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Yamaha651

14? 15? Or 16?

27 posts in this topic

I have been looking into this too. The 14-15 isn't as big a difference from the 15-16. The 15 highlights are mapping, sprocket and engine mounts. The 16 highlights are; new cams, bigger brake, different triple clamps, and softer shock spring. I left out some minor things but you'll have to figure out what the savings are and how much it would cost to upgrade the parts. If you get the 14 then you can likely get away with a re-map, oversized rotor, 15 motor mounts and a longer linkage arm (dropping the back without changing the fork offset. Those will set you back about $500-600 if you can borrow a mapping tool. So if you save $2000 buying the 14 then you're still ahead by $1400.

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The 16 seat height(.4")  and pegs are lower than the 15. I've ridden a 14 and a 16,the 16 turns better than the 14 and the stock mapping is better. The 16 stock is a more refined version of the 14-15 . A really dialed package right off the showroom. The stock forks kill ktms stuff.

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It 2yrs newer, the 16 has a better feel to it and I'm not on a budget , both are good bikes one needs some work the other doesnt. I liked the 16 better . I need to run a little taller seat  1/2" (bad knees).  On the 16 with the taller seat its  equal to the stock height of the 15, and the  pegs are lower stock. I like to get as new as possible.Go ride them, I 'd buy a 15 over a 14 if the 16 was out of the budget. I think yamaha has a deal on the 15s . The 14-16 are a much better package than 10-13 or older yzfs I've had a lot of yzs 04,07,08,10. Cheapest price for new 14 in cailf.I saw was $8400.Friend got one of the 1st ones(16) in san diego paid $8800 OTD.

Edited by galligar

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So next year you will have a 2014 with 40 hrs on it or a 16 with 40 hrs on it. How much more is the 16 worth than the 14? At least a grand, probably closer to 1500. So in the long run the 16 only cost you 500 to own over the 14.

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where are these 6800 OTD new never ridden 14 yzs?

i just did one in Michigan old for 7000. 6% tax in Michigan.
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Yea looking on cycletrader, in Tx & Ok, I seen some listed about $6500!!

Brad...... Ya got a good point! Did you get a 14?

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The depreciation will be significantly less on the 14 vs the 16...

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I had the 14 and loved it after playing with the GYTR tuner. But, someone said earlier that the 16 will be worth more in a year or two. I'm waiting on my 16 to come in now. I buy new every two years. Less head ache and higher resale!!!

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Yea looking on cycletrader, in Tx & Ok, I seen some listed about $6500!!

Brad...... Ya got a good point! Did you get a 14?

yes the 14

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I had the 14 and loved it after playing with the GYTR tuner. But, someone said earlier that the 16 will be worth more in a year or two. I'm waiting on my 16 to come in now. I buy new every two years. Less head ache and higher resale!!!

what map are you running?

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I was running the MXA mapping for the most part. But did find the GYTR sand map worked good at altitude with a little added fuel on the bottom. To keep the deceleration pop away. We are around 3500 ft above sea level & MXA map works almost without a problem.

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If you are only going to keep it 2 years a leftover will depricate less. In 2 years a 14 you paid 6k will be worth 4k. A 16 might be worth 5k. You lose 1k. Is it worth ot to you is the question?

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I was running the MXA mapping for the most part. But did find the GYTR sand map worked good at altitude with a little added fuel on the bottom. To keep the deceleration pop away. We are around 3500 ft above sea level & MXA map works almost without a problem.

the more fuel I take away the better my bike runs. I always run +2 on ignition

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So, I bought a 14, May of 14 for $7800 and rode it for all of 14 & 15 season. I just sold it for $6500. So how would I loose more than $2000? Blue book on the 14 retails for $7000. So, really if I pay 6k on a new 14 or 8k for a new 16 is the question. I loose less on the 16 in 18 when I'm buying a new one!!!

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Brad, it is ok to take fuel away to help performance. There is a point that you can be fuel lean and hurt the motor performance. What elevation are you at??

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So, I bought a 14, May of 14 for $7800 and rode it for all of 14 & 15 season. I just sold it for $6500. So how would I loose more than $2000? Blue book on the 14 retails for $7000. So, really if I pay 6k on a new 14 or 8k for a new 16 is the question. I loose less on the 16 in 18 when I'm buying a new one!!!

He's saying of you bought a new 16, you will lose more in depreciation then if you bought a 14.

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I understand what he is saying. But I buy a new bike every two race seasons and really don't take a bad hit on them. It's easier to pay 2k for a new bike, then buying a holdover model that is value is less when it's time for a new bike.

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