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RiderDeAzul

5th gear progress

18 posts in this topic

After fiddling with jetting and my 5th gear still having sputtering issues, I decided to try it with the tps unplugged, I can now run about 1/8 throttle without sputtering but anything more I get the sputtering, does this possibly mean that my tps just needs plugged in again and adjusted?

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2007

 

 

Ahh, so it is normal? It feels sort of violent to me haha, did it get rid of the stuttering for you by disconnecting the TPS?

No if you do a lot of street riding the Dynatek ignition does the trick.

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No if you do a lot of street riding the Dynatek ignition does the trick.

 

I will probably never really use 5th gear, as I ride off-road mainly, but it just really really annoys me knowing that it does that. Is the ignition easy to install, just plug and go?

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I will probably never really use 5th gear, as I ride off-road mainly, but it just really really annoys me knowing that it does that. Is the ignition easy to install, just plug and go?

Dial it to the torque map plug it in and go.

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Holy crap $350, maybe I'll just deal with the sputtering, thanks for the help though, I noticed my brother's bike does not have TPS, is it only on the enduro type bikes?

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No the YZ also has a throttle position sensor. However the issue with the WR is it tries to go between two maps and stutters. Disconnecting the TPS helps some.

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Holy crap $350, maybe I'll just deal with the sputtering, thanks for the help though, I noticed my brother's bike does not have TPS, is it only on the enduro type bikes?

 

If you actually have ignition 'stutter', it will do it in 3rd, 4th or 5th gear, at partial throttle openings.

If you jet the bike really well for right off idle (precise fuel screw adjustment), and adjust your tps for lower resistance (about .5 - .6 ohms) you can minimize the effect.

The problem is in the ECU on the 2007- 2011 WR only. 

The ECU on the YZ does not have the same problem, but you cannot transfer it over.  You have to use the dyna tek ECU. 

 

What also is common is 'chain slap' against the swing arm, which also causes a stutter effect.

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What do you recommend for chain slack? I'll try adjusting my jetting and attempt to adjust tps tomorrow

 

Follow the manual's recommendation

 

Or, do it the 'tension measure' method:  Get the swingarm pivot, countershaft, and rear axle in a straight line (use tie downs or some friends sitting on the bike, or remove the shock) and set the chain to a light tension at this (the longest part of the swing arc ). Now take the weight off, put the bike on a stand, and measure chain slack from a known/repeatable spot. 

 

You can make a spacer out of wood to use for quick measurements rather than a tape measure.....

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Just read the AP sticky and was wondering if the accelerator pump would have anything to do with this also, if there is a possibility of that I might as well do that when I mess with my jetting and chain.

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Well, my friend and I have both decided that it feels electronic, any ideas? (The chain didnt work and tps unplugged didn't make much of a difference either)

Also does anyone know what this hole is/ what it is for? It occasionally leaks coolant but only when cold.

Edited by RiderDeAzul

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You did not attach a pic, but you are probably referring to the weep hole under the water pump

 

You really need to download a service manual....

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You did not attach a pic, but you are probably referring to the weep hole under the water pump

 

You really need to download a service manual....

Yes, that's what it is, I am just confused as to why it does not leak when I am actually riding, but only when idling after a cold start, I'm guessing it is probably the seals, but I figured I'd ask here first.

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