My "New" Plated WR400F

I just picked up a plated '99 WR400F!  It has been a 1 owner bike for the last 10 years and is clean and straight for its year.  Other than needing a suspension rebuild and a full coverage skid plate it is ready to ride. 

 

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It is a surprisingly good starter but I do have plans for a YZ450 cam (and new cam chain and tensioner for peace of mind) and a remote hotstart.  Does anyone have experience with putting a remote hotstart on this bike?  It looks like a few companies used to make a kit for this bike but it looks they are not available anymore.  I am thinking that a universal clutch lever/hot start assembly and a standard remote cable would be able to work??

 

And if the bike turns out to work for me I will probably be looking into a larger fuel tank.  From my research it looks like the WR400 had a different tank/shrouds/seat from the YZ400.  There looks to be more aftermarket options for the YZ400 so I may go that route.  How does the YZ/WR426 body work compare?  Will the 426 tank/seat/shrouds bolt onto my WR400? 

YZ400/426 Tank and seat bolt right up. Shrouds are the same.

Still looking for a little advice on a remote hot start. 

 

I was doing some Ebay browsing and found a NOS Terrycable setup: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Hot-Start-YZ-wr2-4-1998-2000-/271577819398?hash=item3f3b4ca906&vxp=mtr

Looks cheesy.

 

Looks like Motion Pro still offers a remote cable style: http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/articles/view/2551/cable__black_vinyl__hot_start__01-0703/

 

But is still looks like I should be able to adapt a newer style lever hotstart on my bike.  Sure I am have to space the valve back to deal with the different cable angle but the plunger seems the same: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/2011-11-Yamaha-YZ-250F-Clutch-Perch-Clutch-Lever-Cables-Hot-Start-Free-Ship-/321829700551?hash=item4aee8b83c7&vxp=mtr

 

Has anyone adapted a newer style lever remote start to this vintage of bike?

I have a '99 I got back in late '99 and about the only time I need to use the hot start is when the bike has been on it's side for more than 15-20 seconds allowing it time to get good and flooded.

 

 Even then it usually starts right back up with just a kick or two. If not, it is real easy to just reach down and pull out the little red button located on the carb. I use it so infrequently I do not think it is necessary, or worth the cost to have it re-located on the handlebar.

 

 Mine too is plated.... and since I have others equipped with a button, I tend to use this one more for dual sport rides anymore. Also, They are a HOOT for running errands around town!

Got some good news with the ol' WR and got it plated and registered.  It is hard to get dirt bikes plated here and I was a little worried that it wouldn't go through but everything went smoothly.

 

So it was time for some TLC.

 

First thing on the list was some new fork seals:

 

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The bike came with a Yamaha seal/bushing kit plus a bottle of S1.  FYI one bottle is not quite enough to do both forks. 

 

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I had a billet upper triple clamp with 1-1/8" bar mounts kicking around in my parts bins for years. 

 

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Installed the upper clamp, a used Protaper RM Low bar and some old Factory 909 hand guards that were better shape than the Acerbis that came off. 

 

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This will not be my final cockpit configuration as the RM Lows are too, well, low.  And the 909 hand guard mounts are a weak design.  But this will get me riding.  The old GYTR 7/8 that came off the bike were very bent.  I lubed the clutch cable and replaced the smashed adjuster. It's better but still stiff.  I will replace the clutch cable, clutch perch and lever (very worn) and throttle cable/tube this winter.  There is nothing that makes a bike feel clapped out quicker than worn controls.  And the wiring harness will need to be totally redone this winter also. 

 

Pulled off the worn AC10 and threw on a used Goldentyre GT230.  That AC10 is one heavy tire.  I also pulled the Pirelli XCMS off the front and installed a Goldentyre GT213 that was a little better. 

 

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I did the rear pads at the same time.  The bike came with fresh pads.

 

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I did notice that the shock linkage bearings are NFG.  I will add those along with a shock oil change onto the winter to do list.  I also mityvac'd the front brake.  It's better but I have been spoiled by KTM's in recent years.  I am not sure which direction to go with the front brake.  I will try and sort out a cheap upgrade from somewhere. 

I have a '99 I got back in late '99 and about the only time I need to use the hot start is when the bike has been on it's side for more than 15-20 seconds allowing it time to get good and flooded.

 

 Even then it usually starts right back up with just a kick or two. If not, it is real easy to just reach down and pull out the little red button located on the carb. I use it so infrequently I do not think it is necessary, or worth the cost to have it re-located on the handlebar.

 

 Mine too is plated.... and since I have others equipped with a button, I tend to use this one more for dual sport rides anymore. Also, They are a HOOT for running errands around town!

Agreed. Once the idle and fuel are adjusted correctly you will rarely need to use the hot start.

Congrats on the bike by the way! I just picked mine up a few months ago and have been riding every day since!

I got the WR out on some single track that I know pretty well for some first impressions.

 

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The engine is good and torquey.  Not a powerhouse but totally usable.  Front forks were surprisingly decent.  I swear they are better than the stock forks on my last plated dirt bike, a '10 KTM 450EXC.  Rear suspension was ok but needs a rebuild.  I will have to do something with those bars asap.  Way too low.  Very uncomfortable to stand with.  And the worn out clutch cable/lever made things a little tough in the tight spots. 

 

As far as the hot start I will agree with the previous comments of the bike not really being used much, until I hit 4000' and above.  In the higher elevations it liked the hot start.  I am still going to look into adapting a newer style clutch/hot start assembly.  That with an auto decomp cam will make things much easier in the 1st/2nd gear trails. 

 

All in all a great old plated dirt bike for the price. 

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