billyg371

Picked up a 14' 450 today!

23 posts in this topic

So I finally got around to picking up a used 14' 450! The bike is bone stock. Bought it from a older guy who rode it very little. Hooked the tuner up to it and it has 10.2 hours on it. Sold my 2011 RMZ 450 for a really good price and got this bike for an awesome deal!

 

Is there anything I should do right off the bat? I already added the following: Works connection clutch perch, ARC brake lever , Pro Taper fusion bars and grips, I purchased the steel engine mounts but didn't install yet. I am heading to Club Mx tomorrow to ride it for the first time. Im going to try the stock engine mounts first and then try the steel ones.

 

Any way here are some pictures!

 

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Larger front rotor would have been my first purchase. The stock clutch lever is great. Good feel and a good ratio, never understood why anyone would spend money on levers unless you 'had' to replace them or they served a specific functional purpose...

Suspension and chassis balance would be another critical area I would work on... (proper spring rates, valving, sag , fork height, oil level etc etc)

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Larger front rotor would have been my first purchase. The stock clutch lever is great. Good feel and a good ratio, never understood why anyone would spend money on levers unless you 'had' to replace them or they served a specific functional purpose...

Suspension and chassis balance would be another critical area I would work on... (proper spring rates, valving, sag , fork height, oil level etc etc)

 

I've always used stock levers but my Suzuki came with the works connection so I took it off and kept it before I sold the bike. Decided to throw it on this bike. I guess ill find out tomorrow how it works. Sag has been set to 105mm wanted to try the stock suspension before I revalve and or change springs. Larger front rotor will most likely be in the near future. Ive always used braking o/s rotors seemed to work great. I like the motostuff 280mm because its not a floating rotor.

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I just bought a low hour 14 myself and the gytr tuner. How do I check the hours. Im dying to know what this bike has on it!

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I just bought a low hour 14 myself and the gytr tuner. How do I check the hours. Im dying to know what this bike has on it!

There is a monitor function or something like it that shows hours. The tuner manual explains it. Apparently it can be reset, which sucks.

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The choice of front tire is tremendously dependent on soil conditions, and while the MX32 is a good tire in its appropriate environment, I'm not sure the conditions in North Carolina are much the same as Florida.  I finally gave up on Dunlop front tires and went to a Bridgestone M203, but again,  I live somewhere else, too.

 

My advice for people who live where I don't ride is to check out what the fast guys in the neighborhood are running on theirs.  There's a reason for what they choose and stay with.

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Gray I'm curious to hear your observations of the M203 vs the MXx32 front.  I had X40's on my 450 and they did decent, when brand new, but did not last at all.  Especially the rear.  I've had Dunlops start shedding sideknobs in the front way too quickly.  I think you ride similar terrain/soil.

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SoCal Deserts; a wide ranging variety of sand, gravel, silt, hard pack and rocks that there never seems to be a really good tire for.

 

To be fair, I haven't used an MX32, but I have used the MX51 and MX31, and a host of other Dunlops prior to that.  The M203, in a 90/100x21, BTW, holds noticeably better than any of the Dunlops to begin with, and hasn't gotten shredded by anything yet.  The thing I really like about the tire is that it does not "stick until it lets go completely" like a street tire from the '70's would.  You can feel the slip coming most of the time, and when it slips, you can recover it more of the time without having it totally disconnect. 

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Good info, thanks!  What kind of pressures are you running with the 90 width?  Tubes/Mousse/Tubliss?

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This is after I rode Saturday and Sunday. Looks like I got a pretty good deal after all

 

The hour count on the ECU can be reset to zero any number of times.  Just sayin'.

 

Could be accurate, though, too.  

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Well guys I got some riding in this past sunday and wow! Bike is awesome. I am going to do some suspension tweaks for sure because it is definitely stiff! First purchase will be the oversized rotor. Just need to find one that I want to dump 300 bucks on. Motostuff is nice non floating rotor, or the batfly by braking is another option. What do you guys have? The person i bought the bike from never had a tuner so my hours are true and after the weekend it has 12.4 on it! Im very happy with my purchase!

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Well guys I got some riding in this past sunday and wow! Bike is awesome. I am going to do some suspension tweaks for sure because it is definitely stiff! First purchase will be the oversized rotor. Just need to find one that I want to dump 300 bucks on. Motostuff is nice non floating rotor, or the batfly by braking is another option. What do you guys have? The person i bought the bike from never had a tuner so my hours are true and after the weekend it has 12.4 on it! Im very happy with my purchase!

 

I would bleed and refill with a NEW bottle of DOT5 fluid.

 

After you follow the procedure (fill from the bleed hole on the bottom) zip tie the lever to the bar overnight.

 

You will have a rock solid front brake if you do this correctly

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I would recommend:

  • Radiator braces (i have works connection )
  • Skid plate
  • Gytr magnetic oil bolt is pretty cool
  • Re route the gas vent through the air box and out the top
  • Sag / Spring settings

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Could you elaborate on the brake fluid refill, where are you suggesting to fill it? On the bottom of what exactly? Sorry Im not familiar with this bike at all

Edited by BobBelcher

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I don't recommend using DOT 5 fluid.  The bike is built with DOT 4.  DOT 3, 4, and 5.1 fluids are polyethylene glycol based fluids, while DOT 5 is a silicone base.  Using DOT 5 in a DOT 3 or DOT 4 system without proper flushing can cause damage to the seals and cause brake failure.   DOT 5 brake fluid absorbs a small amount of air requiring care when bleeding the system of air. All in all a bad idea.

 

Besides which, the issue you're having with the front brake will not likely be resolved by bleeding simply because it isn't caused by air in the line.  Quite a few people feel like the front brake is under-powered, and bleeding won't fix that if that's the case.  The surest cure is an oversize rotor. 

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Yamaha has never had stellar front brakes. I bought a 14' YZ450 brand new off the showroom floor last summer and its front brakes are pretty week.

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