Post your woods built YZ's

I recently picked up a 2010 YZ450F. I believe MX bikes make great offroad bikes, with a few mods. That being said I am slowly building mine for some riding in G.W.N.F. this spring. I haven't built one for offroad riding before, I usually ride as is.

I thought it would be cool and informative to start a thread where everyone that trail rides a YZ can post their bikes and list the mods.

So far I have an IMS 2.4 gallon tank, 2006 WR450 pivot link (for lowering), and trimmed seat.

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Hand guards and flywheel weight, haven't got to far yet lol.

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ProTaper Windham bars, Cycra hand guards, Scott's steering dampener, IMS 3.1 gallon ghost fuel tank, one tooth up on rear sprocket, DID X-ring gold chain, 18" rear wheel, ProMoto billet spark arrested end cap, suspension by MotoPro Suspension. Jetted properly. 2006 YZ450F. Maxxis Desert IT tires. Does pretty well in the woods but I think excels in the desert.

My crappy old '99 400.

 Bought it dirt cheap. Rebuilt the forks, new plastic and seat cover, 12 tooth front, new tires, '05 450 carb, Acerbis big tank and plastic, bark busters, decomp exhaust cam swap, kick stand. Keeps up with my 3 sons just fine. 

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This is my '13 from the 2015 race season, its undergoing winter maintenance & makeover right now for the 2016 season and will look quite different in a week. Not too many mods, just an 18" rear wheel, Acerbis fuel tank, Rekluse zStart Pro (which was previously installed in my '06 then my '08 and now in my '13), suspension by TBT Racing (awesome), hand guards and radiator braces. SXS Slide Plate made of UHMW polyethylene is super light, strong, and does not reflect engine noise. Also have the Lexx carbon fiber endcap with spark arrestor on stock exhaust.

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Edited by Wiz636

This is my '13 from the 2015 race season, its undergoing winter maintenance & makeover right now for the 2016 season and will look quite different in a week. Not too many mods, just an 18" rear wheel, Acerbis fuel tank, Rekluse zStart Pro (which was previously installed in my '06 then my '08 and now in my '13), suspension by TBT Racing (awesome), hand guards and radiator braces. SXS Slide Plate made of UHMW polyethylene is super light, strong, and does not reflect engine noise. Also have the Lexx carbon fiber endcap with spark arrestor on stock exhaust.

Does the 18" wheel make a big difference? What gearing do you run with it? I've read a bunch of people switching to and 18", just curious.

The 18 allows a lower air pressure to be run without banging the rim on the deck.  Better low speed traction in rocks/roots, etc.  Doesn't change the gearing because the tires are the same height as the 110/90 x 19 or the 120/80 x 19.

Dirtbike21.jpg  2011 YZ 450f Has a skid plate but i took it off in the pic. Most of this stuff was on it when i Bought it

IMS 3 gallon tank

1 inch taller than stock cushion seat ( Im 6'3 )

Cycra Hand guards

Scott steering stablizer in box but not on bike yet

High pressure rad cap

Twin Air Filter

1 inch lowering kit for Rads

Kickstand

Gytr Fuel Tuner

FMF full exhaust Titanium i think 

 

 

EDIT: Almost forgot- Full Rekluse system. Upgraded recently to the exp 3.0 plate inside

Edited by F0Xryder61

The 18 allows a lower air pressure to be run without banging the rim on the deck. Better low speed traction in rocks/roots, etc. Doesn't change the gearing because the tires are the same height as the 110/90 x 19 or the 120/80 x 19.

Ahhh, sort of like a knobby trails tire. I'll have to look into that in the future. I have a brand new tusk impact wheel on now.

Ahhh, sort of like a knobby trails tire. I'll have to look into that in the future. I have a brand new tusk impact wheel on now.

 

That would be a big 'sort of' but yes, that is the general theory. The extra 1/2" of sidewall between the rim and the ground allows more flex to better absorb rocks and roots and lets you get away with lower air pressures, but a knobby will never be as flexible as a trials tire.  That said, I just got the new Kenda Equilibrium trial/knobby hybrid tire...looking forward to trying it out.

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WoW very nice race weapon !!!!!

I'm jealous !!!

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1451870056.788252.jpg

Here's my "woods built" 2011 on a local EnduroCross training course.

