out. It'll give you more pull.IMG_20170321_143947047.jpg

This is a clutch arm that has never been off, so I know the position is right.

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I moved the clutch arm to this position. This gave me a LOT of slack. I had to basically run the adjusters full tight. I set it so that it has a little play before it starts to act on the arm.

However, it does not disengage enough. Put the bike in gear and it takes off. The ASV did this too. I never messed with the stock clutch lever so I don't know if it did it too.

The cable is pretty new

unnamed (3).jpg

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I moved the clutch arm to this position. This gave me a LOT of slack. I had to basically run the adjusters full tight. I set it so that it has a little play before it starts to act on the arm.
However, it does not disengage enough. Put the bike in gear and it takes off. The ASV did this too. I never messed with the stock clutch lever so I don't know if it did it too.
The cable is pretty new
unnamed (3).jpg

Try one more tooth. If it's not the the lever or cable in could be internal (warped plates, gooves basket)

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My lever pull is suuuuper soft, even compared to some of my friends' DRZs. How important is the free play at the lever? Mine is tightened to just barely past the freeplay (the Zeta lever is kinda floppy in the stock perch already, so I didn't want anymore). 

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24 minutes ago, ohiodrz400sm said:


Try one more tooth. If it's not the the lever or cable in could be internal (warped plates, gooves basket)

one more tooth in? I feel like that would give even more slack

Plates and Basket looked fine upon inspection

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one more tooth in? I feel like that would give even more slack
Plates and Basket looked fine upon inspection

I was thinking out to get ride of the slack. Are you out of adjustment on the lever to give you more throw? Are you on the hole on the outside on the lever?

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