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Nuklhed

Bad Starting Solved!

16 posts in this topic

My 2014 WR450 has always been a bitch to start.  So much so that I'd just stopped using the magic button and kicking it.  Fired right up, no problem.

 

Fed up, I took it to my local bike shop (who is AWESOME).  They checked the usual things, like compression, leak down test, TPS, auto decompression, battery voltage, and finally the starter.  Turns out that with all the work they did (for FREE), they gave me a new lithium battery and a new starter. 

 

The starter was dragging and drawing way too much voltage, causing the voltage to drop too far which wouldn't allow the fuel injection system to work properly.  That's why it always fired up when kicking because there was plenty of voltage for the fuel injection system, but not when using the magic button.

 

Anyway, the problem is solved.  At 100 hours on the bike, it now starts just like it's supposed to--instantly upon hitting the e-start button.

 

Talk about service after sale.  They had the bike for a week, several hundred dollars in parts, and they did it for free.  If you want to know what shop it was, PM me.  After talking to the manager, there are a couple of other bikes they are looking at for the same problem. 

 

 

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Did you starter sound like it was turning over slow? Mine has always been hit and miss with the e start (and lithium battery) but almost always first kick.

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Not having a reference point until now, I can now say it was turning slow.  It turns about 25% faster now.

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Slight update--when I checked the RPM from the dealership, it was about 2650--they had cranked it up.  I turned it back down to about 1850-1900.  It didn't like to start that low, so I set it up to around 2100 and now it's starting up every time. 

 

All of this is post-starter and battery replacement.

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Spirit walker,

I'm not sure.  Did you find this out by hooking up the tuner?  I have one, and can do it.  Let me know that's what you did and I'll do it, too.  What does IIRC stand for?

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Interesting! Is the starter a different part number from original? Which model battery did you put in please?

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The battery is a WPS Featherweight Li ion battery.

Starting it cold with no choke, the tuner was jumping around between 450 and 750--hard to get a good reading.  Once it ran for 2 minutes, the idle came up from 1800 to about 2200 rpm.  This was with no choke whatsoever.

 

I shut it off and started it again, took a couple of bumps because it wasn't all the way warm.  RPM indicated 450 on the tuner one push of the e-start, but when it started the second push, the RPM was reading 750.

 

Hope this helps.

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I'm guessing, the guys posting here are like me.  Wondering if the starter was defective from the factory, where it just wouldn't turn fast enough.  I was on that other 100 page thread or however long it was, where we got a special FI programmer and made some adjustments.  In addition, I got a good Lithium battery.  Mine starts okay using the e-start, but nothing near as good as my new YZ450FX.  It still baffles me how Yamaha could push the WR out with such poor starting characteristics while using the e-start. 

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I'm guessing, the guys posting here are like me.  Wondering if the starter was defective from the factory, where it just wouldn't turn fast enough.  I was on that other 100 page thread or however long it was, where we got a special FI programmer and made some adjustments.  In addition, I got a good Lithium battery.  Mine starts okay using the e-start, but nothing near as good as my new YZ450FX.  It still baffles me how Yamaha could push the WR out with such poor starting characteristics while using the e-start. 

I have a 2014 WR and have never had any problems with starting. My bike is uncorked with an FMF exhaust and I run one of the Maps posted here, never played with the CO or any of that. And nothing special done. I have only kick started my bike 2 or 3 times in the last 2 years only to make sure it still works. Think it might have been a year and production run dependant issue perhaps due to some part supplier change or something.

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Chaconne, you must have received the 'magic' bike where everything worked as it's supposed to!

 

I found out today that Yamaha (mountain teeth) wouldn't cover the starter.  I got it for cost + 8 bucks for $220.  Still worth it in my opinion.  The RPM is happy at 2200, warmed up.

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I have a 2014 WR and have never had any problems with starting. My bike is uncorked with an FMF exhaust and I run one of the Maps posted here, never played with the CO or any of that. And nothing special done. I have only kick started my bike 2 or 3 times in the last 2 years only to make sure it still works. Think it might have been a year and production run dependant issue perhaps due to some part supplier change or something.

 

Seems the complaints went away, so maybe Yamaha did some factory tweaks for later years and didn't bother to send out any kind of fix notice.  Here's the thread: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/976951-2012-wr450-starting-woes/

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Chaconne, you must have received the 'magic' bike where everything worked as it's supposed to!

 

I found out today that Yamaha (mountain teeth) wouldn't cover the starter.  I got it for cost + 8 bucks for $220.  Still worth it in my opinion.  The RPM is happy at 2200, warmed up.

My guess is that only complaints are typically posted so they have more volume. But my bike still need to be uncorked so it wasn't exactly magic (the dealer did it for free for me) and I did some add-ons including a fan.

 

After the exhaust , remap, and fan I never heard the boiling in the gas tank again either which didn't exactly make me think things were working as supposed to before that...  ;) Just never had problems with starting.  :ride:

Edited by Chaconne

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Spirit walker,

I'm not sure.  Did you find this out by hooking up the tuner?  I have one, and can do it.  Let me know that's what you did and I'll do it, too.  What does IIRC stand for?

 

Yes, you can hook up the GYTR tuner and check your rpm.

 

IIRC = if I recall correctly

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Done.  See the post above I made about RPM.

 

I think a larger Li ion battery with more cranking power might be a better option.  Either way, I'll keep this battery until it takes a dump and keep it trickle charged during the winter. 

 

Not going back to a lead acid battery for this bike, ever!

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Sorry for the hijack

I just bought a new 2015 Wr450 and my estart suuuucks. I stalled out on a tricky spot and the daggum thing took 5-7 attempts to start, thinking it was a fluke I shut down a few minutes later on level ground and the same thing happened.

It just doesn't seem to crank as hard has my TTR230.

I'm a newb to this stuff so any suggestions would be appreciated.

Thanks!

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