Trouble adjusting Rekluse

Are you riding a gear high? I find I have to run one gear lower than I would normally run in order to keep the motor spinning and the clutch engaged.

Have you actually measured the installed gap? That's the first thing I'd suggest. Get within the .035" to .040" range and see how it works. If you are going from too much slip to too little slip it seems like you are adjusting the thing way too much in each direction.

Oops.

Edited by CDNSXV

Are you riding a gear high? I find I have to run one gear lower than I would normally run in order to keep the motor spinning and the clutch engaged.

Have you actually measured the installed gap? That's the first thing I'd suggest. Get within the .035" to .040" range and see how it works. If you are going from too much slip to too little slip it seems like you are adjusting the thing way too much in each direction.

I didn't know you can check or need to check the gap in a Core Exp 3.0. I guess that would be the easy yay to see if your disks are too thin and out of spec.

Are you riding a gear high? I find I have to run one gear lower than I would normally run in order to keep the motor spinning and the clutch engaged.

Have you actually measured the installed gap? That's the first thing I'd suggest. Get within the .035" to .040" range and see how it works. If you are going from too much slip to too little slip it seems like you are adjusting the thing way too much in each direction.

 

No I am not going from too much slip to too little slip,  I have gone click by click then gone back.  It is progressive based on the location of the adjuster.  On the tight end of the scale there is insufficient plate contact and the bike does not accelerate with the engine, but the bike will sit still in gear.  As you loosen the adjuster the plates make better contact when engaged however the bike now moves on its own (more than a creep).  Once you get to a point where you have full engagement with the plates, you have no auto clutch action at all.  Again it's progressive not one or the other.  However there is no point on the adjuster where you have both good engagement and the auto clutch feature.   

 

Like I was saying I think you have a different model then I do.  I have a CORE EXP 3.0.  It is adjusted using "Free Play Gain"  I am following the steps laid out by Rekluse.  Since I am not getting feedback in the clutch lever, something is wrong.  

 

Per Rekluse:

 

Installed Gap on z-Start Pro Clutches is the measurement between the pressure plate and the top friction plate. This can be measured with the provided no-go gauges placed 180° (directly across from each other). One gauge should slide in easily and the second gauge should not slide in. Don’t use excessive pressure when inserting the no-go gauges. This can also be checked with two feeler gauges used in the same manner as the no-go gauges. The measurement needs to be 0.030-0.045 inch. (.0762mm – 1.143mm)

The Installed Gap on EXP and Core EXP is measured by checking Free Play Gain at the clutch lever. Whether using the supplied rubber band or your finger, the lever is allowed to move toward the handle bar when the EXP disc is fully expanded by centrifugal force, cause by the rotation of the clutch when you rev the engine. The expanding disc forces the pressure plate toward the clutch cover, introducing a gain in clutch lever free play (AKA slack in a cable or less pressure on the hydraulic system).

Too much Free Play Gain = Too small of an installed gap

Too little Free Play Gain = Too large of an installed gap

No I am not going from too much slip to too little slip,  I have gone click by click then gone back.  It is progressive based on the location of the adjuster.  On the tight end of the scale there is insufficient plate contact and the bike does not accelerate with the engine, but the bike will sit still in gear.  As you loosen the adjuster the plates make better contact when engaged however the bike now moves on its own (more than a creep).  Once you get to a point where you have full engagement with the plates, you have no auto clutch action at all.  Again it's progressive not one or the other.  However there is no point on the adjuster where you have both good engagement and the auto clutch feature.   

 

Like I was saying I think you have a different model then I do.  I have a CORE EXP 3.0.  It is adjusted using "Free Play Gain"  I am following the steps laid out by Rekluse.  Since I am not getting feedback in the clutch lever, something is wrong.  

 

Per Rekluse:

 

Installed Gap on z-Start Pro Clutches is the measurement between the pressure plate and the top friction plate. This can be measured with the provided no-go gauges placed 180° (directly across from each other). One gauge should slide in easily and the second gauge should not slide in. Don’t use excessive pressure when inserting the no-go gauges. This can also be checked with two feeler gauges used in the same manner as the no-go gauges. The measurement needs to be 0.030-0.045 inch. (.0762mm – 1.143mm)

The Installed Gap on EXP and Core EXP is measured by checking Free Play Gain at the clutch lever. Whether using the supplied rubber band or your finger, the lever is allowed to move toward the handle bar when the EXP disc is fully expanded by centrifugal force, cause by the rotation of the clutch when you rev the engine. The expanding disc forces the pressure plate toward the clutch cover, introducing a gain in clutch lever free play (AKA slack in a cable or less pressure on the hydraulic system).

Too much Free Play Gain = Too small of an installed gap

Too little Free Play Gain = Too large of an installed gap

Have you called Rekluse? What did they say?

If not you should. They have great customer support.

Have you called Rekluse? What did they say?

If not you should. They have great customer support.

 

 

Have you called Rekluse? What did they say?

If not you should. They have great customer support

 

I did! Yes they are very good.  They figure the steals may be warped probably from riding it with improper free play gain.  Since when I got this bike from the previous owner the clutch was out of adjustment there is a good chance he was riding it out of adjustment.  I am not sure why it worked well for me all summer but anyways he gave me some things to check.

 

I will post some pics when I have it apart.  

I didn't know you can check or need to check the gap in a Core Exp 3.0. I guess that would be the easy yay to see if your disks are too thin and out of spec.

 

The installed gap has nada to do with the disk thickness.  The installed gap is adjusted by way of the rekluse centre nut.

