Help! Broken oil filter drain bolt.

i just purchased a new 2002 426 after my buddy retired my 1993 ktm 300 (40 ft wheelie in a truck very bad). Anyway, I also purchased a new torque wrench which I set for 7 ft lbs. to properly torque in my oil filter drain bolt (the real long one!), but the damn thing never went off. Basically I snapped off the bolt and there is about a 1/2 inch of it still in the motor. I know this is a very bad thing. Are there any solutions other than taking the whole engine apart.

Thanks for the help,

simon

Originally posted by neyezar:

i just purchased a new 2002 426 after my buddy retired my 1993 ktm 300 (40 ft wheelie in a truck very bad). Anyway, I also purchased a new torque wrench which I set for 7 ft lbs. to properly torque in my oil filter drain bolt (the real long one!), but the damn thing never went off. Basically I snapped off the bolt and there is about a 1/2 inch of it still in the motor. I know this is a very bad thing. Are there any solutions other than taking the whole engine apart.

Thanks for the help,

simon

You need to use a bolt extracter. You drill a small hole in the center of the part that is left in the case. Then you tap the extracter in the hole, and you turn the bolt out with the extracter.

Then get a new torque wrench and a new drain plug, and you are in good shape. :) ~Hitman~

I had a similar problem with a bolt in the oil filter cover. It snapped off deep inside, torque wrench failure. It was too small for me to drill a hole then extract so I took it to my local bike shop and they took it out with no problems. The Oil drain plug I stripped because I wasn't using a torque wrench. Bad Bad Bad. My local shop came to the rescue again and preformed "helicoil" surgery. hehe

Works fine now. If you want to try extracting yourself, you can buy an extractor at your local hardware store. Only a few bucks. You'll need the proper size drill bit also which the guy/gal at the store can help with. Keep breathing and don't panic, the patient will be just fine.

Good Luck

Wej

I had the same problem with the cheap POS torque wrench I bought at Checker Auto Parts. Luckily mine snapped off and left about 1/8" sticking out that I was able to get my vise grips on and remove it. Do yourself a favor and go to Sears and buy a good one. It's worth it in the long run.

KC

I will second the idea for a good torque wrench. When I see that the name brand wrenches are all over $60 and then you see one at the auto parts store for $19.95 that tells me that you get what you pay for. I got my wrenches at Sears and have been very satisfied.

If it is the long bolt, chances are that you are going to need to remove the right side engine cover to get at it. This is very simple and there is nothing behind there that will jump out at you. You can probably reuse your gaskets. I have twice. You will loose your coolant.

My advice is to be as precise as you can and center punch what is left of the bolt. Then DO NOT drill until you get your hands on a left handed drill bit. They are the only ones to use in broken bolt extractions. Conventional drill bits tighten the bolt as they drill. I have remove many broken bolts with left handed drill bits. Many of them back out during drilling and you never even need a screw extractor. But, if you do need a screw extractor, atleast you haven't made the bolt any tighter while drilling.

I hope this helps and take my advice on the left handed drill bits. It pays to have a set.

HEED WYATT'S ADVICE!!! DO NOT EVEN ATTEMPT THE DRILLING W/O A LEFT HANDED BIT! Furthermore, don't buy the 'few dollar' cheapo extractor, it will break off in the hole leaving no 2nd chance. I learned the expensive way! ( and it only took 3 or 4 times ). Just like cheap torque wrenches which GUARANTEE busted bolts/stripped holes cheap extractors CAUSE more damage than they fix. A good set will COME with matching L.H. drill bits and will pay for themselves if you do any amount of wrenching. Good luck.

Thanks for all the help. A new torque wrench is on order. I will be taking my beast into the shop. My bike is too new and the bolt too deep for me to start trying my extraction technique. All of your input has been greatly appreciated. See you at the track.

- simon

Craftsman(Sears) sells a neat little set of extractors that don't require predrilling. You simply select one of four sizes that generaly fit the size shank you wish to remove, then center the bit on the broken shank, give it one or two sharp taps with a hammer, and then remove. The bit ends are made such that all they need is a small indention to grasp onto. Neat, clean, and fast.

Go with Wyatt's advice! Every time i attempted to use a conventional bolt extractor it broke off inside the hole, and once this happens you have a hardened steel piece that you can't drill out.

Go with Wyatt's advice! Every time i attempted to use a conventional bolt extractor it broke off inside the hole, and once this happens you have a hardened steel piece that you can't drill out.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now