Krannie McKranface

Does your 2012-1215 start well, and what did you do to achieve this?

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Thinking of buying a used one for a new project, but I'm not sure if the really bad starting problems were ever figured out on the uncorked New Gen FI WR450F.... and I can't justify a 2016....

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Thinking of buying a used one for a new project, but I'm not sure if the really bad starting problems were ever figured out on the uncorked New Gen FI WR450F.... and I can't justify a 2016....

You can totally justify a 2016...
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I was ready to sell my 2014 and started to part out all the aftermarket parts. The first to go were the GYTR ECM and the FMF Q4. I sold them to a member on Thumper Talk. I installed the stock muffler with pea shooter removed and stock ECM and the snorkels are also still removed. So having a Yamaha diagnostics tool I hooked it up to see if it would change the CO and it will, so I set it to +5 and went for a ride. The ride was from 1500-3500 feet and stopped and started it 20 times. It started within one second every time without touching the throttle at all, and it would never do that with the GYTR stuff installed. You know how well the 450X starts and that's how my WR 450 was starting today.

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I was ready to sell my 2014 and started to part out all the aftermarket parts. The first to go were the GYTR ECM and the FMF Q4. I sold them to a member on Thumper Talk. I installed the stock muffler with pea shooter removed and stock ECM and the snorkels are also still removed. So having a Yamaha diagnostics tool I hooked it up to see if it would change the CO and it will, so I set it to +5 and went for a ride. The ride was from 1500-3500 feet and stopped and started it 20 times. It started within one second every time without touching the throttle at all, and it would never do that with the GYTR stuff installed. You know how well the 450X starts and that's how my WR 450 was starting today.

Interesting. Definitely not my experience. Both ECUs take 2 pushes of the button to start, that's why I usually just kick the bitch. I like kicking her anyway. I think she likes it too.
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I  have a 14 with the usual mods (ECU, exhaust , etc.) I ended up buying the EFI tool so I could adjust the CO. Now that I found the setting it likes with the map I am running it starts easily, once in a while it will get fussy but that is cured by cranking with the throttle wide open for a second or two. 

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I had problems with my bike when I got it ( Race ECU, TS screw and a Yosh slipon ) it always needed the throttle turned slightly and wouldn't start in gear for shit.

 

I bought the Yamaha diagnostic tool and set the CO using the info in that huge thread.   Ended up with a -9.   The bike starts first push of the button almost immediately hot or cold as long as it's in neutral.   In gear is a 50/50 proposition but if I crack the throttle slightly for the second try it always fires.

 

I'll probably play with it a bit more but I lent the tool to a buddy of mine who's having a problem with his bike DUMPING fuel when he's trying the kick it over and it's not running well at all.

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I solved the problem with my leg.  I also think that weak-ass battery installed from stock is part of the problem.  It'll spin, just not enough juice to catch. 

 

In a year or two, I'm going to the 2-smoke.

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I solved the problem with my leg. I also think that weak-ass battery installed from stock is part of the problem. It'll spin, just not enough juice to catch.

In a year or two, I'm going to the 2-smoke.

Battery is definitely part of the problem. I put an Antigravity lithium battery in and it spins it faster and doesn't die out like the stock battery, but still takes 2 pushes of the button for some reason.

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Battery is definitely part of the problem. I put an Antigravity lithium battery in and it spins it faster and doesn't die out like the stock battery, but still takes 2 pushes of the button for some reason.

 

You are supposed to push the estart button once briefly, wait for the pump to prime (you can hear it) then go ahead and start it.

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You are supposed to push the estart button once briefly, wait for the pump to prime (you can hear it) then go ahead and start it.

No, you can hear the pump prime when you punch the button to turn the bike on. When the display comes on, the pump primes.
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No, you can hear the pump prime when you punch the button to turn the bike on. When the display comes on, the pump primes.

 

 'Turn the bike on' ? 

 

Sorry, I thought I was in the BETA forum, where they don't have ignition switches.

 

Doooooooh

Edited by KRANNIE

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'Turn the bike on' ?

Sorry, I thought I was in the BETA forum, where they don't have ignition switches.

Doooooooh

Okay I should clarify, by turning the bike on I meant the electrical system. Push the button, display lights up, pump primes and she's ready to be turned over.

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Okay I should clarify, by turning the bike on I meant the electrical system. Push the button, display lights up, pump primes and she's ready to be turned over.

 

No, I get it. I have a WR.

 

I'm active in several forums, and I thought the notification was for the BETA forum.....they don't have ignition switches or keys, so to prime the pump you tap the starter, wait for the pump to stop priming, then start er up.

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No, I get it. I have a WR.

I'm active in several forums, and I thought the notification was for the BETA forum.....they don't have ignition switches or keys, so to prime the pump you tap the starter, wait for the pump to stop priming, then start er up.

What I'm saying is you don't have to press the starter button in order to prime the pump. The bike does it automatically. As soon as you put power to the electrical system the pump primes itself.

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What I'm saying is you don't have to press the starter button in order to prime the pump. The bike does it automatically. As soon as you put power to the electrical system the pump primes itself.

 

RIGHT GOT IT

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To answer your topic question

NO

but kicks always on first kick

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Thinking of buying a used one for a new project, but I'm not sure if the really bad starting problems were ever figured out on the uncorked New Gen FI WR450F.... and I can't justify a 2016....

That's quitter talk - I concur with Texas2Smoker. You should get the '16. Justify-schmustify.

What type of project?

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That's quitter talk - I concur with Texas2Smoker. You should get the '16. Justify-schmustify.

What type of project?

 

Justify the EXPENSE....I just bought a brand new BETA. ....and it is fantastic, but it's still a 'lightweight' kind of bike, and I don't think it will ever do well going really fast over really rough terrain.

My '08 WR/YZ450F is got some hours on it and I don't want to put any more money into it.

I want to sell it as it sits, and not remove any accesories and peformance upgrades.

...and I am tired of constantly doing carb 'crap' to keep it running tip-top.

 

It looks like you can get a brand new 2014 WR450F for 5999 OTD from several places around the country.  That's well over $2k less than a 2016.... and either bike will require the same amount of 'extras' to get it to fit me.

 

I'm thinking about taking a stock WR450F and see how I can get 25lbs off of it without buying any 'trick' parts or removing anything like the starter.

 

Just a machine shop and some creativity, and maybe some custom built parts like axles, steering stems, motor mounts, etc etc.

I would even go at the frame and add in some flex..........

 

I wonder how much a used CNC machine might cost....... :goofy:

Edited by KRANNIE
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Justify the EXPENSE....I just bought a brand new BETA. ....and it is fantastic, but it's still a 'lightweight' kind of bike, and I don't think it will ever do well going really fast over really rough terrain.

My '08 WR/YZ450F is got some hours on it and I don't want to put any more money into it.

I want to sell it as it sits, and not remove any accesories and peformance upgrades.

...and I am tired of constantly doing carb 'crap' to keep it running tip-top.

 

It looks like you can get a brand new 2014 WR450F for 5999 OTD from several places around the country.  That's well over $2k less than a 2016.... and either bike will require the same amount of 'extras' to get it to fit me.

 

I'm thinking about taking a stock WR450F and see how I can get 25lbs off of it without buying any 'trick' parts or removing anything like the starter.

 

Just a machine shop and some creativity, and maybe some custom built parts like axles, steering stems, motor mounts, etc etc.

I would even go at the frame and add in some flex..........

 

I wonder how much a used CNC machine might cost....... :goofy:

My 2014 has never given me one bit of start problems (ECU, FMF Q4, uncorked). 5999 is a damn good price for that machine.

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Justify the EXPENSE....I just bought a brand new BETA. ....and it is fantastic, but it's still a 'lightweight' kind of bike, and I don't think it will ever do well going really fast over really rough terrain.

My '08 WR/YZ450F is got some hours on it and I don't want to put any more money into it.

I want to sell it as it sits, and not remove any accesories and peformance upgrades.

...and I am tired of constantly doing carb 'crap' to keep it running tip-top.

 

It looks like you can get a brand new 2014 WR450F for 5999 OTD from several places around the country.  That's well over $2k less than a 2016.... and either bike will require the same amount of 'extras' to get it to fit me.

 

I'm thinking about taking a stock WR450F and see how I can get 25lbs off of it without buying any 'trick' parts or removing anything like the starter.

 

Just a machine shop and some creativity, and maybe some custom built parts like axles, steering stems, motor mounts, etc etc.

I would even go at the frame and add in some flex..........

 

I wonder how much a used CNC machine might cost....... :goofy:

I will definitely follow that thread.  Taking existing stock parts and removing material in every place possible that doesn't sacrifice durability is intriguing, but hitting that 25 lb mark with a battery, starter, kickstand, headlight, and speedo still on board without buying lightweight replacement stuff will definitely be a challenge!  I'm no naysayer though, I'd like to see you do it.

 

How much is a used CNC machine?  I guess it depends, but probably not far off the cost of nice, new 2016 WR450F.  At least you can re-sell when you're done.

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/used-cnc-milling-machine

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