6 posts in this topic

Posted (edited)

First i want to thank everyone for their input into the vast amount of knowledge that can be found on this site. It makes life a bit easier and interesting for people like me.

MY question is about fitting a ltz400(or klx400)cylinder head onto a drz400. I've searched the forum quite a bit and need to be sure a couple of things.

1. I've read that the ltz400 head is a direct fit for the drz but i would need to plug the manual decomp if i'm putting the cylinder head on a drz400s model. How exactly is this done?I'm assuming the ltz400 head has manual decomp

2.If i were to buy a ltz400 head to put onto a drz400s, would it make a difference whether i bought the assembly parts (cams,valves,shims,springs,etc) for the drz or for the ltz?

3.I've read that the klx400 head is a direct fit also. Is there a specific year klx400 that only fits?

Thanks in advance for the responses!

Edited by mrwindta

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I don't know the details but the later FI quad models have a different part number than the previous models.

Also, the quads use a single valve spring as opposed to the bikes dual. As a result they have a lower rev ceiling. They used to swap the valve springs for the DRZ's when building their race motors.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
7 hours ago, mrwindta said:

First i want to thank everyone for their input into the vast amount of knowledge that can be found on this site. It makes life a bit easier and interesting for people like me.

MY question is about fitting a ltz400(or klx400)cylinder head onto a drz400. I've searched the forum quite a bit and need to be sure a couple of things.

1. I've read that the ltz400 head is a direct fit for the drz but i would need to plug the manual decomp if i'm putting the cylinder head on a drz400s model. How exactly is this done?I'm assuming the ltz400 head has manual decomp

2.If i were to buy a ltz400 head to put onto a drz400s, would it make a difference whether i bought the assembly parts (cams,valves,shims,springs,etc) for the drz or for the ltz?

3.I've read that the klx400 head is a direct fit also. Is there a specific year klx400 that only fits?

Thanks in advance for the responses!

So may I ask why you want to put an LTZ400 head on? Are you getting one for cheap, or have a friend who will give you one? You don't sound like a wrencher so why open a can of worms? Buy something made for either the KLX400 or DRZ400.....pretty much any year. :thumbsup:

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The LTZ didn't have a manual decomp so no need to plug. For putting on an S model , just bolt it on and go , but as said valve springs are single spring, but if you don't run it at the rev limiter it'll work fine but the duals are better for for highway use , there is a reason Suzuki changed them. If you have a good LTZ head for cheap I'd go for it and change the springs. Problem is then how good are the valves and seats , always good idea to do the seats and put better valves in while the head is off.

 

.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, jjktmrider said:

The LTZ didn't have a manual decomp so no need to plug. For putting on an S model , just bolt it on and go , but as said valve springs are single spring, but if you don't run it at the rev limiter it'll work fine but the duals are better for for highway use , there is a reason Suzuki changed them. If you have a good LTZ head for cheap I'd go for it and change the springs. Problem is then how good are the valves and seats , always good idea to do the seats and put better valves in while the head is off.

 

.

Thanks, that pretty much answers my questions.

1 hour ago, Signman606 said:

So may I ask why you want to put an LTZ400 head on? Are you getting one for cheap, or have a friend who will give you one? You don't sound like a wrencher so why open a can of worms? Buy something made for either the KLX400 or DRZ400.....pretty much any year. :thumbsup:

I started rebuilding a drz seized bottom end that i've been having for a while and i need to buy a head for it.So i'm just sorting through my options before i start spending. This is actually the first time i've attempted wrenching on a bike engine.

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah .. the smart option is to fit new valve gear on a used head , regardless what the previous owner tells you .

having the seats re cut only helps performance. 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now

  • Similar Content

    • By Josh006
      Hey guys really need some advice. I parked my bike in the garage the other day running just fine, but today when I went to hop on it it would not start. It turns over like a top, but won't even try to start. 
      List of things I have tried.
      i removed the spark plug and replaced it. Also made sure I had spark.
      i tried spraying starter fluid inside carb with no result. 
      I removed both the clutch and kickstand safety. 
      I also just tried roll starting it. It was turning over but once again did not even try to start up.
      please help I do not know what else to try or check thanks!
    • By frozenpepper70
      Today I blew/ lost a head screw on my new-to-me KTM 150 XC two stroke. The bike runs, no odd noises, but lacks compression. My friend and I ran a compression test after the ride. It read around 100-95 pounds. However, when my friend and I did this test, we did not replace to screws or torque them to spec, as one head bolt was lost. Could our reading be off? The P/O claimed a new top end... 
       
      Thanks! 
    • By dmbowers98
      My friend bought this 2012 TE310 with 3500 miles on it. It looked to be in good condition when I went with him to check it out, he got it home and has done about 100 miles on it running perfect and all of a sudden it quit when going down the highway. It would still start when he pulled over, but was making an aweful sound. Im not too familiar with huskys, so all I had checked was the oil when we got home to see if there were any shavings or anything in it. It was pretty low on oil but has nothing in it. By the sound of this video could someone point me in the right direction to what to check next. We are done for the night and I figured I could hopefully get some insight overnight on here. 
       
    • By bofar
      I just bought a 1982 XL500R to restore (famous first words). I've got it all in pieces now, top end apart, and I found an unexpected issue (famous last words).
      The camshaft is significantly worn down and there is a bunch of metal buildup on the cylinder head journals where the end of the camshaft sits. Am I SOL or is this something a machine shop can fix? I fully expect to have to get a new camshaft, but the cylinder head/valves are a bit more expensive and harder to track down so I'm hoping its salvageable. It looks to mee like the metal has built on the journals up from the camshaft, not worn down the journals so I'm hoping that's a good thing. 
       
      Thanks for the help!





    • By Ksanete
      WTB White dr-z400s or sm headlight shroud

      Located in US