Has any one used the new timing chain adjusters for the YZF450? Are they any good?
Manual adjusters? Have a link?
Why would there be a need for one?
to keep the timing chain tight but not experence the ware and deflection of the hyd. one.
I have a CO. name it's Utah Crankshaft and Short Block email@example.com
The stock adjuster is not hydraulic in the first place, and is rarely the cause of either any failures or any undue wear. It's probably one of the most elegantly simple and effective designs used in any engine ever. It's driven only by a light coil spring, and operates on the solid principal that a worm gear cannot be pushed backward.
The only reason to use a manual adjuster on a YZF is if you were intending to build a very high output engine like a flat track bike using cams and springs much more aggressive than stock. Otherwise it's just something to spend money on and a potential engine failure of it isn't frequently and correctly maintained.
There is a very high HP road racing YZ and that is the only one that I know of that must use the manual tensioner. I have been using the stock ones for years with no issues.
I have been hearing that you have a lot of timing chain problems and have to replace them or they will jump timing, is that true or not?
Timing chains are like anything else. Run them until they develop a defect and you'll have trouble. In all of them that I have seen jump time, one of two things has happened; either a camshaft has completely or partially seized, or the chain has developed stiff and binding links. Either of these is more likely a result of failure to maintain the oil as needed than of anything else.
The chain stiffens as a result of foreign material getting between the plates, or from scoring or galling taking place between plates, or from the formation of rust between the plates in engines that tend to sit unused for several weeks while using an oil with poor corrosion inhibition abilities. I replace my own timing chains every 12-18 months, and I have yet to remove one that has any tight links or significant wear. I've pulled them out of other people's bikes where there wasn't a single free link left in them. There's no logic in the assumption that the 12 or 15 cam chains I've replaced were "just lucky" and the others weren't. There's a pattern, and it has nothing to do with the stock tensioner, and everything to do with lube.
Thank You I plan to use Amsoil 10/40 and change regular.
I've pulled them out years later and they looked fine.
Yes, so have I. It's just so cheap and easy to change them that I do as a maintenance operation. I have a somewhat unscientific "study" going on in the cave-like hovel that passes for my work shop. My last timing chain has been hanging on a peg there for almost a year and a half with only the residual coating of oil it had on it when I pulled it out. Next to it hangs a chain from another engine that was starting to stiffen here and there, also with the residual oil that was being used in that one. Mine is still free and supple, the other has gotten worse just hanging there, which is one of the things that raised the speculation that it could be corrosion related, though there is no rust on it externally.
I've never known exactly what to make of the difference.
Then I'm not going to even think about it, again thanks for the info.
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