Sputtering and Popping above 1/2 throttle

What really isn't fun though is that I still cannot get it to duplicate the problem. I am wanting to find a problem but at the same time the bike is working perfectly fine right now. I am scared to go out and ride and the problem come back. I can't go on any long rides in fear of not being able to get back to the truck. So I might have to resort to testing until I can do 1OO miles of loops around the truck hahaha.

Krannie,

I 100% want to agree with your statement, but when it was acting up last. The bike didn't even have to be running. It would do it ignition on and not running as well as at idle, and with throttle with the RPMs up. I spent probably 3-4hrs last night with the bike striped down trying to shake, wiggle, move, pull, push, any and every electrical connection I could find. NOTHING casued the bike to give it the symptoms again. I went back to one of your original comments. "Loose plug cap/bad cap/bad plug". I am going to try and focus on this a bit.

 

I am going to pick up a new plug and throw that it in for the hell of it.

 

The ignition coil seemed like it had positive connection to the plug it takes what I felt was the appropriate effort to pop it on and off.

 

So I pulled out my manual, tester, and ignition coil. Let me state real quick I have a super basic tester and I am not familiar or educated on how to use it but I gave it a go. I tested the primary coil resistance and did not get the 0.08-0.10 as specified (but I don't know if I had things on the right settings). I then checked secondary coil resistance and that came in right smack in the middle of the specified range. If I leave the settings the same on the tester and re-check the primary, would that be a good indicator I might have a problem? Or is it a different setting I should be testing with?

 

Thanks for continuing to respond. I hope to find my problem........

 

 

Most basic or cheap multimeters cannot accurately measure resistance below 1 ohm, which is what Yamaha wants you to measure.

 

Also, you have more resistance than that in your test leads so unless you take that into account or your meter has a zero function

your reading will be way off.     You can "ballpark" it by shorting the leads together and noting the resistance displayed and subtracting

that number from the result you get when testing the coil, but it will not be spot on accurate...   those meters just can't do it.

 

You got a decent reading when testing the secondary side of the coil because that is in the K ohm (1000s of ohms) range and the

meter works OK there.

DeepPurplishBlue-

Thank You! I will have to track down someone with a nice tester to verify my findings.

Similar problem on my 06. I decided to replacing the reg/rec and when removing the old one, two wires fell out of their connectors, the single black wire and the red wire of the three prong connector coming from the reg/rec. The wires were corroded and black, so I just installed the new one and everything is running good again.
 

Well its been too hot at my house and work has been too busy to spend any time on the bike. I have a question though. Where can I go to have the battery load tested? Do most dirt bike shops have the capability to do this?

 

Just want to try and eliminate the possibility. I really don't want to just go buy a new battery for the hell of it...

You can take a battery to pepboys, auto zone, for testing

 

A load test is the only test of merit

Thanks KRANNIE, maybe I'll try and give that a go this weekend. If I have time to I'll report what I find.

Ok, weeks and weeks later finally had the time to stop by a Cycle Shop and have them load test. The response I got was you are on the verge of needing a battery. If you want I can show you the battery's.....

 

I saw the gauge though it just touches the red/green border.

 

SO I picked up a battery to try but I am not sure I want to use it quite yet and then be stuck with two good batteries. How would a battery that is on the border causing a complete discharge while under a load riding yet can hold a charge for weeks on end in the garage do this???

 

Thanks, Chris

Still searching for my problem. I am starting to think this could be a heat soak related item. Is there anything that could cause the bike to stop charging and or lose the capability to charge after the bike has been rode for a bit and becomes heat soaked???

 

It is just too consistent. Give or take a few miles it seems that somewhere between 20-30miles riding generally my second or third mini outing at my local trails it acts up. And I can not seem to get it to duplicate the problem in the garage. My first few findings it happened but I am going on months now of time and multiple test runs and cannot get it to happen once back at home.

 

Haven't tried the new battery quite yet but I am looking for other possibilities in the mean time.

 

Thanks, Chris

20-30 miles would be way past max operating temp, so it is likely not to be the stator, but it still could be.

Well maybe its time I learn how to pull a stator and also learn how to test.....

 

Thanks Krannie

Well maybe its time I learn how to pull a stator and also learn how to test.....

 

Thanks Krannie

 

Oh, I thought you already did....

