HEADS UP!!!

Site upgrade in progress... Core site functions are working, but some non-critical features/functions will be temporarily unavailable while we work to restore them over the next couple of weeks.

Please post any bugs you encounter, but before you do, check to see if it's already listed.

Thanks for your patience while we work to improve the community.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
Striker

clutch lengthening

14 posts in this topic

Just wondering if anyone has any info or has lengthened out their clutch on a 426? Is the clutch pull noticeably easier? Looks fairly simple to do, would appreciate any feedback.

[ April 15, 2002: Message edited by: Striker ]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A few guys have done it, Have you done a search I know there are some posts.

Me I personally dont need to I am a real man. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did the mod on my bike and would say it made about a 20% difference, then added a Works Connection Pro Perch w/ built in decomp. lever and it has a 2stroke like pull now.

Had my local welder make the mod for me, can't even tell it has been cut/welded, think he tig'd it back together.

This mod is a great alterneative to the Raptor lever, which personally I don't like and was cheaper.

[ April 15, 2002: Message edited by: SMP ]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey Dansgarage or SMP, I'm about to yank my clutch push lever tonight and have a question. Do I need to remove the clutch basket to release the push lever? I don't want to force it up or is that what it takes to remove it? I've only removed the cable and retaining bolt. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks, Pazzo.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pazzo,

You only need to remove the clutch plate bolts and pull the plate off and the actuator arm should pull out. There are two peices, one long shaft and a short peice (closest to the plates). Pay attention to how the actuator arm is in the casing right now (small spring position, etc.), I had a hard time figuring out how it was originally in there, but finally figured it out.

Don't forget to use a torque wrench on the clutch plate bolts....they like to break.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

SMP, Thanks for the prompt reply and yes I honor and respect the power of the mighty "TORQUEWRENCH" Once again the TT'ers come through!

Thanks, Pazzo.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've ridden a fellow TT'ers bike (Wyatt) who has done the mod. It is definitely easier clutch pull. It's a no-lose free mod. It'll only cost you if you screw up the arm (but they're only $30 or so).

I will do it also as soon as I can talk him into doing the machine work for me!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have done it to my bike and can't really notice any difference. this seems to be the exception to the rule though. It doesn't look prety but it works. good luck

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The only problem I see with the "lever mod" is that you need to do it to your spare lever and any other lever you buy in the future.

I don't know about everyone else, but I go through atleast 2-3 levers a year.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Im wondering if anyone really knows for sure if the 2001 clutch arm is or is not exactly 5mm longer than the previous models. I have a 2000, my clutch is fairly easy, after lubing the cable correctly with Triflow. That made huge difference itself. Does anybody know about the levers themselves?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You might think of getting a hydrolic clutch. I know it is expensive(~200) but it will last you. You can always transfer it from bike to bike. I believe the KTMs come with it. Next time you are at the track and see a KTM ask them to try out their clutch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just to clarify, someone stated before that the 2001 series clutch actuator is 5mm shorter YES 5MM SHORTER than a 98,99,00. If you own a 2001 and probably a 2002 just buy an early arm and install. No welding cutting etc. If you own a 98, 99, 2000 you need to cut and weld.

I own a 2001 and have installed a borrowed 2000 arm. It does make a difference. I regret having to give it back. I have had a new arm on order since mid March, they are on backorder til sometime in May. Quoted retail is $35.36.

PK

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just to point out-I have a kTm also (hydraulic clutch) the pull on both the 426 and the 250 MXC are identical in force feel. The machining only takes about 15 minutes and is well worth it (I'm talking about modding the lever here). If I ever break the lever, you can bet I'll have the replacement in the shop for the secondary hole mod. :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0