2007 wr450f keeps blowing headlight bulbs

Riding home today and noticed my headlight wasnt working- both hi and low filaments wete blown. I had one at the house with a blown low beam that i swapped back in- ran the bike for 2 minutes before it popped.

Im gonna start looking for a bare wire. In the harness. Anyone else had this issue before?

Check voltage from regulator as this is no1 suspeect

Should be 12V AC nom. Anything much higher than 14 will result in blowing bulbs

Check it at the bulb holder

I just checked the voltage at the headlight wiring harness and im getting 12.5 @ idle but as high as 21 when the revs go up.

your regulator is toast then

It would appear.. now im deciding weather to do the ground float on the stator and go all dc or just get another oem one.

Will it hurt the bike to ride it as is until new parts come in?

No

The headlight runs off its own ac feed through the regulator from the stator

Its reported that running with no headlight is hard on the stator as the energy it produces has to be dumped as heat if the bulb isnt using it but its ok for a short time

Wouldnt recomend for a long time though

No

The headlight runs off its own ac feed through the regulator from the stator

Its reported that running with no headlight is hard on the stator as the energy it produces has to be dumped as heat if the bulb isnt using it but its ok for a short time

Wouldnt recomend for a long time though

 

Yamaha used to sell these bikes with a headlight switch.   Worked fine, they dropped it to save money.   I have

several 2003 WR450s with headlight switches in the OFF position 99% of the time and the original stators and they

still work fine.

do those earlier bikes run AC direct to the headlight from the stator via the regulator (and hence will only work when the engine is running) or is DC power from the battery?

do those earlier bikes run AC direct to the headlight from the stator via the regulator (and hence will only work when the engine is running) or is DC power from the battery?

 

All carbureted WR450s have the split system of AC for the light, and DC to charge the battery

All carbureted WR450s have the split system of AC for the light, and DC to charge the battery

Anyone know why ?   Seems that most automotive bulbs are for DC and will work for awhile but not sure why the lighting circuit is AC .

 

I went with the Ricky Stator -  stator and recifier kit and have had zero issues other than the lame Moose switch I used to connect the headlight

to the battery . At first it was cool to be able to turn the headlight on w/o the bike running , but some times the switch doesn't work right and I will

randomly go out to the garage and find my headlight on for no apparent reason other than I bumped the switch and it didn't come on till hours later . 

Guess I should replace that switch before it kills another battery .

I just ended up buying another oem rectifier.

Mine had over 8k on it before it went.

I thought about doing a stator mod and going all dc but i know of a few people that have had reliability issues with it so i opted to stay with the oem set up-

Thanks GuyGraham for telling me about this thread, funny that someone else has the same problem. I am also blowing indicators, i will try doing the volt test on the bulbs, I'm new to multi-metres, how do i test it....

Put multi on ac volts, negative on battery, positive on positive lead @ light while revving?

My experience has been that regulators rarely fail (I've never had one go) and that most often the culprit is a bad ground (dozens and dozens). There are not that many ground connections on a bike (three or four) so I simply remove them all, clean and reinstall.

Thanks GuyGraham for telling me about this thread, funny that someone else has the same problem. I am also blowing indicators, i will try doing the volt test on the bulbs, I'm new to multi-metres, how do i test it....

Put multi on ac volts, negative on battery, positive on positive lead @ light while revving?

Yes meter on ac volts

Meter probes on the bulb contacts

Outer contact that touches the bulb body is -ve, and the contacts at the bottom of the bulb holder are +ve but only one is wired in as std

Edited by GuyGraham

I had a regulator go last year on my 2011. Matched the OP's description to a T. Fortunately a member here offered one up for super cheap and it did the trick.

New rectifier fixed it-

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