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NorCal

Just Purchased A YZ450FX! Need advice with build list

45 posts in this topic

Well after taking a long 6 year Yamaha hiatus, I just purchased a 2016 YZ450FX! My KX450s were treating me well, but I couldn't resist the E-start and wide ratio trans. I'm pretty pumped! So here comes the budget build. The gears in my mind are already turning, but I have a few questions along the way. Looking for some advice. BTW - I ride pretty much every discipline of offroad there is (tight woods, motocross, desert, cross country racing, enduros and occasionally endurocross). I know I can't have a bike that excels at everything but my goal is to make it as all around friendly as possible.

 

Suspension:

Last Yamaha I had came with zero grease in the linkages, swingarm and head bearings from the factory. I always get my suspension revalved/resprung, so I'm not even sure I have the energy to grease the bike up, ride the stock, soft suspension, and then pull it back apart and send to the suspension guy. This will probably be the first thing I do.

 

Exhaust :

I need a spark arrestor... as much as I would like a full FMF /DRD/ProCircuit system, I think money could be spent better otherwise, so I think I'm going to use the DR. D NS-4 sparky and pull the stock muffler apart then re-install with the sparky (nice find for the user who posted that tip).

 

Handlebars:

I will pull my bars from my KX and swap out. I'm hoping my Sunline V1 unbreakable levers on my KX will work with the FX. New ODI grips to follow.

 

Chain/Sprockets/Slider - How good is the OEM stuff? Would it be better to just get a TM Designworks slide and guide and new O-Ring chain now? I've read the stock chain guide and slider is junk but how is the chain? Also, what gearing is everyone running?

 

Oil Question: I was reading the oil capacity was only like .75 liters, which is pretty surprisingly low. How many hours do you run between oil change intervals? On my KX I was changing oil every 5-6 hours and filter every 10-12 hours, which seemed to work fine.

 

Kickstand Question

 

For as much moto as I do, I'd prefer to just take the kickstand off completely. I saw GYTR makes a kickstand elimination kit. What's the problem with just unbolting the kickstand and taking the spring off?

 

Thanks in advance,

Nick

 

 

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The fittings come greased but more can be applied.

Don't be so sure the suspension is soft it's not really. It's supposed to be set up for about a 185 lb. rider.

I put about a quart in mine and dump it in three or four rides.

Pro Moto billet should have a spark arrestor.

Yes you should be able to just un bolt the kickstand.

Edited by stevethe
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The stock chain is typcial

Stretched one full hash mark in the first ride

OEM slider stuff is not junk.

Chain block will bend with direct contact with something. TMD's will not.

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Contact Dr D before buying the spark arrestor, apparently they have a few different sizes.  The one I ended up with is a bit large but can be modified to fit, I'm told there's a smaller one that may be a better fit though.  I can look up the part number of the one I ordered if I remember to do so tonight.

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Contact Dr D before buying the spark arrestor, apparently they have a few different sizes.  The one I ended up with is a bit large but can be modified to fit, I'm told there's a smaller one that may be a better fit though.  I can look up the part number of the one I ordered if I remember to do so tonight.

 

Yeah if you could get me that part number, that would be huge (and would probably save me a headache)! Question for you: How does the S/A attach to the stinger? Is there some sort of bolt?

 

The fittings come greased but more can be applied.

Don't be so sure the suspension is soft it's not really. It's supposed to be set up for about a 185 lb. rider.

I put about a quart in mine and dump it in three or four rides.

Pro Moto billet should have a spark arrestor.

Yes you should be able to just un bolt the kickstand.

 

I may just swap the springs out for now. A buddy of mine said the stock valving is really good.

 

So you put about a quart of oil even tho the manual calls for .75? Is there a blow by tube or something that would release excess oil? Thanks for the info by the way.

 

The stock chain is typcial

Stretched one full hash mark in the first ride

OEM slider stuff is not junk.

Chain block will bend with direct contact with something. TMD's will not.

 

Alright... maybe I'll go a few rides on the stock stuff and eventually get full sprockets and TM Designwork stuff. What gearing are you running? Stock seems about right on paper but would like to know from someone who has some seat time...

 

 

 

Another question I have....  I was doing a search and found the YZ250FX shroud plastic is a little bit different than the 450FX. Is that just the lower scoop that's different? Is the upper identical? Seems like there is a lot more variety to choose from for the 250FX than the 450FX. Any help is appreciated.

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See responses in your quote below.

 

Yeah if you could get me that part number, that would be huge (and would probably save me a headache)! Question for you: How does the S/A attach to the stinger? Is there some sort of bolt?

 

No bolt, just a slip fit.  I'd be worried about a bolt coming loose and doing bad things if it found it's way up the exhaust system.