 

The issue is the windings. They get hot, the laquer goes bad, and at certain temps, the windings short out, dropping the voltage below 9v.....not enough for the CDI to spark every single time....and you get a boggy studder or a dead spark. Cool the motor down, and it goes away...classic dying stator symtom. Same for Rectifier, but that usually mean no spark, no anything right when it goes...

I tested output in the garage with bike running. And it checks out ok. Problem is I cannot seem to get it to duplicate the problem in the garage. I haven't pulled it out of the bike and done the bench tests I've read about though.

 

What I am thinking about doing is connect leads to both the battery and at the output of the stator. Bring the meter in my backpack. And as soon as I start to notice it on the trail try and plug in real quick to see what's going on out of the stator and then immediately switch to the battery. Its the next step for me in my non-mechanic method of process of elimination.....

 

Thanks again for all your input. Hoping to get out tomorrow and test, fingers crossed.

OK, well, this brings up the question of why time is a factor for your symptoms:

 

Heat? (opening electrical " circuit " in the stator due to unlike metals expansion)

 - you are going to have to let it idle for at least 30 min I would say

- if you have a fan, discconect it

- try a heat gun pointed at the stator

 

Fuel? ( vapor lock in the fuel line or carb): tank vent?

 - pull the gas cap next time it happens

 

Corrosion? (a harness connection that is preventing current from making proper contact, especially under hot loads)

 - go through the harness starting at the stator plug (the most common corrosion point)

 

Battery with a bad cell?

 - I think you already replaced the battery?

 

Rectifier dying

- bench test with a heat gun...

The ignition coil is still a possibility...

 

Have a WR that exhibited some of these symptoms and it turned out to be the coil.    The problem

was impossible to identify in the garage...  coil always checked fine with a decent multimeter but

out on the trail after riding a while it would start to play up.   Swapped the coil from one of the other

bikes and problem immediately identified/solved.

 

If you have access to another coil it is an easy thing to swap out and try...

Was out of the country for a while.......

 

Talked with my Dad and he actually had a couple more complex mulitimeters that I am going to try out.

 

 

OK, well, this brings up the question of why time is a factor for your symptoms:

 

Heat? (opening electrical " circuit " in the stator due to unlike metals expansion)

 - you are going to have to let it idle for at least 30 min I would say

- if you have a fan, discconect it

- try a heat gun pointed at the stator

 

Was talking with my neighbor the other day about this problem. A minute into the conversation he says to me "sounds like a classic stator failure to me, once the bike gets hot you have dissimilar metal expansion and bam things quit working, you get home everything is cooled and it works again", He said if I don't get it figured out soon he will go out with me and we can throw the meters in backpacks and test it on the spot.

 

 

Fuel? ( vapor lock in the fuel line or carb): tank vent?

 - pull the gas cap next time it happens

 

Tried this with zero change. And I do have a tank vent that does work.

 

Corrosion? (a harness connection that is preventing current from making proper contact, especially under hot loads)

 - go through the harness starting at the stator plug (the most common corrosion point)

 

This scares me to do. I don't want to lose my patience. I do not have a ton of competence in testing electrical anything... Hopefully I find it soon!

 

Battery with a bad cell?

 - I think you already replaced the battery?

 

Could be the battery, I did pick one up but took it back before I headed out of the country. If I don't find anything in the garage I am going to grab one before we head out to ride next time and see what happens.

 

Rectifier dying

- bench test with a heat gun...

 

I will have to do some searching to make sure I am testing correctly but this might have to happen.

 

​The current stator and rectifier is a Trailtech unit. Got in touch with the original owner and he said to dig deep in the parts box he gave me and look. He said there should be a stock stator and rectifier in the box that was working fine when he pulled it. The reason for the trailtech was for running large aftermarket lighting. Found it and have this as a bench test for me to learn how to check the stator. I might depend on my findings throw this back in the bike just because if it bench tests as a known working part I can eliminate it. The harness looks different but original owner says when I pull everything apart I should be able to plug things right back in. Just adapters, no wire cutting. Fingers crossed.

 

​Thank you for the on-going help Krannie I REALLY REALLY appreciate it. I am not one to just throw money at things and thanks to my dad I am a stubborn to pay someone to fix things for me....right now I really like the sound of that though hahahaha.

The ignition coil is still a possibility...

