Krannie McKranface

...and so it begins....the lowered peg-quest for the WR/YZFX 450

18 posts in this topic

The goal: to lower the pegs 20mm without moving them forward or back a signifigant amount, and without any out-sourced fabrication, if possible

 

Why?

Because the new gen frames have the peg mounting brackets up 15mm from the old gen frames, even with the newer 5mm lower oem pegs my old knees can't take that extreme bend at the knee.

 

The premise: swap peg mounts right to left (using YZ mounts with no kickstand) and use Fastway lowboy pegs, or modify stock pegs by cutting off the peg pin barrel and relocating it to the TOP of the peg....

 

EG of cutting the stock pegs: the 'barrel' above the peg mounting hole in this peg is normally below it....in this position it is about 10mm lower and 10mm back from stock.

mattdavesbdays001.jpg

 

...or as Fastway explains it:

 

mount_options.gif

 

Photos:

 

Left and right mounts, as normally configured

20160620_154641_zpsym4msra4.jpg

 

..and when one mount is flipped upside down, you can see the peg mounting pin hole drops 10mm

The frame the peg mount have an indexing plug that would need to be modified (cut off the frame, or a hole re-drilled on the mount)

 

20160620_154651_zpsxh0oc990.jpg

 

 

stock peg, stock left mount, in normal position

20160620_154457_zps1f67tfdf.jpg

20160620_154444_zps1bo8ox93.jpg

 

 

stock peg, stock right mount positioned upside down, peg in normal position : 10mm drop, but 10 mm forward

20160620_154751_zpsig6bmulb.jpg

 

20160620_155013_zpsq5yopvqt.jpg

 

 

 

stock peg, stock right mount postioned upside down, left peg in upside down position (to simulate Fastway pegs, or modified stock pegs) = 20mm drop, and 4mm forward

 

20160620_155518_zpshp6qy23s.jpg

 

20160620_155336_zpssm4ow6wm.jpg

 

 

 

Synopsis:

 

  • Right and left pegs modified with peg pin barrel cut and relocated to top (or use fastway lowboy pegs) drops the pegs down 10mm and back 10mm
  • Right and left foot peg mounts swapped left to right, drops the pegs 10mm, but also pushes the pegs forward about 14mm
  • Doing both gets me 20mm of drop and about 4mm of forward location 
  • I will have to get the YZ mounts and fix the indexing to verify actual results, but it looks like it might work out!
Edited by KRANNIE
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Good progress on the pegs...I installed fastway pegs in the lowboy position on my 2012. Had to build up weld material and mill it down for the peg stops. Didn't consider swapping mounts left to right....looking forward to your results.

Also looking forward to seeing which way you go with the fuel tank. The Acerbis option looks interesting. Would really like to see some photos of the relocated components necessary to facilitate the installation.

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Good progress on the pegs...I installed fastway pegs in the lowboy position on my 2012. Had to build up weld material and mill it down for the peg stops. Didn't consider swapping mounts left to right....looking forward to your results.

Also looking forward to seeing which way you go with the fuel tank. The Acerbis option looks interesting. Would really like to see some photos of the relocated components necessary to facilitate the installation.

 

The FX does not require as much part relocation as the WR, but still some.

 

IMS supposedly has a 2.9 that requires no mods...

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Yeah, but isn't that 2.9 the one that uses the rad shrouds as part of the tank? If so, not a fan...at all!

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Yeah, but isn't that 2.9 the one that uses the rad shrouds as part of the tank? If so, not a fan...at all!

 

It's my understanding that the YZ250FX tank is the one to use.

 

........or the Acerbis part # 2374220001 tank, as in the other thread(s)........

Edited by KRANNIE

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The other peg lowering option is to modify the stock brackets.

 

By lower the brackets 20mm, you can't just drill new holes.

 

The lower hole ends up right where the peg bracket is, and the other mounting hole is 15mm above 

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OK, most of the parts are in, and I can now confirm or deny the premise with some more careful (not precision!) measuring.

 

Stock pegs, Stock location = 0 mm down, and 0 mm front to back

 

Stock pegs, Low boy location = 10mm down, and 7 mm back from stock

 

Stock pegs, Low boy location, using reversed peg bracket =  17mm down, and 4 mm forward from stock

 

 

Stock bracket and position:

20160628_194109_zpsgrxpkrnm.jpg

 

Stock bracket, low boy position;

 

20160628_194032_zpsjmm8yezc.jpg

 

Reversed right side bracket, low boy position:

 

20160628_194239_zps697drk8m.jpg

 

I will need to mill a hole in a new place for the frame indexing post:

 

20160628_160156_zpshmq8odod.jpg

 

20160628_194705_zpsf1z4aiof.jpg

 

If the pegs turn out to be too low (doubt it !), or too far foward (only 4mm more then stock?) then I will make new brackets themselves from scratch.

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By dropping pegs down and back, won't the shift lever and rear brake lever then be farther up and forward? Is 20mm insignificant, or will it be noticeable that the controls are further out?

By dropping pegs down and back, won't the shift lever and rear brake lever then be farther up and forward? Is 20mm insignificant, or will it be noticeable that the controls are further out?