 

 

So you put about a quart of oil even tho the manual calls for .75? Is there a blow by tube or something that would release excess oil? Thanks for the info by the way.

 

I just added a hair over 3/4 quart then started the bike and checked the sight glass per the manual... oil level was fine so that's where I left it.

 

 

Another question I have....  I was doing a search and found the YZ250FX shroud plastic is a little bit different than the 450FX. Is that just the lower scoop that's different? Is the upper identical? Seems like there is a lot more variety to choose from for the 250FX than the 450FX. Any help is appreciated.

 

450FX has a slightly different/larger shroud to improve air flow supposedly.  You could buy 450F or 250FX lower shrouds and graphics if that's what you're trying to accomplish.

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I went with an fmf core ti i didn't do the full system. The bike makes a (insert adjective) ton of power.

You need radiator braces. After that oil and gas.

I recently put a fan kit on mine, it gets a little hot riding in first gear for long periods.

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I went with an fmf core ti i didn't do the full system. The bike makes a (insert adjective) ton of power.

You need radiator braces. After that oil and gas.

I recently put a fan kit on mine, it gets a little hot riding in first gear for long periods.

 

 

Right on... I have a Tusk 1.6 radiator cap from my Kawi. I'm assuming that will swap right over?

 

I've never really had an issue overheating my bikes in the past, so might wait on the fan until I

boil the thing over.

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See responses in your quote below.

 

Okay... so I'm assuming the 250FX / 450F / 250F / 450FX upper rad. scoops/are all the same?

 

I was thinking of purchasing the Acerbis upper rad scoop because I want to go all white (and keep the

OEM plastics in good shape). Has anyone had any issue with the Acerbis plastic?

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Okay... so I'm assuming the 250FX / 450F / 250F / 450FX upper rad. scoops/are all the same?

 

 

The F and FX shrouds are different, as far as I know.

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I change mine every 8 to 10 hrs. I add .8. You'll find the air filter stays cleaner in a Yamaha. With gearing I went with a 51, helps in tighter stuff. You can do a 52 with stock chain. Get yourself a power turner. I use mine for hours and maps. I also found the suspension stiff, I weight 200 full gear. I went two clicks out on compression and rebound for forks and shock. Helped a ton. Suspension takes a few hours to break in, then it's unbelievable!

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The F and FX shrouds are different, as far as I know.

 

 

Right... I'm gathering the lower shrouds are different, and assuming the uppers are the same.

 

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

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Right... I'm gathering the lower shrouds are different, and assuming the uppers are the same.

 

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

 

Yes the uppers are the same.

 

On the fan kit, I would advise getting one.  But try to install it and some radiator cages before you ride.  I got my radiator cages installed before I rode but had a good tip over in some rocks, enough to bend the radiator cage but I thought the rad was OK.  When I finally got my fan and tried to install it I couldn't because the bolt holes won't line up... rad must have gotten pushed up on the outside in the spill.  These radiators are super fragile IMO.

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Yes the uppers are the same.

 

On the fan kit, I would advise getting one.  But try to install it and some radiator cages before you ride.  I got my radiator cages installed before I rode but had a good tip over in some rocks, enough to bend the radiator cage but I thought the rad was OK.  When I finally got my fan and tried to install it I couldn't because the bolt holes won't line up... rad must have gotten pushed up on the outside in the spill.  These radiators are super fragile IMO.

 

Cool. I've never actually run cages before...always just been braces.

 

Which cages did you go with?

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Gytr braces with the fan on my 250fx. Easy install, everything lined up. Plenty of wrecks later they are still straight. I just use the stock plastic fin protectors for front protection.

I also agree with cowboy, the fan kit definitely gets used. When I'm blasting nasty single track the fan usually always turns on. Never boiled the bike. Granted it never boiled prior to me having it either.

Sorry for the crappy pic but you get the idea.

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1471539391.976684.jpg

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Not that anybody will agree with me, but I did the cages. Made the bike too wide for me, I hated it. You do have to ride more up on this bike. I removed them. I'll take my chances. I do like the fan, definitely comes on in the tighter stuff.

Edited by RMK800
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Cool. I've never actually run cages before...always just been braces.

 

Which cages did you go with?

 

GYTR so they would fit with the fan.  Not real thrilled with them quite honestly.

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The stock chain is typcial

Stretched one full hash mark in the first ride

OEM slider stuff is not junk.

Chain block will bend with direct contact with something. TMD's will not.

 

 

The F and FX shrouds are different, as far as I know.

 

Do you guys know if I need a spring compressor to swap the shock spring? Or will it just slide out?

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Do you guys know if I need a spring compressor to swap the shock spring? Or will it just slide out?

 

No compressor needed.

Spin the lock nut and retaining nut.

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