 

Have a WR that exhibited some of these symptoms and it turned out to be the coil.    The problem

was impossible to identify in the garage...  coil always checked fine with a decent multimeter but

out on the trail after riding a while it would start to play up.   Swapped the coil from one of the other

bikes and problem immediately identified/solved.

 

If you have access to another coil it is an easy thing to swap out and try...

 

 

After my stator and rectifier tests i'll dig into this. Do you know if the coil is swappable from a WR250?? This is what I found out my neighbor rides, and I think pretty close in age. TO ADD to my neighbor....I just learned of his riding and that he was a Land Rover Mechanic for almost 30yrs and both he and his Wife raced in some sort of street bike series, so he might have some good insight on testing things out.

 

And same to you DeepPurplishBlue, appreciate the help.

 

 

Was out of the country for a while.......

 

Talked with my Dad and he actually had a couple more complex mulitimeters that I am going to try out.

 

 

OK, well, this brings up the question of why time is a factor for your symptoms:

 

Heat? (opening electrical " circuit " in the stator due to unlike metals expansion)

 - you are going to have to let it idle for at least 30 min I would say

- if you have a fan, discconect it

- try a heat gun pointed at the stator

 

Was talking with my neighbor the other day about this problem. A minute into the conversation he says to me "sounds like a classic stator failure to me, once the bike gets hot you have dissimilar metal expansion and bam things quit working, you get home everything is cooled and it works again", He said if I don't get it figured out soon he will go out with me and we can throw the meters in backpacks and test it on the spot.

 

 

Fuel? ( vapor lock in the fuel line or carb): tank vent?

 - pull the gas cap next time it happens

 

Tried this with zero change. And I do have a tank vent that does work.

 

Corrosion? (a harness connection that is preventing current from making proper contact, especially under hot loads)

 - go through the harness starting at the stator plug (the most common corrosion point)

 

This scares me to do. I don't want to lose my patience. I do not have a ton of competence in testing electrical anything... Hopefully I find it soon!

 

Battery with a bad cell?

 - I think you already replaced the battery?

 

Could be the battery, I did pick one up but took it back before I headed out of the country. If I don't find anything in the garage I am going to grab one before we head out to ride next time and see what happens.

 

Rectifier dying

- bench test with a heat gun...

 

I will have to do some searching to make sure I am testing correctly but this might have to happen.

 

​The current stator and rectifier is a Trailtech unit. Got in touch with the original owner and he said to dig deep in the parts box he gave me and look. He said there should be a stock stator and rectifier in the box that was working fine when he pulled it. The reason for the trailtech was for running large aftermarket lighting. Found it and have this as a bench test for me to learn how to check the stator. I might depend on my findings throw this back in the bike just because if it bench tests as a known working part I can eliminate it. The harness looks different but original owner says when I pull everything apart I should be able to plug things right back in. Just adapters, no wire cutting. Fingers crossed.

 

​Thank you for the on-going help Krannie I REALLY REALLY appreciate it. I am not one to just throw money at things and thanks to my dad I am a stubborn to pay someone to fix things for me....right now I really like the sound of that though hahahaha.

 

It's the stator I'll bet.

 

Trail tech used to be know as FAIL-TECH due to all the bad stators they would ship.

Ricky Stator used to be known as RISKY STATOR for the same reason.

 

Both are better now.

Interesting about the two brands. I should have a bit of time today to go due some preliminary testing. I need to find out what resistance the stock stator should have and make sure I have (continuity?). I'll then probably pull the tank and plastics and check out my plug/harness situation and do a quick test on the trailtech unit while installed to see if I have any obvious results. I'll be sure to report what I find the best I can. Probably will take a couple notes so I can post accurate findings.

Ok,

I used the trailtech youtube video as a reference. I had resistance with OHMs just like I was supposed to on my two yellows and coninutity via the sound test. I could not however get the continuity or the OHMs resistance on my red and black. This was the same for the stocker that I had in the box. I checked for grounding out and got no sounds testing like the video shows. Could be me and not knowing how to use the multimeter but I got the same results on both the stators. I through the stocker back in and will be going out tomorrow morning with my daughter to a local trail area that is relatively flat and I am just going to lap after lap with her and see what happens. There are enough bumps to shake things up but there is nothing more than rolling hills in the even it dies out (easy to get back to camp).

 

I'll post up the results tomorrow.

 

Chris

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