FatCowKiller

04 wr 450f clutch not disengaging

27 posts in this topic

I've adjust my cable as far as it will go but it seems that when I pull the clutch in when I'm shifting gears that its not completely disengaging from the engine. When I try to stop the bike is still trying to go on me, as soon as I go from neutral to first the bike is already going and even with the weak brakes it has doesn't help stop it sometimes as this is a big safety issue. Also when I switch gears sometimes the shifting lever just wont budge (as I think this is related to the problem). Any advice on what to do? I'm basically broke so any advice to fix this inexpensively would be great.

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Some dragging is normal. Anything other is usually warped metal plates. Not too expensive.

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I've had it about a year and a half and didn't really have a chance to start riding it until now. It wasn't really a problem at first but it's been progressively getting more noticeable

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I am assuming that with the adjustment you made there is no free play in the lever anymore....if there still is, you need find the other adjuster at the other end of the cable and take the slack out.

 

Sounds like warped clutch metal plates, which is typical.

An OEM clutch pack is about $50

I would pull the plates out and inspect them before ordering anything.

 

Has the bike been uncorked and re-jetted to your knowledge?

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No, I do not believe it has been uncorked or rejetted, From the little bit of riding on It I can tell its clogged from the factory. I plan I trying to doing the whole free mod ordeal later in the year as I have very little free time to do this and I've already missed a good portion of the riding season waiting for the proper lights I ordered to come in. The baffle is still in the exhaust so I'm pretty sure it hasn't been uncorked as that probably would have been one of the first things they removed. 

 

The bike does seem to be running quite hot though, I haven't taken any temperature reads on it yet, but I feel like it might be necessary to cut some holes in the airbox soon.

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No, I do not believe it has been uncorked or rejetted, From the little bit of riding on It I can tell its clogged from the factory. I plan I trying to doing the whole free mod ordeal later in the year as I have very little free time to do this and I've already missed a good portion of the riding season waiting for the proper lights I ordered to come in. The baffle is still in the exhaust so I'm pretty sure it hasn't been uncorked as that probably would have been one of the first things they removed. 

 

The bike does seem to be running quite hot though, I haven't taken any temperature reads on it yet, but I feel like it might be necessary to cut some holes in the airbox soon.

 

Do not cut holes in the airbox unless you do all the uncorking and rejetting.

It will just run hotter.

 

The reason I asked about the tuning is because the stock motor runs so hot when plugged up that the clutch can overheat very easily if you are modulating it, causing the plates to warp.

 

The full uncorking can be done for about $50

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ok, For future reference is there any easy way to get the carburetor out? I had one hell of a time checking the valves and don't really look forward to pulling the carb.

 

And is there anything else I can do for my bike to help keep it cool / run better without doing the full uncorking? 

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ok, For future reference is there any easy way to get the carburetor out? I had one hell of a time checking the valves and don't really look forward to pulling the carb.

 

YOU DON'T HAVE TO TAKE IT OUT IF YOU DON'T WANT TO

ON MY LAST WR I NEVER TOOK IT OUT ONCE, AND I RE JETTED IT OVER A DOZEN TIMES...

 

YOU REMOVE ONE SIDE PANEL, THE SEAT, THE TANK THE BACK HALF OF THE PIPE, AND TILT UP THE SUB FRAME AND LOOSEN THE FRONT BOOT AND PULL THE CARB BACK, THEN IT WILL TURN BOTH DIRECTIONS GIVING YOU ENOUGH ACCESS

....BUT ONCE YOU ARE THAT FAR ALONG, PULLING THE CARB OFF IS NOT MUCH HARDER, YOU JUST TAKE OUT THE SHOCK.

 

And is there anything else I can do for my bike to help keep it cool / run better without doing the full uncorking? 

 

NO. YOU MUST RELEASE THE HEAT BY CHANGING THE EXHAUST TIP, OPENING THE AIRBOX, AND JETTING TO MATCH

BILLIONS OF POSTS ON THE SUBJECT

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Sounds like your clutch basket has knotches worn into it from snapping the clutch. This will stop the clutch plates from dis-engaging. Pull the clutch cover and look for wear marks in the clutch basket like shown in pics

9907698.jpg

TangWearMarksLite.png

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I will inspect it when I get a chance to, I also didn't mention it tends to die when switching it into first (say from neutral) after starting it. Thanks for all the good advice, although I pray the clutch basket is ok as they are quite expensive :(

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In a pinch, you can pull the basket, clamp it gear side down in a vice (use soft jaws or a rag to not damage the teeth)

 

Then use a metal file, lay it straight across the basket and file the notches out. Take your time, you may be filling for 45 minutes.

 

You need to use a file longer then the basket, when you lay the file in the basket it should contact two ears on the basket opposite side of each other, this NEEDS to be done to keep the basket true

 

This is just a temporary fix, also check the clutch plates for notching, if there notched pitch them

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Ok, ill try that, if I did intend to replace it in the future do the aluminum racing clutch baskets tend to last longer?

 

-Also at what point is it a must to replace/ fix it? not that I intend to ride the basket until it dies but is there any signs on when I should definitely stop riding?

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Just post some pics of your basket and plates before you start ordering parts. If the basket is notched it will just get worse over time and it will be hard on the gears and shift forks, better to fix it before it wears other parts out.

I would buy a good stock used basket off ebay, and some new clutch plates IF thats the problem. Aftermarket baskets are costly and will take alot more abuse, unless your racing the stock basket is fine.

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OK so I have the clutch opened up the friction plates measure within spec and the basket has faint grooves, not enough to seem significant. Sorry hard to get a good picture.

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Those notches on the basket would stop it from dis-engaging. If your on a budget, file the basket and put it back together.

 

If you can afford it... a new basket, hub, and plates would be the best way to go. OEM basket and hub, ebc clutch plates

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More

 

Completely normal wear

Those notches WILL NOT stop it from disengaging. 

It might be grabby, but even so not very much.

If you think it's grabby you can file the bumps out, but I would leave it alone.

 

It takes very deep notches to hinder with the clutch disengagement, and even then it will alwasy disengage.....

 

9907698.jpg?itok=K7jOS2qQ

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