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whoops dude

Front brake woes

4 posts in this topic

Alright crew,  I got another one for you. I installed new pads on my front brake and also threw in a caliper rebuild kit while I was at it. Re-installed everything on the bike and now I'm trying to get everything situated with no luck. I mounted the caliper and started the bleeding process but the caliper pistons are not moving. I'm getting brake fluid flowing through via the bleeder screw but the pistons aren't moving to push the brake pad  near the rotor. What am I not doing right?

 

Full disclosure this is my first time working with the braking system.

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1. you need to compress the caliper piston all the way in using a c-clamp or similar. Bleed the piston chamber like you bleed the brake system (using the bleeder valve)

2. you need to pass the oil through via suction or pressure. Gravity will take you a day or two to bleed the system. The Mighty Vac system works great

3. put teflon tape on the bleeder threads, or you will go insane.....

4. pumping the lever to bleed the brakes does not work....unless you have several free hours....you only pump the lever to check to see if the air is gone and if you have pressure

5. the handlebar should be turned to the left, so the MC is higher up

6. after all this, pump the lever a dozen times, and zip tie it to the bar overnight to get the last remaining stubborn bubbles to rise up and out

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1. you need to compress the caliper piston all the way in using a c-clamp or similar. Bleed the piston chamber like you bleed the brake system (using the bleeder valve)

2. you need to pass the oil through via suction or pressure. Gravity will take you a day or two to bleed the system. The Mighty Vac system works great

3. put teflon tape on the bleeder threads, or you will go insane.....

4. pumping the lever to bleed the brakes does not work....unless you have several free hours....you only pump the lever to check to see if the air is gone and if you have pressure

5. the handlebar should be turned to the left, so the MC is higher up

6. after all this, pump the lever a dozen times, and zip tie it to the bar overnight to get the last remaining stubborn bubbles to rise up and out

Leave it to Krannie  :worthy: . Thanks for the rundown

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1. you need to compress the caliper piston all the way in using a c-clamp or similar. Bleed the piston chamber like you bleed the brake system (using the bleeder valve)

2. you need to pass the oil through via suction or pressure. Gravity will take you a day or two to bleed the system. The Mighty Vac system works great

3. put teflon tape on the bleeder threads, or you will go insane.....

4. pumping the lever to bleed the brakes does not work....unless you have several free hours....you only pump the lever to check to see if the air is gone and if you have pressure

5. the handlebar should be turned to the left, so the MC is higher up

6. after all this, pump the lever a dozen times, and zip tie it to the bar overnight to get the last remaining stubborn bubbles to rise up and out

Turns out I had the washers on the bottom banjo bolt on one side. Rookie mistake  :facepalm: . I got fluid moving and there were no more air bubbles coming out of the bleeder valve into the tube. The thing is that my lever is not as firm as I would like it and feels like I have to pull it in almost all the way for good stopping power. Is this where zip tying it to the bars overnight comes into play?

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