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By dropping pegs down and back, won't the shift lever and rear brake lever then be farther up and forward? Is 20mm insignificant, or will it be noticeable that the controls are further out?

 

 

Yep, this is true. Though if you need to lower the pegs due to rider height then chances are you have big feet too so it becomes less of an issue!

 

I'm looking at lowering my pegs too (2016 WR450F) but ive done it by chopping the barrel off and welding a new one on above the peg (still need to extend the limit stops though).

 

20160416_163426_zpsihoyaudk.jpg

 

If gear lever and rear brake lever height are a problem I'm going to re-rivet the rear rake pedal tip a little further back down the arm (and lower the pedal height on the adjuster) and i have a Zeta revolving tip gear lever that you can change the tip offset and rotate for ideal positioning.

 

http://zeta-racing.com/pedal/shift_revolver/index.html

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I did this (reversed footpeg mounts) on my WR.  It works great.

 

Note that footpeg "stops" aren't going to hit the stops on the mount anymore.   They now hit the mounting bolt.   It works anyway.  IIRC I shimmed the bolt with a couple washers to get the right peg angle.

 

FWIW, I use "Airtime Billet CNC Wide Fat Footpegs Yamaha YZ 1999-2015 from eBay on my bikes.   Much much better than stock.  Same weight as YZ pegs.  Half the weight of WR pegs.  I've bent WR and YZ pegs, but never these pegs. 

 

I've been thinking of machining the Airtime pegs to use rearset collets like the Fastway , but haven't found time to do it yet.

 

Congrats on the new bike.

Edited by MidlifeCrisisGuy

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By dropping pegs down and back, won't the shift lever and rear brake lever then be farther up and forward? Is 20mm insignificant, or will it be noticeable that the controls are further out?

By dropping pegs down and back, won't the shift lever and rear brake lever then be farther up and forward? Is 20mm insignificant, or will it be noticeable that the controls are further out?

 

Yes.

So you adjust them, or get longer/shorter ones.

 

I don't usually have issues with the shifter, but I alsway do with the brake, and it will be modified as well.

 

20mm is a lot

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Everything fits

A simple lock washer behind the bottom mounting bolt allows the peg to sit flat.

Not able to even sit on it yet, as suspension is not ready yet.

 

So far so good

 

Next will be the brake pedal mod to get the tip lower.

You can't lower the lever it self low enough as it hits stuff even at only a 5/8" drop (as previously discoverd)

 

20160704_2017431_zpsvcfpykgl.jpg

 

20160704_2021351_zpsodsxqhi6.jpg

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You cut the footpeg sleeve and moved it from the bottom to the top of the peg ?   It will be interesting to see if the shortened sleeve remaining on the footpeg is strong enough to last or if it will crack or wear very quickly.    Kudos to you for trying to do this.   I'll be watching your results.

 

I was going to do this with the Airtime pegs which are made of aluminum.   I was going to cut the sleeve from one side and TIG it to the other side of the peg, thus trying to retain the factory stress and load bearing area.   Reducing the sleeve like you have done doubles the stress in the bore and approximately halves the load bearing area.

 

Keep us posted.

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You cut the footpeg sleeve and moved it from the bottom to the top of the peg ?   It will be interesting to see if the shortened sleeve remaining on the footpeg is strong enough to last or if it will crack or wear very quickly.    Kudos to you for trying to do this.   I'll be watching your results.

 

I was going to do this with the Airtime pegs which are made of aluminum.   I was going to cut the sleeve from one side and TIG it to the other side of the peg, thus trying to retain the factory stress and load bearing area.   Reducing the sleeve like you have done doubles the stress in the bore and approximately halves the load bearing area.

 

Keep us posted.

 

Moving the sleeve/collar from top to bottom is an old trick.

You cut the entire collar off, leaving nothing on the peg.

I see no reason to weld it in place

All of the pressure is on the pin and the peg, and no longer on the collar.

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OK, next is the brake pedal.

With the pegs lowered, it will obviously too high above the peg to be usable.

So, the trick is to remove the harware attached to the pedal and mc, and remove the lock nut.

Then, cut off 6mm of thread from the plunger using a dremmel cutoff wheel , and using plumbers sealing tape instead of the lock nut, to keep the clevis from spinning and un-adjusting itself.

 

Now the pedal drops more than far enough but and hits the  peg bracket, because I have it adjusted way to low, which is fine for now.

 

20160706_130001_zpsbtbsaigt.jpg

 

20160706_130908_zpsmfbqqahs.jpg20160706_131743_zpsqtvmtslj.jpg

Edited by KRANNIE

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Moving the sleeve/collar from top to bottom is an old trick.

You cut the entire collar off, leaving nothing on the peg.

I see no reason to weld it in place

All of the pressure is on the pin and the peg, and no longer on the collar.

 

If you did an FE analysis, you'd see that the stress in the footpeg pin bore is way higher with the collar removed.  There is a reason that Yamaha designed the footpegs with the collar that way.  The collar does more than just hold the spring.

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If you did an FE analysis, you'd see that the stress in the footpeg pin bore is way higher with the collar removed.  There is a reason that Yamaha designed the footpegs with the collar that way.  The collar does more than just hold the spring.

 

yup

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