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DRZ400S Free Power Mod


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Ahh , the LED is a bulb not one of those light bars or auxiliary types , I was just wondering if the light was shorting out internally and draining all the extra juice thus it would appear the stator isn't putting out enough. That was all , just wanting to make sure , not often something fails at the exact time another component was changed in that circuit .

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Just now, jjktmrider said:

Ahh , the LED is a bulb not one of those light bars or auxiliary types , I was just wondering if the light was shorting out internally and draining all the extra juice thus it would appear the stator isn't putting out enough. That was all , just wanting to make sure , not often something fails at the exact time another component was changed in that circuit .

Its not actually a LED bulb. Its a Philips H4 Blue Vision. I think I have riden 4 times with the stock headlight. So maybe the stator was bad six months ago. Would replacing be better than servicing it with warranty?

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In your first post you said you installed an LED lightbar , now that's on top of the stock headlight or instead of ? The Phillips bulb if not an LED will probably be drawing more than the stock halogen and if your also running an LED bar your juice is getting up there . Also is this bike new ? or 2017, 2016, model ect.. if it's new I find it unlikely the stator is bad , but as always there are chances some will go bad so early.  I'd like to see what your numbers are with just the oem bulb (known draw) and nothing else aftermarket . I saw on another site and how I'd always checked stators on my Yamahas is to take the 3 wires from the stator (unplugged from the harness)and check resistance between each set of 2 , all three measurements should be very close to each other ,1-2ohms(from another site specs).

It's also likely I'm having a brain fart and thinking backwards at the moment :goofy:

.

Edited by jjktmrider
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FAQ has a troubleshooting guide for checking the stator. Most of that has been repeated in this post. Reading the FAQ will probably clarify any questions.  I only know that the original poster has posted as test results.  If the test results are valid, the stator is bad. If the test results are in error, then I can't help.

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8 minutes ago, Noble said:

FAQ has a troubleshooting guide for checking the stator. Most of that has been repeated in this post. Reading the FAQ will probably clarify any questions.  I only know that the original poster has posted as test results.  If the test results are valid, the stator is bad. If the test results are in error, then I can't help.

I did what you said inthat post. And yes I have read the FAQ. The LED bar is 50 watts. Ill see if i can test that. Do you maybe know how to?

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LEDs either illuminate or they don't.  Some LEDs have an internal rectifier so they are not polarity sensitive.  Connect the LED to a 12 volt battery - if it lights regardless off with wire you put to positive, it has an internal rectifier. If it light with wire one way and not the other it has no internal rectifier.  To measure the power draw  - connect an amp meter in series with the LED.  Power in watts is volts times amps.  So just 12 volts times measured current in amps is the wattage.  If the LED is 50 watts, your meter will read about 4 amps current draw

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  • 2 weeks later...

I've added oil, motor didn't start. Thought it was the spark plug, changed plug but still no spark. When I turn on ignition I hear the ECU buzzing. Is this normal? And does anyone else have any clues?

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16 hours ago, jjktmrider said:

If it's an Electrosport  stator I've heard of many of those being wired backward or at least the wire color is backward , I think that was often in the DR650's .

 

 

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I believe it is an Electrosport, how do I check this? Would I have to cut the wires?

16 hours ago, Noble said:

By ECU you mean the ignition control box?  It is all sold state, never heard of one that buzzed. What did you use for a replacement stator?

Yeah the unit under the seat, it makes a buzzing noise only when I listen close to it. I think if I installed the seat I wouldn't be able to hear it.. 

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All stators have 2 pairs of wires gong to the smaller plug to the CDI box (ECU). One pair is black and white, the other pair is blue and green. Not sure how it tis done but the wires can be removed frm the connector and exchanged position. There are 4 possible combinations.  Recored what you do.  Usually changing the blue and green wires is the answer.  I have heard sometimes both the blue/green pair and the black/white pair need to be changed.  Do not intermix the black/white blue/green.  Just deal with 1 pair at a time.

There is an oscillator in the CDI but it is solid state so I'm surprised it makes any noise.  

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11 minutes ago, Noble said:

All stators have 2 pairs of wires gong to the smaller plug to the CDI box (ECU). One pair is black and white, the other pair is blue and green. Not sure how it tis done but the wires can be removed frm the connector and exchanged position. There are 4 possible combinations.  Recored what you do.  Usually changing the blue and green wires is the answer.  I have heard sometimes both the blue/green pair and the black/white pair need to be changed.  Do not intermix the black/white blue/green.  Just deal with 1 pair at a time.

There is an oscillator in the CDI but it is solid state so I'm surprised it makes any noise.  

I'll be doing this at the side that goes to the CDI/ECU right? Not the wire going into the stator?

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I don't understand the question.  There are 2 set of wires from the stator that each terminate in a plug. 1 plug goes to the RR, the othr plug goes to the ignition control (CDI/ECU).  You are dealing with the connector that goes to the CDI/ECU.  You can't do anything with the wires at the stator, they are all permanently connected.

Getting the wires out of the plug is fairly simple.  I just did it.  There is a yellow (yellow on mine, could be a different color on yours) retainer in the center of the connector.  It will pry out with a small screw driver. Now you can reach in with a very small tool next to the terminal and release a plactic clip, the wire with the terminal will now slide out the back off the connector shell.

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18 hours ago, Noble said:

I don't understand the question.  There are 2 set of wires from the stator that each terminate in a plug. 1 plug goes to the RR, the othr plug goes to the ignition control (CDI/ECU).  You are dealing with the connector that goes to the CDI/ECU.  You can't do anything with the wires at the stator, they are all permanently connected.

Getting the wires out of the plug is fairly simple.  I just did it.  There is a yellow (yellow on mine, could be a different color on yours) retainer in the center of the connector.  It will pry out with a small screw driver. Now you can reach in with a very small tool next to the terminal and release a plactic clip, the wire with the terminal will now slide out the back off the connector shell.

I'll be doing this today, hope it works! Thanks in advance Noble

Edit: I've changed the connectors in the same way the old one was. Didn't work, still no spark from the spark plug. Will be trying the other combo's.

Edit: I've switched green and blue, and now the black and white and I get a spark. I reinstalled the gas tank and all but not if I let my bike idle it sounds like it skips a beat when idling?

 

Edit: I've riden it and it has lost a lot of power, I also notice it backfiring when letting go off throttle, a buddy of mine says it's the starter, maybe it's not in place correctly, is this possible?

Edited by arpuS
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  • 4 weeks later...
On 9-4-2017 at 3:56 PM, Noble said:

NO.  The backfire is not the starter or stator.  There are no adjustments.  If it runs, it is correct.

I have fixed it, I changed the wires around a little and it worked!

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