Gold Valve Install

[jbird]

I was hoping someone who has installed Gold Valves in a 426 could clear something up for me. As far as Race Tech's directions reguarding the diasembly/assembly of the mid-valve there is a lot to be desired. Without some prior experience and lots of TLC I can see how you could get into a big expensive mess.

Anyway, for those who have done this installation:

1) I assume that the cylinder seal that Race Tech provides totally replaces the flat metal washer that the seal buts up against in the stock setup. No where does it say to get rid of this washer but I didn't see any way leaving it in there would allow the seal head to fully screw into the cylinder.

2) Even with just the cylinder seal installed the seal head does not fully seat with the cylinder itself like it did when just the stock metal washer was in there. The cylinder seal is about 1mm thicker than the stock metal washer so when the seal head it tightned it is about 1mm from fully screwing/seating into the cylinder. I don't see this as a problem or anyway to fix it.

I just wanted to know if I was missing something before it all goes back together?

Thanks Jon

[crazyadam]

The seal does replace the flat washer, and it is thicker, so you are all set with 1mm of space at the cap.

THIER INSTRUCTIONS SUCK!!

AND they (race tech) are Not very helpful ?

I've been waiting a month for them to send the shock video.

ONE MONTH .... NO VIDEO

....................................

I just called them the 5th time! and the Sent one out right away!!!

Finally! But its on its way

[ March 20, 2002: Message edited by: crazyadam ]

[MX_Tuner]

Dave, funny how you go so far to get where you're at. At least you're close to perfect for you.

Last 426 I did, we were planning on doing the bottoming cones if the forks weren't virtually perfect. I was anxious to see what they were like. We got it together, and it works so perfectly its scary. Plush in braking bumps, excellent overall action and virtually no bottoming. I had to get off the bike because my mind was getting ready to write checks my body couldn't pay for. I was way overconfident riding it. Suspension you dream of.....

[jbird]

Thanks for the info. I was hoping it wasn't just me that thought the directions suck. I don't consider myself a total idiot even though my girlfriend says I am once and awhile. That's another story though.

Anyway, good luck with the shock. If I like the forks I may head down that road as well.

Jon

[DaveJ]

Jon,

You're right, it's a major oversight on their design.

And it's not over yet.

Keep in mind that when you jump the bike, that spring on the top of the mid-valve (rebound piston assembly) will slam into the back of the plate under the cylinder valve. So, it has to be steel and it has to be snug.

During my earlier "make the Race-Tech approach work" days, I made steel shims to take up this slack.

The other issue is that the cylinder valve has to seat all the way down against the cylinder or it leaks. Actually, it leaks anyways, which is another major Race-Tech over sight. This causes the oil to flow around the cylinder valve instead of flowing via the base valve. Their plate is actually a patch design. Weeeaaak!

So by the time you're done doing the Race-Tech thing on these forks, you have no mid-stroke rod speed control, and you most likely won't conclude with enough low speed compression for serious motocrossing.

However, the harshness will be gone and that makes a lot of people happy for general trail riding.

I don't know what year you are working with, but on my 00, I gave up on the Race-Tech approach and went more with the ScottF approach. The faster I rode, the more sense it made.

The conclusion is that the mid-valve has to stay in, but needs to be modified so that it doesn't tweak. And it's best to convert the base stack, WITH the stock piston, to a single stage.

Then to resolve the issue of cylinder valve flow, and save on some medical bills, the C-Cycle bottoming cones are the way to go.

I think I have tried just about every configuration possible, and I would have to bet that what I am now concluding to, is most likely the same thing that ScottF has been running all along, (how does he do that?).

You have to go through all this stuff before it finally hits you on what is the right thing to do. The epiphany cycle.

Don’t get me wrong, Race-Tech has its moments - but in the suspension business you can’t be all things to all people.

DaveJ

[DaveJ]

MX Tuner -

I thought you be all over me for being so hard on RaceTech.

What gives?

DaveJ

[jbird]

I kinda thought I would hear from both of you guys (Dave and Tuner). At this point I am in no position to jump into either suspension camp. I have no ride experience with either the Gold Valves or any other aftermarket companies. All I can say is that I have seen C-Cycle and Factory Connection tear apart/put together many sets of forks at the NESC races here in New England but was not ready to tear into mine without some sort of guidance. I figured Race Tech would give me the help/confidence I needed. Plus for $125 I didn't think I could go too wrong. I already figure I've gained $125 worth of knowledge about forks in general.

I can always go back and work with the stock setup if I need to.

Thanks guys, Jon

[John_Curea]

Tuner

The rumor mill has you coming out with your own piston design, any truth??

We were looking for you in Macon,Ga. at round 2 of the GNCC...we will be at round 3 in Morganton,NC this weekend if you are going....

Take Care, John

[MX_Tuner]

DaveJ,what do you mean?

John, no I'm not interested in doing my own pistons. I don't have time to do what I do let alone R&D my own design. Remember, I do this as a hobby. I have a full time job outside the bike industry that pays quite well. If I honestly thought there was a need, I might consider it but there are enough designs that work very well that I can use. Besides, I don't have the knowledge or financial backing to do that.

Don't even bother with the Type Two Gold Valves. I think you'll find them way too stiff for anything but pro sx. Even RT's recommended stacks are stiffer than what I use for the Type Ones.