No I am not going from too much slip to too little slip,  I have gone click by click then gone back.  It is progressive based on the location of the adjuster.  On the tight end of the scale there is insufficient plate contact and the bike does not accelerate with the engine, but the bike will sit still in gear.  As you loosen the adjuster the plates make better contact when engaged however the bike now moves on its own (more than a creep).  Once you get to a point where you have full engagement with the plates, you have no auto clutch action at all.  Again it's progressive not one or the other.  However there is no point on the adjuster where you have both good engagement and the auto clutch feature.   

 

Like I was saying I think you have a different model then I do.  I have a CORE EXP 3.0.  It is adjusted using "Free Play Gain"  I am following the steps laid out by Rekluse.  Since I am not getting feedback in the clutch lever, something is wrong.  

 

Per Rekluse:

 

Installed Gap on z-Start Pro Clutches is the measurement between the pressure plate and the top friction plate. This can be measured with the provided no-go gauges placed 180° (directly across from each other). One gauge should slide in easily and the second gauge should not slide in. Don’t use excessive pressure when inserting the no-go gauges. This can also be checked with two feeler gauges used in the same manner as the no-go gauges. The measurement needs to be 0.030-0.045 inch. (.0762mm – 1.143mm)

The Installed Gap on EXP and Core EXP is measured by checking Free Play Gain at the clutch lever. Whether using the supplied rubber band or your finger, the lever is allowed to move toward the handle bar when the EXP disc is fully expanded by centrifugal force, cause by the rotation of the clutch when you rev the engine. The expanding disc forces the pressure plate toward the clutch cover, introducing a gain in clutch lever free play (AKA slack in a cable or less pressure on the hydraulic system).

Too much Free Play Gain = Too small of an installed gap

Too little Free Play Gain = Too large of an installed gap

In fact I do have a Core EXP 3.0, same as yours.

 

My bike has a motor with a cable clutch but a hydraulic clutch conversion.  In that instance, Free Play Gain at the clutch lever is not possible.  Thus I have no choice but to open up the clutch cover and directly measure the Installed Gap.

 

I think that when the Rekluse is newish, its OK to have a bit of drag in the system at idle until the friction pads etc wear in.  Run the clutch like that for a bit and then remeasure the installed gap.  The only really important thing is that the Rekluse does not slip when riding the bike at normal speeds as that would burn out the friction plates.  I had to adjust my installed gap a couple of times early on but have not seen any wear since then.

 

My Rekluse exhibits a tiny amount of drag at idle but as RPMs rise it engages and locks up properly as it should.  

In fact I do have a Core EXP 3.0, same as yours.

 

My bike has a motor with a cable clutch but a hydraulic clutch conversion.  In that instance, Free Play Gain at the clutch lever is not possible.  Thus I have no choice but to open up the clutch cover and directly measure the Installed Gap.

 

I think that when the Rekluse is newish, its OK to have a bit of drag in the system at idle until the friction pads etc wear in.  Run the clutch like that for a bit and then remeasure the installed gap.  The only really important thing is that the Rekluse does not slip when riding the bike at normal speeds as that would burn out the friction plates.  I had to adjust my installed gap a couple of times early on but have not seen any wear since then.

 

My Rekluse exhibits a tiny amount of drag at idle but as RPMs rise it engages and locks up properly as it should.  

 

Ok thanks for the info. But since I have been all though the adjustment range without getting it to function I now believe something is wrong that and it is not an adjustment issue.  I think the next time that cover comes off it will be to take it apart and check the things that the Rekluse suggested.   

I think the diagnosis of warped steel plates makes a lot of sense.

I think the diagnosis of warped steel plates makes a lot of sense.

Nevermind

Edited by Monk

The cable for the lever should be loose. You should not be checking your install gap USING the feel from the lever.

Completely unhook the cable from the perch, and adjust you install gap like the manual calls for. Who cares where, as long as the procedure is correct (tighten till snug, 1 full turn + 2 clicks). Hook the cable up and adjust accordingly using the "in line" adjuster (has this been checked to make sure it hasn't become loose?). Start bike and check free play gain... If it's too tight, loosen cable all the way, remove a half notch from the "install gap". Too loose? Tighten a half click from install gap...

"However, this time, zero movement in the lever. So I followed the directions and went counter clockwise (unscrewed) the adjuster.....no change. I kept doing this till I was 7 notches looser that the recommended install gap. Still zero movement it the lever. The clutch works like a traditional clutch now so it is obviously too loose, so the lever should be moving excessively when the bike is revved.... yet zero movement."

When the clutch lever is too tight, there is no install gap, when too loose the install gap it top larger hence no lever moment.

Why did you adjust it in the first place? What symptoms presented itself?

Is the tiny ball bearing present for the clutch rod to push against?

Assuming your center adjuster is somewhere near right, how much free play do you have in the lever with the engine revved up to around 4000?  You should see a normal amount, about 3mm, which will increase when you let it idle back.  If you don't have play with the engine run up,  the clutch will slip. 

Sounds like the exp disk is not properly expanding with rpm increase.

Call Rekluse.

Hey guys,  this is a thread from last fall.  Winter came early and I pushed the bike aside and pulled the snowmobile out.  So I finally pulled the bike back out and stared working on it.

When I pulled the cover of the clutch I noticed something I have not notice before.  2 of the weight wedges were stuck in the out position.  I touched them and they jumped back in.  I pulled it off and found that one side of the weights you could push on and they would jump back.  The ones on the other side would stick.  Pulling it apart now to see if I have a broken spring.  

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