My mods are, from front to back, Acerbis rotor guard, SealSavers, Polisport LED headlight and taillight, Cycra Composite hand guards and skid plate, Renthal RC High bars, Moose Racing radiator guards, IMS 2.4 gallon tank, GYTR off-road flywheel, SDG custom tall step seat, 18" wheel (Warp9 front and rear), Bib Mousses, 50 tooth rear sprocket and o ring chain. Suspension101 revalved and sprung for Enduro use. I also have loaded the Yamaha "slippery conditions" map. Not installed in the photo is an Acerbis chain guide.

I have but was not necessary for the trail are Ebay sourced Chinese built radiators and silicon hoses. I have not overheated on a ride with OEM rads just needed to replace a punctured radiator.

Edited by WouldsAssassin

Here's my 2011.  2.4 gal tank, "Woods Map", Tubliss rear, Lowered oil level in forks by 10cc's. Other than that it's all stock.

 
 

http://s1288.photobucket.com/user/cpetz24/media/735195_1172975342732025_3341672634901185263_n_zpsjnwu2nfr.jpg.html

 

 

With the WR450 Pull rod, did you notice a significant difference?  I just was reading about this the other day and was looking into doing the same thing. 

 

I recently picked up a 2010 YZ450F. I believe MX bikes make great offroad bikes, with a few mods. That being said I am slowly building mine for some riding in G.W.N.F. this spring. I haven't built one for offroad riding before, I usually ride as is.

I thought it would be cool and informative to start a thread where everyone that trail rides a YZ can post their bikes and list the mods.

So far I have an IMS 2.4 gallon tank, 2006 WR450 pivot link (for lowering), and trimmed seat.

With the WR450 Pull rod, did you notice a significant difference? I just was reading about this the other day and was looking into doing the same thing.

Huge difference. Before the link it measures 39.5" at the tip of the rear fender. After I put the WR link in, it dropped down to 37.5". Also the geometry is different so the rear is a lot softer and you'll have to reset your sag.

One more thing, you can get a use link for like $20 on ebay. And you will use your YZ bushings and shims with the WR link, assuming it's all in good condition. Way cheaper than the lowering links out there and works exactly like the yamalink.

Huge difference. Before the link it measures 39.5" at the tip of the rear fender. After I put the WR link in, it dropped down to 37.5". Also the geometry is different so the rear is a lot softer and you'll have to reset your sag.

One more thing, you can get a use link for like $20 on ebay. And you will use your YZ bushings and shims with the WR link, assuming it's all in good condition. Way cheaper than the lowering links out there and works exactly like the yamalink.

Lowering links typically make the suspension stiffer. 2in is a huge drop and on a more current YZF platform would make the bike handle like crap without some serious work, ie, triple clamps, forks raised in clamps, sag etc etc.

Acerbis front rotor guard, renthal fat bar RC high bend, cycra hand guards, Unabiker rad guards/braces, twin air air filter, factory fx gripper seat, ricochet skid plate, promoto billet kick stand, hammerhead designs kick start lever, enduro engineering rear rotor guard, renthal chain and sprockets (52/13), TM design chain guard, and M7 designs graphics.

Still need the IMS fuel tank and it should be done.

ImageUploadedByThumper Talk1451922947.848291.jpg

Lowering links typically make the suspension stiffer. 2in is a huge drop and on a more current YZF platform would make the bike handle like crap without some serious work, ie, triple clamps, forks raised in clamps, sag etc etc.

2" drop in the rear, front socks moved up about 10mm, sag set, and bar risers. Suspension was softened, way softened. This was a race bike when I got it. A local racer had it set up for MX, think his name was Ronnie Vance. So it was pretty stiff before the link. Now it's a lot squishier. I don't race, only trail ride and it handles great on tight technical stuff and fast single track. A pro might have different opinions on it but I am a short fat guy and really like being able to touch the ground with both feet. The bike feels like an old KLR, but half the weight. Edited by SAKs YAMAHA

2" drop in the rear, front socks moved up about 10mm, sag set, and bar risers. Suspension was softened, way softened. This was a race bike when I got it. A local racer had it set up for MX, think his name was Ronnie Vance. So it was pretty stiff before the link. Now it's a lot squishier. I don't race, only trail ride and it handles great on tight technical stuff and fast single track. A pro might have different opinions on it but I am a short fat guy and really like being able to touch the ground with both feet. The bike feels like an old KLR, but half the weight.

I can only imagine how shocked you would be to ride a bike setup properly...

I can only imagine how shocked you would be to ride a bike setup properly...

What should I do to make it "proper"? I rode this bike before messing with the suspension. I have ridden friends bikes set up for MX, Hare Scramble, Enduro, etc. I still like being able to touch the ground. If you have any suggestion for me to make it better, let me know.

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