14-16 owners running the Tusk SS oil filter?

I bought a Tusk SS filter for my 450FX, and when I went to install it I noticed that the dimensions are slightly different than the OEM filter.  It wouldn't concern me too much except that the overall length is a tad longer, and I'm worried about the extra pressure on the oil filter cover once the bolts are tightened.  Without putting any pressure on the oil filter cover there is probably a 1/8" gap or so between it and the cases.  The rubber gaskets on each end are also different than OEM (smaller diameter than the filter body).  I contacted Rocky Mountain and they assured me everything would be fine, and I'm sure they are right but figured I'd ask before I shelf this one and buy something different.

I bought a Tusk SS filter for my 450FX, and when I went to install it I noticed that the dimensions are slightly different than the OEM filter. It wouldn't concern me too much except that the overall length is a tad longer, and I'm worried about the extra pressure on the oil filter cover once the bolts are tightened. Without putting any pressure on the oil filter cover there is probably a 1/8" gap or so between it and the cases. The rubber gaskets on each end are also different than OEM (smaller diameter than the filter body). I contacted Rocky Mountain and they assured me everything would be fine, and I'm sure they are right but figured I'd ask before I shelf this one and buy something different.

What's up man! Me again, I was running one for a bit in my FX but switched back to conventional hi flo filters. Got sick of cleaning it out and waiting for it to dry. Similar to the hi flo, the tusk took a little push of the oil cover to seat it and screw the screws in.

The Scotts filter, from which the Tusk was copied, differs in that rubber pressure pads on the ends were changed so that there was only one, and so that they are slightly thicker.  That's to make up for the expected crush the pad will experience over its extended life.  I've run the Scotts filters since '04 exclusively, and never a problem with any cover.

What's up man! Me again, I was running one for a bit in my FX but switched back to conventional hi flo filters. Got sick of cleaning it out and waiting for it to dry. Similar to the hi flo, the tusk took a little push of the oil cover to seat it and screw the screws in.

 

Good to know, thanks.

Tusk=Chinese knock off, for whatever that is worth.

I'm running the Scott's and it doesn't have that problem at all.  Fit and form is perfectly fine.

 

I've read that the method of sealing at the ends of the mesh to the machined caps on the Tusk filters is "less than robust" compared to the Scott's, and leaves a path for media to get through.

 

 

My only issue with them (which would be the issue with any SS oil filter or re-usable oil filter) is that they're really kind of a PITA to get clean.  Even with an ultrasonic cleaner and blowing out with air, you can still tell there's small bits of crap that you're never going to get out of there, so you're just putting that back into your engine.  Not only is it more labor to do an oil change and have one more thing to clean, but I'm not even sure that it's "clean" when it goes back in.  I haven't had any problems yet, but every time I do an oil change I look at this thing and wonder how much better that situation could be than a new paper filter.

Edited by GHILL28

First off, out of the two rubber pads on the ends of the OEM types, only one is a seal; the one on the oil entry end, which is the outboard end on the Gen1 & 2 engines, and the inboard ends on the Gen3 & 4 EFI bikes.  The pad on the closed end is just for sealing pressure.

 

Secondly, at the risk of sounding crazy, a Scotts doesn't need to be perfectly clean.  Unlike beta rated "paper" filters, wire mesh filters are absolute filters, which is to say that they absolutely stop all objects larger than a certain size, while beta rated filters only stop a percentage of a certain size particle on the first pass, and can allow previously trapped particles to come free of the filter and enter the oil stream.  So, it whatever it is is stuck on the outside of a Scotts, it's going to stay there, period. Getting the thing 100% clean is just not a concern.

 

As far as waiting for them to dry, you can dry them near instantly with any carb cleaner that contains any form of alcohol.  Make sure that you keep the oil entry port covered as you wash to avoid sending something from the "dirty" side to the interior "clean" side. 

Right, so when I see particulate down in the bottom of the mesh on the outside, I cannot help but assume that there is a similar amount of material on the inside where I can't see it.  Again, assumption, but whatever.

I feel certain that that assumption is unfounded.  Nothing larger than 35 microns passes through a Scotts under any circumstance unless it's so packed that it bypasses. And that condition is extremely difficult to achieve, as well as the media flows oil.

I could see it getting introduced to the inside when it gets put through the ultrasonic though.

Tusk=Chinese knock off, for whatever that is worth.

 

Understood, but the wife is already a bit peeved that I bought a new bike so I've had to watch the budget on upgrade items pretty closely to avoid certain death.

 

I've read that the method of sealing at the ends of the mesh to the machined caps on the Tusk filters is "less than robust" compared to the Scott's, and leaves a path for media to get through.

 

Care to share where you read that?

Right, so when I see particulate down in the bottom of the mesh on the outside, I cannot help but assume that there is a similar amount of material on the inside where I can't see it.  Again, assumption, but whatever.

 

There are three layers of mesh that the particulates would have to go through to make that happen. If it makes you feel any better I run one in my 5.7 Dodge motor that I cant afford to replace in any case. the engineers who designed and make them for us started with the Dodge Viper racing program and make the for everything from our little bike motors all the way up to bike semi haulers (that's a big and expensive oil filter btw!). All of our filters are made in the USA in the machine shop in Colorado!

Thanks-

 Eric

Understood, but the wife is already a bit peeved that I bought a new bike so I've had to watch the budget on upgrade items pretty closely to avoid certain death.

 

 

Care to share where you read that?

 

If you cant afford a good steel filter then run a good paper filter. HiFlo filters are very good paper one! With what Ive seen on the knock off its scary!

The Scotts filter, from which the Tusk was copied, differs in that rubber pressure pads on the ends were changed so that there was only one, and so that they are slightly thicker.  That's to make up for the expected crush the pad will experience over its extended life.  I've run the Scotts filters since '04 exclusively, and never a problem with any cover.

 

Also, when the YZF motors first came out there was an issue with the seal on the motor side of the filter coming off and the operator not realizing it and when installing a new filter the double rubber on that side would crush the filters.

 I don't know if this still happens as in the shop we still sell paper filters over the counter and I haven't had anyone mention this in years.

First off, out of the two rubber pads on the ends of the OEM types, only one is a seal; the one on the oil entry end, which is the outboard end on the Gen1 & 2 engines, and the inboard ends on the Gen3 & 4 EFI bikes. The pad on the closed end is just for sealing pressure.

Secondly, at the risk of sounding crazy, a Scotts doesn't need to be perfectly clean. Unlike beta rated "paper" filters, wire mesh filters are absolute filters, which is to say that they absolutely stop all objects larger than a certain size, while beta rated filters only stop a percentage of a certain size particle on the first pass, and can allow previously trapped particles to come free of the filter and enter the oil stream. So, it whatever it is is stuck on the outside of a Scotts, it's going to stay there, period. Getting the thing 100% clean is just not a concern.

As far as waiting for them to dry, you can dry them near instantly with any carb cleaner that contains any form of alcohol. Make sure that you keep the oil entry port covered as you wash to avoid sending something from the "dirty" side to the interior "clean" side.

Fine smarty pants! I just got sick of cleaning it :)

I'm just running the stock filter and replacing it per the manual, every 15 hrs.  If I were going to be running a SS filter for sure it would be a Scotts.  Everything they touch is top shelf stuff.

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