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Iowatoyotas

04 YZ450F Clutch Won't Engage/Gray/Silver Color in oil

11 posts in this topic

I've had the bike for 6/7 months now and it runs very strong.  I've changed the every 2/3 rides depending, and recently on a ride I rode my clutch hard on some pretty Narls Barkley hills and was able to ride out without noticing anything wrong with the clutch.  So, I went home parked it and it sat for a week and went to go warm it up and the clutch wouldn't disengage.  

Went to the store got a new OEM yamaha clutch and installed it but they didn't have the springs so I said I would do those at a later time.  Torn everything down and installed the new clutch, then again my clutch wouldn't disengage.  Turns out the new clutch just need some persuasion and was able to get it free and moving back and forth properly. 

 

Took it to Ocotillo Wells a couple weeks ago and was noticing that the clutch arm adjustment was all the way out towards the front tire and my buddy with a 02 yz426's who just got done doing his clutch was the exact opposite so the adjustment all the way in towards the back tire.  I also noticed that my lever engagement is just weird and very very short and at the top of the level throw and I can't get it to adjust any different.  

 

The adjustment down at the clutch arm if its not all the way out then the bike wont engage at all.  So after the Ocotillo ride I noticed again I was starting to have silver or gray material in the pan.  So I thought well I still need to do the springs so I went and picked some up and installed still the same thing the same adjustment has to be made.  

 

I still need to do the cable to which I believe could be my culprit for the adjustment but as far as the material in the oil it does make me weary.

 

Really just looking for thoughts and suggestions anything helps sorry this was long it's been a pain for me on this one thanks in advance.  

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Check to see if you might have lost the 10mm ball bearing that goes in between the long and the short clutch push rod.  Common mistake.

 

New clutches can drag a lot until the friction plates harden and glaze a little bit.

 

Also bear in mind that a fresh clutch stacks up deeper because all the plates are thicker.  That makes the pressure plate farther away from the clutch release arm, which means you have to take slack out of the cable to adjust.  As the clutch wears, you have to add slack back in.

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I definitely put the 10mm ball back in.

I had a lot of drag at first that worked its way out.  I was just having issues with the adjustment and when I drained my oil I had more then usually silver flakes.

What position should the clutch release arm be in on a new clutch?

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Did the clutch hub and basket have groves wore in it? If so take a file to it and file the groves out( or buy a new clutch assembly) the clutch plates get hung up on the groves and won't engage or disengage properly

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"Grooves"

 

As to the clutch release arm, the return spring will always take it back to the same spot with the cable off, and with a new clutch, it will swing a little farther toward the cable stop than it did, but not by a large amount.

 

A lot of OEM cables also have a mid-cable adjuster just out from the clutch lever , hidden under a rubber sleeve. 

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Roger I'll check the hidden adjuster the basket looked good but will do another clutch tear down to check it. How many taking off and outing back on should I put this gasket through?

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They're pretty durable. If you don't use sealers on them, you can get 3-4 uses out of them.

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My next question is what kind of condition my clutch is in. I hope my brand new 150 dollar clutch is good still.

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Turns out it was the lever adjustment was way to tight so the lower adjustment lever had to be completely lose. I might have a little clutch material next oil change but it's way better

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