Shirley, I can't be the only one...

who has a bike that acts like a jerk when starting.  My 2014 WR450, which has the programmable ECU, snorkels removed, and the GYTR exhaust tip acts like a total butthole when it comes to starting.

 

Cold--3-4 bumps of the e-button (button out) and letting the pump stop running between bumps.  Or, kick it once.

Hot--one bump if "El Jerko" has been shut off for about 30 seconds to 2 minutes.

Stall it under compression?  Forget it.  I can push that button all mother-loving day and after 7 or 8 tries, it might light off.  I tried the "hold the slack out of the throttle" trick I read and the backfire was a really neat little cloud.  OR, I can kick it 2-4 times.

 

There are times, God help me, that I want to push the button until my finger bleeds, the battery explodes, or the starter motor blows up.  It's like that line from Tommy Boy where I want to yank the wheel into a gol'darn bridge abutment.

 

Does anyone else's bike act like a jerk?  Mine has done this from day one, and is slightly worse after I had the CO level bumped to +8.  I think the battery is a weak piece of monkey sh!t too.  Trickle charging it makes no difference.  Clean air makes no difference.

 

There are times when I really hate this bike and love this bike.  I shoulda' bought a 2-smoke.

,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

Edited by J_YZ2fittyF

You make no mention of using the high idle to start it (pull the knob..), setting your idle correctly (2100), servicing the fuel pump filter (every 100 hours) , servicing the injector nozzles (every 100 hours), setting your TPS to spec (day one), or doing a harness and sprarkplug and lead test....so maybe there's your problem ??

 

EDIT

 

SORRY, really tired and crabby last night.

Edited by KRANNIE

Shorai battery

valves?

I have the same starting issues you have and similar mods. My idle is set to 2200, FMF core 4 muffler with the FMF map, snorkel removed, CO set to + 5 or something around there, and this thing does not like to start if stalled unless I kick it. I also have a shorai battery, it helps a bit but it's not significant. It has been like this since day one so I don't think it has anything to I with the fuel filter or injectors being dirty.

I have not done anything to the TPS though. What could be done here?

Mine is setup very similar and had similar starting problems. I bought the EFI tool and it took me quite a while to get it dialed in, but in the end I ended up setting the CO to -10 and now it starts great for the most part. Once in a while it will give me trouble, but I have found that that holding the throttle wide open and cranking for a second or two solves the problem.  I also went with the Tusk Lithium battery  from Rocky Mountain. It didn't solve the hard starting issues but it does seem to crank better  and longer.

Krannie, It's been like this since day one.  I'm at about 60 hours and only run non-ethanol hi-test through it.  My opinion is that Yamaha bollocks'ed it up.  I do use the cold-start button, idle is ~1950-2000 rpm.

 

I partly think it's the crappy battery and partly the stupid fuel injection/carbon monoxide battle the computer wages internally.  The bike runs great, it starts like crap.  I haven't set the TPS--thanks for the tip and I will look it up in my manual.

 

Alleviate my stupidity--a minus setting on the CO means richer/easier starting and a plus setting means leaner/harder starting? I'm easily confused.

 

I'm gonna test the battery, too.

A minus setting is leaner. Allot of guys have better luck with a richer setting (+) and I tried that at several different levels but the higher I went the worse it got and guys riding behind me could smell the fuel in my exhaust so I started going the other way. 

 

My guess is that not all comp. ECU's are same and/or whatever map you are running for the rest of the throttle settings has an impact on the 0 setting.

Krannie, no worries.  I was tired and cranky after riding my bike yesterday afternoon!

 

I thought the programmable ECU had little/no effect on the FI map at zero throttle, which is why we monkey with the CO setting.

 

Slow and Jerky--do you have your own CO tool?  I get to pay $20 at the dealership just to 'try' some different setting, so I want to fix it right and fix it once.

 

Thanks, everyone.

I do have the tool, I had a feeling it wasn't going to be a one shot deal to get it dialed in.

Krannie, It's been like this since day one.  I'm at about 60 hours and only run non-ethanol hi-test through it.  My opinion is that Yamaha bollocks'ed it up.  I do use the cold-start button, idle is ~1950-2000 rpm.

 

I partly think it's the crappy battery and partly the stupid fuel injection/carbon monoxide battle the computer wages internally.  The bike runs great, it starts like crap.  I haven't set the TPS--thanks for the tip and I will look it up in my manual.

 

Alleviate my stupidity--a minus setting on the CO means richer/easier starting and a plus setting means leaner/harder starting? I'm easily confused.

 

I'm gonna test the battery, too.

 

If I had a problem bike with the potential for a fix I would own the F.I. tool and a Shorai or other high power battery. The higher power batteries crank faster. Then do whatever setting it takes for it to start. The GYTR tuner does say it only works from 1/8 throttle up. The TPS might be something to check however it's likely in the range. The Bass mechanic also posted on starting issues and said to hold a slight bit of throttle as in almost past the slack. But you should look up that post.

no you are not the only one ......and don't call me Shirley

stevethe, it's funny because I read that post about just taking up the cable slack yesterday morning before I went riding. when I tried it, that was when I encountered a most awesome puff of smoke out the tailpipe.

Following this thread. I have a buddy who will be checking here shortly. He is having issues with his WR450. No start issue. Hopefully you can collaborate a resolution.

Thanks for the link morphrider! I will bookmark this to watch for new ideas. I have tried all mentioned ideas except for messing with the "throttle position sensor". It is however, still in line with factory paint markings so....LOL

 

I think Nuklhed should feel somewhat greatfull that his will start at all. hahaha That would be so neato!

stevethe, it's funny because I read that post about just taking up the cable slack yesterday morning before I went riding. when I tried it, that was when I encountered a most awesome puff of smoke out the tailpipe.

You probably got that puff because the bike was flooded and when you cracked the throttle, you had restored the compression enough to get the bike to light off after having cranked and cranked filling the cylinder up with fuel.

You might be a good candidate for a decompressor pin modification.

If you like you can pm me bad I'll ask my mechanic if you can send your cam to him to modify and I bet he can for a small fee and some shipping fix you up for good.

If you want to also get some power out of your bike he can re degree the cam sprocket at the same time and your bike will run like a scalded cat!

Edited by Bass Mechanic

Bass,

Thanks for the offer and information.  I'm going to wait until the motor needs work before I ever take it apart.  I'm lazy and wanna ride.

I think I've found the elusive "Gasoline-Spot" on my throttle.  I'll abbreviate.  Using this technique, I was able to find the "G-spot" yesterday once or twice.  It still eludes me, but I'll keep trying.  I think the "G-spot" is the solution to all my problems.

 

Thanks everyone.  I'll go back to shutting up.

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