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stevethe

2016 YZ450f Acerbis 2.9 gal tank on a FX or WR

42 posts in this topic

Credit given to T.T. member Childers who is the first to take a Acerbis YZ tank and put it on a 2016 WR450. It can be found here towards the bottom. Hopefully he may chime in at some point as he is busy at work. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1177647-tt-official-2016-wr450f-mods/page-3

Also here http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1177647-tt-official-2016-wr450f-mods/

Edited by stevethe

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I bought a used Acerbis tank from a 2014 YZ450f so I will be trying to put one on as well. I am hoping the normal smaller lithium replacement batteries fit where Childers put his above the rear section of tank.

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A little update, the space between the seat and the tank looks very tight for a regular Shorai lithium battery. You would need to melt or cut the seat pan to make it fit. However I found this Anti Gravity battery that looks perfect. It is a 4 cell however it looks to have the same power as a stocker. http://shop.antigravitybatteries.com/antigravity-batteries-ag401/

 

Good news is once you strip all the brackets and take the electronics off the back fender they may all fit under the seat. Hopefully they will go between the back fender to the top of the seat. If this happens the large 2.9 Acerbis tank into the WR or FX will be a easy shoe in. :thumbsup:

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Take a few pictures before you put that all together. I'm curious about this.

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Here are a few pictures. The first picture shows where all the electronics go. The next picture shows where the starter relay goes. The last picture shows the room for the 4 cell Anti Gravity battery would go under the seat. They make aftermarket brackets for the battery by the way.

image_zpswawer6kc.jpeg

image_zpsqywoyvoa.jpeg

image_zpssomi6fvy.jpg

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Just noticed that funny white ceramic looking switch in the first photo. It says up on one side so that must be the tip over switch and up means put it in the up position.

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Hey Gents,

 

Yep Steve the white item with the 2 holes for the mount is a tip over switch very important to set that up right the bike will stark run for 5 seconds flash the engine light and cut out can be a trap if not careful lucky i clicked right away i have this mounted to the rocker cover nice and flat and it is fine.

 

With the electrics i stripped the harness right back to the join for the CDI and moved everything up the front, on the chassis rails and a couple behind the light, also moved the starter relay behind the light, i had to run a YZF rear mudguard as the tank hit where the battery box mounted on the WR guard.

 

Also have a look at the cracker of a battery i had made in the other post!!! i explored keeping the electronics under the seat but it is way to much with the starter relay.

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This is the battery can't wait to have it in my hands, this is literally one off custom you can't buy this!! 315 grams 200cca ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1466386570.973655.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1466386584.201898.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1466386596.387346.jpgImageUploadedByThumper Talk1466386612.827849.jpg

Edited by chelder
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Just noticed that funny white ceramic looking switch in the first photo. It says up on one side so that must be the tip over switch and up means put it in the up position.

 

There is a ceramic looking thing  that is rectangle it is just a resistor you can mount it anywhere. but the ting with the arrow very important.... 

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all the mounts for the relays and diodes etc. i removed and taped them with denso tape and either tied them to other plugs with a mount on the frame or used a super 3m double sided tape this stuff is insanely sticky, anything that doesn't have to be there i removed...

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Hey Gents,

 

Yep Steve the white item with the 2 holes for the mount is a tip over switch very important to set that up right the bike will stark run for 5 seconds flash the engine light and cut out can be a trap if not careful lucky i clicked right away i have this mounted to the rocker cover nice and flat and it is fine.

 

With the electrics i stripped the harness right back to the join for the CDI and moved everything up the front, on the chassis rails and a couple behind the light, also moved the starter relay behind the light, i had to run a YZF rear mudguard as the tank hit where the battery box mounted on the WR guard.

 

Also have a look at the cracker of a battery i had made in the other post!!! i explored keeping the electronics under the seat but it is way to much with the starter relay.

Very good. Also after doing a bit of research on the tip over switch I believe it is important to use a rubber strip or cushion if you remove it from the stock bracket. So far I believe I can use the stock WR lower fender protector. I may have to heat or grind a little plastic. But so far with all the brackets removed it is looking good and the electronics are a little tight but still doable.

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So far my aftermarket battery holder came. It is somewhat of a POS heavy steel job not aluminum. (For a featherweight battery?)  Looks like I may have to get a little something fabricated.

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Ha battery box will hopefully be aluminum.

Couple of pics of the tip over sensor. I wrapped it in foam then zip tied it to the frame rail. The lithium batteries come with foam that I used.

image_zpskeampx5p.jpegv

image_zpsjr6ohu0a.jpeg

Edited by stevethe

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Looks good!! I'll be home on Wednesday I can't wait I have everything to finish mine off hopefully

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Is that everythying ^ ? Accept the Battery? Which will go under the tank?

Yes and the battery just came in today. So tomorrow it should be done.

One note: I had to loosen the sub fame to get the front tank bolts lined up.

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So I got the battery box done today. Everything is a tight fit but seems to work out. Remember modifications are done at your own risk. The guy that did my battery box might be interested in doing at least 10 at a time or he said it wouldn't be worth it. So someone pm me if they are interested in grouping people together and I can give you his contact info.

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image_zpsb48mlgk0.jpeg

image_zps5mvbm0du.jpg

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Was it a capacity issue? For the amount of work why not just buy the 2.5g IMS unit. I talked to them recently and their entertaining the idea of doing a screw style gas cap instead of just the drybreak unit...

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