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YamahaSteve

Brake Line Re-route

14 posts in this topic

OK, here is the deal... I have done a search but haven't found too much. I have a 04 WR450 and I am trying to install a set of the Acerbis Rally Pro guards (the all platic ones). My brake line is installed so that the hard part of the line is coming out of the master cylinder parallel to the handle bars raight through where the guards need to go. According to the manual, it is installed properly in this position. What I want to know is, can I just remove the line and flip it over so that the line comes out pointing somewhat up instead of down. Anyone who has this WR model will know what I am reffering to. Or, if you have some other clever trick, let me know. I really want to get the guards on. The 250 pound girth of this bike really bends the heck out of the levers just setting it down kinda rough. Thanks.

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I dont know that you would have enough brake line that way. Not the best way to route the line.

I would suggest to go buy a Honda 96+ Nissin MC. The line is pointed to the rear of the Mc, instead of the front like the Wr stock. Gives you just enough clearance with the Rally Pros. You may need like a 1/2" thick spacer where the guards mount up to the center part of the bars.

Alternatively to all this, fastway and Summers racing makes mounting points that go on the top tripple clamps. With that setup, there is lots of room for the brakes and makes the mounting stronger.

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I would suggest to go buy a Honda 96+ Nissin MC.

How much is a new master cylinder??

Alternatively to all this, fastway and Summers racing makes mounting points that go on the top tripple clamps.

These are for the Acerbis Rally Pro guards??

Thanks for the 411... I will check into it. Anybody else have a suggestion or idea?

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Loosen you brake clamp move leaver slighty up.

Cut a grove in the guard just to the left of the large tab that protects the master cylinder.

Job done !

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i know what you mean. the design doesn't make any sense. if you flip the line over it wont line up correctly at the caliper. i tried a couple things but ended up buying one of the kits that routes the line honda style.

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It works fine on my Acerbis Rally Pro guards. The banjo bolt at the master is almost touching the guards. Stock postion works fine on my bike. Clutch lever I did have to move with the perch slightly but not much. :)

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I sawed off one of the 2 tangs that keeps the brake line from moving up or down at the master cylinder. Then I loosened the banjo bolt and moved the brake line out of the

way. I did this on 3 wr's so far with no problems. Tighten the banjo bolt real tight to prevent rotating.

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OK... ooopps!! I actually have the Rally Brush all plastic versions... the pics above are the pro... sorry guys. This explains why so many of you have had no problems installing them. Anyone get the rally brush gaurds on with a clever trick or somthing. I have already carved away quite a bit of plastic to try to fit them. I don;t really want to move my lever up since that is where they are comfortable. I guess if nothing else works, I could just toss em and get the rally pro guards.... I just hate to waste fitty bucks...

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I know what you're talking about. The brake line on the WR indeed seems too long. A design flaw in my opinion especially considering that many of us mount navigation equipment over the handle bars that battle ith the brake-line. On my 2001 I saw of the upper pin and let it bend more naturally. If you don't saw the pin of it becomes awkward again. It works fine, the ONLY REASON why the brake hose is bend down is because of air bubbles. If you bend it up, it becomes more difficult to bleed the braking system as the highest point becomes the brake-line curve and not the master-cylinder. The best way to go though is like I did on my 2004, is to buy an aftermarket steel-mantled hose with CR-rounting. Don't know why they call it CR routing as virtually EVERY other bike than Yamaha routes the fron brake that way, you reduce approximately 6 inches in length and get a stiffer more reponsive brake. Good luck :)

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I mounted the brake line above the upper tab i.e. it is supposed to go between the two tabs near the banjo bolt. I removed it and placed it above the upper tab so that it rests on it. Torque the banjo as per specs. You can put a cable tie around it and the tabs to prevent the brake line from moving up and loosening the banjo. I've had no problems yet.

You still have to trim the flap that sticks out to cover the MC. Trim it carefully and bit by bit so you have a slot that follows the brake line. This will give some protection to the mc and will look like it's ment to have a slot. :)

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Thanks for all the ideas. Has anybody just taken the line off and turned it over and then re-intalled the banjo bolt so that the facotry bend in the line points upward? My TTR250 was pointed upward.... I had these gaurds and loved them... anything I need to worry about doing somthing like that? Aside from the air bubbles as pointed out previously...

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Did the same as what you did and it worked great I used a vaccum pump brake bleeder to bleed the the brakes and it took about five minutes to bleed the front brake. The brake line curves up pretty high, so hopefully it doesn't get snagged by a tree branch.

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Thanks for all the ideas. Has anybody just taken the line off and turned it over and then re-intalled the banjo bolt so that the facotry bend in the line points upward? My TTR250 was pointed upward....

My dealer did that before they gave it to me, the service manager(a good friend, known him for over 15 years...)told me they turned them all over because the factory installed them wrong..... :)

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