Yamahajoe292

08 stripped drain bolt

7 posts in this topic

What would be my best fix for this and if I tap it how do I keep from getting metal shavings in my crankcase? I'm leaning towards a heli-coil and I know the motor has gotta come off to get to it so I want to do it right.

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Time-Serts are better for two reasons:

 

  • The tooling in the kit spot faces the top of the drilled hole so that even if you don't drill the hole absolutely square with the original bore, the top surface that the washer will seal to will be square with the new hole so that it can seal properly.
  • They're more durable for bolts such as drains that have to be removed repeatedly.  There's no chance of catching the end of the coiled thread as with a Heli-Coil.

Applying grease to the drill and tap will keep the chips under control.

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Time-Serts are better for two reasons:

  • The tooling in the kit spot faces the top of the drilled hole so that even if you don't drill the hole absolutely square with the original bore, the top surface that the washer will seal to will be square with the new hole so that it can seal properly.
  • They're more durable for bolts such as drains that have to be removed repeatedly. There's no chance of catching the end of the coiled thread as with a Heli-Coil.
Applying grease to the drill and tap will keep the chips under control.

Awesome, if it's a m10x1.25 bolt what will I have to drill and tap the hole to?

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The drill, tap, and spot face tools come with the kit. Probably runs it out to around 12-13, but don't do anything until you get the parts in hand. 

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I took mine to a machine shop charged me 20 bucks and had it done in a hour plus guarantied it for life. I'm pretty good with a wrench but for that price couldn't pass up.

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My main concern is just aluminum shavings getting in the oil, I'm pulling the motor off tonight to make sure I can get a straight line on the hole. It's the drain bold on the right side of the case if your sitting on the bike.

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