Shorter springs? / advice

[skorpan777]

Hi

I want to lower the seat hight  on my 2006 250X aprox:3inch   (8cm)

Will  doing it the proper way with spacers internally in the fork and shock 

 

 

So my question is is there shorter springs available?

I dont want to cut springs because the fitment isent good then 

 

Its for my wife she is 

156cm /  5.11 feet

50kg     /   110 lbs

and a firs time rider

 

 

Any suggestion on spring rates and lenghts    or any advice would help.

 

Cheers from Sweden

available

[jasongind]

I'd shave the seat and leave the suspension alone with the exception of setting it for her weight obviously.

Edited January 26, 2017 by jasongind

[Chuck.]

I lowered mine 1 1/2". At the rear I used a Kouba link. For the forks I added a spacer to limit rebound and relocated the spring perches so I could use stock length springs.

 

Beyond that you will need to do other things like shave the seat and/or reduce spring preload.

 

Any lowering of the bike will reduce ground clearance which, depending on where you ride, can cause issues; get a good skid plate and linkage protection.

 

A better alternative might be a bike like the CRF230F, or 93-02 XR200R.

Edited January 26, 2017 by Chuck.

[Jon Heron]

Has she tried it as is?

I ask cause I am a fat old man at 5'6" and I ride my 07 250x stock seat and suspension. 

I can touch with both tiptoes so she should be almost flat footed at 5'11" no?

Cheers,

Jon

[mlatour]

For clarification,

156cm is 5.11 feet simply converted in decimal (OP is from Sweden)

but more commonly referred to as 5'1" (feet/inches) in north american 'Imperial' measuring lingo

so indeed a bit short for a standard height CRF250X.

 

OP, you probably want to get her started with minimal investment since you already have a bike

but due to her petite stature I doubt even lowered she will ever feel confident enough with the weight and bulk of a 250X,

it even risks scaring her away from the sport.

 

I think the money spent trying to lower your bike would be better invested in a 'learner bike' better suited for her,

riding something shorter & lighter would no doubt be less intimidating and have her progress much easier.

Edited January 27, 2017 by mlatour

[Chuck.]

My wife is 5' 4" and 110lbs, she started on a Honda TL125 and a Triumph 200 Tiger Cub, then a Suzuki DR100. She really liked the DR100.

[skorpan777]

Has she tried it as is?

I ask cause I am a fat old man at 5'6" and I ride my 07 250x stock seat and suspension.

I can touch with both tiptoes so she should be almost flat footed at 5'11" no?

Cheers,

Jon

Yes she can toch on one side and she isent comfortable with that.

I've done the poor man mods with seat an raising forks and adjusted the preload,

But still to high.

I want to put lowering spacers in front and rear so when she gets the bike she wants.

The only concern is have is if I have to shorten the spring, I've heard pexpletive say just to cut but the fitment where you cut the spring is so bad it will scrape the inside of the fork and in rear it will get like it's twisted and that's is not good.

Y

Edited January 27, 2017 by skorpan777

[skorpan777]

My wife is 5' 4" and 110lbs, she started on a Honda TL125 and a Triumph 200 Tiger Cub, then a Suzuki DR100. She really liked the DR100.

I hear you but these bikes we dont have in Sweden,now I bought this so have fix what I have

Edited January 27, 2017 by skorpan777

[skorpan777]

For clarification,

156cm is 5.11 feet simply converted in decimal (OP is from Sweden)

but more commonly referred to as 5'1" (feet/inches) in north american 'Imperial' measuring lingo

so indeed a bit short for a standard height CRF250X.

OP, you probably want to get her started with minimal investment since you already have a bike

but due to her petite stature I doubt even lowered she will ever feel confident enough with the weight and bulk of a 250X,

it even risks scaring her away from the sport.

I think the money spent trying to lower your bike would be better invested in a 'learner bike' better suited for her,

riding something shorter & lighter would no doubt be less intimidating and have her progress much easier.

She can drive it but turning is the problem when it feels to high.

I've done some shaving in the seat and raise the fork and adjusted the preload to max but the bike gets unstable like that. So I have to do it the right way.

I am going to put a recluse in to.

But she have driven the bike for about 1 hour and she liked it

But if all this gets to complicated I have to buy a CRF230L

But it's expensive because I've tried for 6 month before to find a used but there are just no to find, so then I have to start to save for a couple of months to buy a new.... see the problem?

She will never get to drive.

I think if I only get the right height she will get started, when she really know how to drive I just take out the spacers.

Edited January 27, 2017 by skorpan777

[skorpan777]

I lowered mine 1 1/2". At the rear I used a Kouba link. For the forks I added a spacer to limit rebound and relocated the spring perches so I could use stock length springs.

Beyond that you will need to do other things like shave the seat and/or reduce spring preload.

Any lowering of the bike will reduce ground clearance which, depending on where you ride, can cause issues; get a good skid plate and linkage protection.

A better alternative might be a bike like the CRF230F, or 93-02 XR200R.

Here in Sweden it's hard to find these bikes I've tried to find these bike used but couldent, just new ones (crf)

Thats why I ended up with CRF250X 2006

How did you do your relocation of the spring perches?

Milling new groves as much as long as the spacers are?

Edited January 27, 2017 by skorpan777

[Chuck.]

To limit rebound I used a length of PVC water pipe, use a steel washer on one end to prevent crushing the plastic.

Rather than machine a new groove for the spring perch snap ring I used a length of PVC to move the spring perch the same amount as I limited rebound.

[skorpan777]

To limit rebound I used a length of PVC water pipe, use a steel washer on one end to prevent crushing the plastic.

Rather than machine a new groove for the spring perch snap ring I used a length of PVC to move the spring perch the same amount as I limited rebound.

Aha that was smart!

Do you have some pictures?

Edited January 28, 2017 by skorpan777

[Chuck.]

Only pic I could find shows the spacer on the cartridge rod and a new groove for the spring perch.

The spacer for the spring perch moves the spring perch the same amount as the length of the spacer on the cartridge rod.

Consider that the snap ring for the spring perch fits inside a recess at the bottom of the spring perch. 

 

Edited January 28, 2017 by Chuck.

[skorpan777]

Only pic I could find shows the spacer on the cartridge rod and a new groove for the spring perch.

The spacer for the spring perch moves the spring perch the same amount as the length of the spacer on the cartridge rod.

Consider that the snap ring for the spring perch fits inside a recess at the bottom of the spring perch. 

 

📎CRF250X Lowering.jpg

 

Thanks this is very helpful!

[Chuck.]

I should add one more thing to help clarify twin chamber forks. 

 

A typical cartridge fork just replaces the damper rod with a cartridge that function very much like a shock absorber.  The cartridge cylinder and base valve are attached to the slider with the compression clicker at the bottom of the slider.  The piston rod connects to  fork cap and the rebound clicker is in the fork cap. The spring is between the fork cap and the top of the cartridge cylinder.

 

The Showa Twin Chamber forks have the cartridge upside down with the base valve at the fork cap, and the spring and cartridge rod at the bottom. This puts the compression clicker at the fork cap and the rebound clicker on the bottom.

One other important difference is fluid in the cartridge is pressurized to reduce cavitation of the fluid when it flows thru the valving. Pressure is from a spring pushing a piston against the cartridge fluid and is located between the base valve and the fork cap.

 

So taken these forks apart is different than damper rod or typical cartridge forks, I strongly suggest RaceTech's Suspension Bible because it has step by step instructions and pictures for servicing twin chamber forks.

[skorpan777]

Ok thanks for the info