RMK800

What did you do to your YZ450FX today?

561 posts in this topic

Yeah, I know, but I wanted another 'perspective' to try and convince me...

Naw you know you want the Acerbis 2.9 internal tank.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just picked up a warp 9 rear brake pedal to replace the stock one I smashed with approx 2 hours on motor lol. This thing looks bad to the bone. Much better quality than stock.

Yeah, I know, but I wanted another 'perspective' to try and convince me...

I couldn't pull the trigger on that one...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just picked up a warp 9 rear brake pedal to replace the stock one I smashed with approx 2 hours on motor lol. This thing looks bad to the bone. Much better quality than stock.

I couldn't pull the trigger on that one...

Warp 9 = Chinese I believe?

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Do those stickers come off that axp skid plate. They are terrible

No they don't ! It looks like a good quality sticker and if it's well stuck, it will not move ! I have a friend from the social media page "dirthammers" who has one on his EXCF350 for a year now and never lost it. You can check their page on Instagram by "Dirthammers" ;)

AXP  online store is www.axpracing.com .They propose 2 skid plates for this bike . One "classic" and one with full hose radiator coverage + complete sticker kit ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Warp 9 = Chinese I believe?

I don't think so. Their website suggests that they are out of salt lake city. Could be their distributor I guess, but no mention of china.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here it is. The tip is on a pivot, like a footpeg. Won't smash in again. Came with brake snake, that I'm installing later. Looks like high quality product.

20161012_190741.jpg

Edited by RichDawson
1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here it is. The tip is on a pivot, like a footpeg. Won't smash in again. Came with brake snake, that I'm installing later. Looks like high quality product.

 

It looks good but I believe it is imported. One of the only ones Ive seen that looks better than stock is Hammerhead designs which lists forged 6061 T-6 aluminum. The last import shifter I saw was a Tusk on the Anvil's FX it bent like a pretzel and went right through the ignition case. Ended up like this  http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1200322-snake-pit-shows-no-mercy/#

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I raced mine in a hare scramble yesterday. Now it's all dirty and I have to wash it.

 

I've done several things to it since I bought it.

Cycra plastics

FMF 4.1 Ti/carbon slip on

Tusk battery

Tusk wheels set

Gold valves and springs front and rear

GYTR hand gaurds

GYTR kick stand delete

Factory FX seat cover with bump

Pro Circuit dogbone

Ride Engineering 22mm clamps with  CRF4540 steering damper

 

 

My season just ended yesterday so now it's time to start on next year's upgrades. My main complaint with my FX has b

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok my computer somehow cut my last post short.

Main complaint has been the wide ratio transmission, I ride a lot of moto and the wide ratio is killing me. With that being said I have a friend who was nice enough to to the homework and he claims (I hope he's right) that the YZ trans will just drop in. My plan is to keep the tall 5th if it'll fit for transfer roads when I do ride off road.

 

The other thing for winter will be another revalve and softer springs if I can manage to drop from my porky 245lbs to my goal of about 200 lbs.

 

Along with that, yesterday I spent some time talking about chassis setup with Matt from Checkpoint Offroad and his experience with the FX's the 7mm longer rear shock makes the bike a bit too much of a stinkbug unless you ride a ton of tight single track, which I don't do so with his recommendation I'm going to add a 5mm shim in the shock to lower the back about an inch.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

^ the stink bug can be with setup. If your static sag is like 15, ya there is a bunch of pre-load on that spring. If your spring is right for weight and you can get the static sag to like 30 to 35 the rear end will drop and you won't have that initial pre-load that effects overall suspension performance.

I was on the border with a new spring, so I did go up one. Now my static sag is at 33, the bike actually was lowered and the suspension felt so much better. To little static sag is not a good thing.

Edited by RMK800

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

^ the stink bug can be with setup. If your static sag is like 15, ya there is a bunch of pre-load on that spring. If your spring is right for weight and you can get the static sag to like 30 to 35 the rear end will drop and you won't have that initial pre-load that effects overall suspension performance.

I was on the border with a new spring, so I did go up one. Now my static sag is at 33, the bike actually was lowered and the suspension felt so much better. To little static sag is not a good thing.

 

 

When your static sag is too small, then low profile terrain changes will actuall make the bike 'skip'.

 

Your suspension needs to 'drop' as needed to meet the surface of the undulating ground, or the whole bike will drop instead...then the weight distribution shifts, and you loose traction control.

 

Almost all manufactuers design the handling of the bike around very specific sag numbers.

 

Your goal is to start with those, and tune from there.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah I get all that. I'm currently at about 28mm static and about 108 race sag. At static the back end is still roughly 1 1/4 inches higher than a standard yz with the same static number which still equals stink bug. Lowering the static to 35 would put race sag at about 115 which is beyond the desired range of 100-108. Along with that dropping the static from 28-35 still only drops the back 7mm or just over 1/4". My opinion of messing with the sag outside of normal spec range may work somewhat but I'd much rather just shorten the shock and stick to the spec numbers.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So you have changed your rear shock? No way you get static sag at 28 when you weight 245 on a stock spring. I agree you want to stay around 105, I wasn't sure if you changed your spring or not.

Edited by RMK800

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah the stock spring s were the first things to go. Fat guy like me has no shot at stock springs working. 115 race sag would have the shock topped out static.

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Today changed oil, filters, adjusted bar position (on Scotts sub-mount), put on TMD slider and chain block. I'll tell you the OEM slider was worn through and grooving the swing arm and I don't have that many hours on the bike yet. :thumbsup:  :ride: I was surprised to see so much wear already. :lol:  :facepalm: 

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Reply with: