TT official 2016 WR450F mods

This one is a 6 amp hour I wonder if it would work. http://www.revzilla.com/motorcycle/antigravity-small-case-4-cell-120ca-lithium-ion-battery?utm_source=product&kwd=&gclid=CLy917Lwrc0CFQ6oaQodtNkELQ

Edit: I think this one has about the same power as stock and will work fine.

 

Yep that one should work/fit how are you going with all the electrics, when i get home I'm actually going to cut the harness up and re-pin it all and make it super nice i want this to be really reliable, light and just one of WOW that's a neat job that's how Yamaha should of done it...plus I'm half crazy or OCD about things being perfect I've no joke run the wiring 3 or 4 times and I'm still not happy with it even though you can't see it hahaha.

Sounds like a good time to create a how to guide!

Hey mate,

 

Yeah when I'm done and sure it is 100% perfect I will i feel it might never end ha-ha every time i think its done i think of ways i can do this or that better like the custom battery it may end up behind the light yet to shorten the battery cable to the starter relay.

 

Feel free to ask questions and ill be happy to help if someone wants to do one?

I now have a 450FX

 

Since I am not a track rider, I will post in the WR forum as the applications will be mostly identical.

 

I plan to add a headlight (oem) tail light and license light (RycoMoto) a DS 'minimal' kit, a plate, larger tank, a better skid, .54/6.3 springs, BRP submount, damper, and a taller seat.

 

I also will be documenting my plan to lower the foot pegs 20-25mm, which should be interesting..........

I decided to take the step for more flywheel effect so pictured is the all steel clutch basket from Hinson. image_zpsqfrow2sl.jpeg

Does anybody have this mounted on their wr? Can't find any good pictures and would like some feedback on this. Does it fit with all the relays and wirings that is mounted on the wr, and does it do the job in covering them from dirt and water getting inside? If somebody have a better picture i would like to see it please.

 

https://www.lightspeedcarbon.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=701-00314

Thx, Foggy. 

 

I have tried all three Transmoto maps recently. My humble thoughts:

 

Map 2 ~ ‘Competition Trim’ (YMA Tech Launch)

Fuel             Ign

0   1   -2       1   2   4

1   2   -2       2   2   2

1   2    0       1   0   1

 

~ ADR restrictors removed, large outlet in endcap. 

~ More fuel at lower revs for added torque. 

~ Less fuel up top to generate more revs. 

~ Ignition advanced across the board to allow engine to rev. 

 
Wow. Stupid fast and very, very fast response from the motor. Too much power everywhere for all conditions except for deep sand etc where the abrupt throttle response is dulled by the lack of traction. Difficult to hold at a steady throttle opening, especially on the road (I'm plated).
 
 
Map 3 ~ ‘Traction’

Fuel            Ign

1   5   3       0   -2   2

2   4   2      -1   -2   1

2   2   2      -1   -2   1

 

~ Richer fuel at lower revs, power comes on less abruptly. 

~ Builds power in a smoother, torquier, more progressive way. 

~ Retarding ignition bottom and mid acts like traction control.

 
Ahhh, better for this Old Newbie off road, hard-packed dirt, rock gardens, river crossings etc The throttle is calmer and much easier to transition off a closed throttle. Cruise is easy to hold. Nice and torquey down low and throttle easy to moderate but top end is a bit dead. 
 
 
Map 7 ~ ‘Consistent Power delivery at all RPM’ (w/aftermarket exhaust)

-2   -2   -2     -2  -2  -2

-3   -3   -3     -2  -2  -2 

-4   -4   -4     -2  -2  -2

 

This is not one of the Transmoto maps. I think it came from YMC directly. Sits half way between the Competition Map and the Traction Map in terms of low to mid torque and good top end revs. Still a bit twitchy for slow, technical bush work, but if you are riding over a variety of terrain and can't be arsed changing maps every 5 minutes, this is a great all-rounder. 

 

 

I am going to create my own slightly livelier 'Traction Map' by taking -1 fuel off all Traction Map settings and advancing all ignition settings by +1. Stay tuned. I'll report back after the next ride. Might be a week or so while I recover ... threw the bike down in the river yesterday and smashed my left hip into the rocks. Bruised but not broken. Bike's fine. ;-)

 

Map 3 ~ ‘Traction ~ Lively’

Fuel            Ign

0   4   2       1   -1   3

1   3   1       0   -1   2

1   1   1       0   -1   2

 

 

My humble 2c. 

Does anybody have this mounted on their wr? Can't find any good pictures and would like some feedback on this. Does it fit with all the relays and wirings that is mounted on the wr, and does it do the job in covering them from dirt and water getting inside? If somebody have a better picture i would like to see it please.

 

https://www.lightspeedcarbon.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=701-00314

 

I have one with the Baja Designs DS kit, and it still fits with that extra wiring that I have. I haven't gotten the bike really dirty since I've installed it, so I cant say too much about it covering for debris. The fitment is decent, but not impressive. 

IMG_0602.jpg

x3 22mm holes each side of the intake snorkel. x2 additional 10mm water drain holes. 

 

Worked for the 250FX which had the same OEM snorkel opening size, so must be better for the four-fiddy, which needs more air? 

 

OEM snorkel openings = 90x40mm (averaged) x2 = 72sq.cm. 

 

22mm circle = 3.8sq.cm. x6 = 23sq.cm. 

 

Roughly 32% more intake area, if my high school maths is not too shitty. 

 

I'll try it and report back. I ended up carving out the ribbed recesses in the black plastic guard to the rear of the air filter, in front of the tank, on the two-fiddy. Can't be arsed taking the tank out at the moment to get to the shield, but will inevitably end up doing it. More air + more fuel = good. 

 

8^)-

 

 

 

 

IMG_6119.jpg

IMG_6126.jpg

x3 22mm holes each side of the intake snorkel. x2 additional 10mm water drain holes. 

 

Worked for the 250FX which had the same OEM snorkel opening size, so must be better for the four-fiddy, which needs more air? 

 

OEM snorkel openings = 90x40mm (averaged) x2 = 72sq.cm. 

 

22mm circle = 3.8sq.cm. x6 = 23sq.cm. 

 

Roughly 32% more intake area, if my high school maths is not too shitty. 

 

I'll try it and report back. I ended up carving out the ribbed recesses in the black plastic guard to the rear of the air filter, in front of the tank, on the two-fiddy. Can't be arsed taking the tank out at the moment to get to the shield, but will inevitably end up doing it. More air + more fuel = good. 

 

8^)-

I just cut a big square hole enlarging mine.

I have Enduro Engineering radiator guards that use a longer bolts and a plastic spacer. I just trimmed my stock radiator shrouds so they come closer to the guards that way I was able to remove the spacers and get the shrouds tucked in better like stock.

x3 22mm holes each side of the intake snorkel. x2 additional 10mm water drain holes. 

 

Worked for the 250FX which had the same OEM snorkel opening size, so must be better for the four-fiddy, which needs more air? 

 

OEM snorkel openings = 90x40mm (averaged) x2 = 72sq.cm. 

 

22mm circle = 3.8sq.cm. x6 = 23sq.cm. 

 

Roughly 32% more intake area, if my high school maths is not too shitty. 

 

I'll try it and report back. I ended up carving out the ribbed recesses in the black plastic guard to the rear of the air filter, in front of the tank, on the two-fiddy. Can't be arsed taking the tank out at the moment to get to the shield, but will inevitably end up doing it. More air + more fuel = good. 

 

8^)-

 

Tons of turbulence with those little holes....though it probably won't matter

Yeah, I wondered about that but it didn't seem to impact the 250FX. I did have airbox turbulence issues on the Blackbird (carbs) with free flowing air filters, dropped back to OEM paper elements, problems solved. varying levels of airbox pressure levels messing with the flat-slides. I think that the injected engines are less prone to these issues. ...and I don't ride too fast...

 

8^)-

Opened air box. Also pulled all the foam out.

image_zpsxc7uat6k.jpeg

image_zpsa2ak7kfp.jpeg

Edited by stevethe

Hey, Steve. 

 

Interesting. Any water ingestion issues? 

 

Notice a difference in performance? (Apologies if you have covered this elsewhere...)

 

G. 

Hey, Steve. 

 

Interesting. Any water ingestion issues? 

 

Notice a difference in performance? (Apologies if you have covered this elsewhere...)

 

G.

No I didn't cover it anywhere. But yeah it had some more pull and mid range punch.

Cool. I like. Exactly what I felt with the 250. Have not been out on the 450 with the modified airbox yet. 

 

Might have to get out my jigsaw-cutter and just start slicing recklessly! 

 

8^)-

I think I have found the best air box mod possible! Just take the boot off of your carb and let that sucker breathe pure unfiltered air!!!

Pro circuit pipe spark arrestor. I didn't like the spark arrestor that the pro circuit pipe came with as it was like a quite core insert and they don't make a performance model. So I ended up getting a FMF 4.1 spark arrestor and carefully cut off the rings that hold the screen on without ruining the screen. Then found a perfect piece of 1 1/2" muffler tubing at Autozone on the shelf that got pounded in the end of the exhaust. I left a little bit of an overhang in case it needs to come out with vice grips.

image_zps3qf74mrs.png

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