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rojapar

Yz450 for a woods bike

54 posts in this topic

First, I want to say thanks to "Olhillbilly" on here for showing me around today on some pretty good trails.

 

I really struggled in the gnarly stuff with the 450 however.  If there was anything real technical and rough, I had to slip the hell out of the clutch to keep my line and the engine from dying, or else just focus on where I wanted to end up and hammer the throttle.

 

It seems first gear is really tall and the fact that the bike has no bottom end torque made it real difficult, coupled with the fact this is the first time I have hit the trails in over 20 years. Going under ten or so miles an hour, the bike just kept wanting to stall out and die.

 

Im running stock gearing, loaded on the MXA map, and have on a GYTR fww.  The bike is a 2014.  Is there anything I can do to make it more trail worthy short of going with a recluse.  I was thinking going up a couple teeth on the rear sprocket, and messing with the map.  What would you want to do, map wise, to give it some more low end chugging power?

 

As far as handling and suspension, I think the bike did great.  If it had a little more tractor type power, I think it would be perfect for me.

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Yeah. I'd start by adding a couple of teeth on the rear. The Rekluse Core exp3 in 450's is awesome though  :ride:.

 

I don't use them for their anti stall capabilities. I use them for their fun factor and speed in tight ST. If you do get one, Get the "Core".

 

Best upgrade you can do to a 450 for off road IMO. Big Fan! You know you want one.

Edited by AddictedToBling

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More low end chugging power on a Yamaha 450? Add a couple teeth to the rear sprocket (stock is 49) and that should bring the power down a bit. Honestly, add a Rekluse. If it a money issue, I understand why you wouldn't but if it's an ego thing, get over it. The bike's respond well to a Rekluse and make for a considerably easier time riding in the bush...

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More low end chugging power on a Yamaha 450? Add a couple teeth to the rear sprocket (stock is 49) and that should bring the power down a bit. Honestly, add a Rekluse. If it a money issue, I understand why you wouldn't but if it's an ego thing, get over it. The bike's respond well to a Rekluse and make for a considerably easier time riding in the bush...

 

Been riding for 40 yrs and I'm riding a 144cc ATM. I know how to use a clutch and have never had any Issues with stalling any bike. I wouldn't own a 450 without a Rekluse.

They don't just make the bike "considerably easier to ride in the bush", they also make the bike more fun to ride. 

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I can't afford a recluse right now.  I'm going through the big D and barely have enough for Ramen Noodles and gas money...not a pride issue at all.

 

I found I bought the wrong tool for the job.  I originally wanted that KTM 300 but they had the yz450 for 6200 out the door, so I bought it without doing any research.  I just assumed a single cylinder 450 would be like a tractor.

 

I love the rest of the bike however.  I weigh 250 and just adjusted the compression and rebound and it works real well for the woods without doing anything else.  Handling is also real sharp...I have no complaints chassis wise.  If I had to complain, I wish it was an inch or two lower.

 

I'm going to have to live with it for at least three years, so I'm just gonna have to work with what I got.  I can donate some plasma and get a new sprocket and play around with some different map settings, but just can't do the recluse right now, unless there is something else that doesn't cost much.  I was reading last night where some guys were turning up the idle speed, but I'm afraid it would overheat.

 

PS Monk, I put on the Galfer HH pads.  They helped quiet a lot.  I can slide the front wheel on pavement now with a good squeeze.  They are now plenty strong for my application.

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I can't afford a recluse right now.  I'm going through the big D and barely have enough for Ramen Noodles and gas money...not a pride issue at all.

 

I found I bought the wrong tool for the job.  I originally wanted that KTM 300 but they had the yz450 for 6200 out the door, so I bought it without doing any research.  I just assumed a single cylinder 450 would be like a tractor.

 

I love the rest of the bike however.  I weigh 250 and just adjusted the compression and rebound and it works real well for the woods without doing anything else.  Handling is also real sharp...I have no complaints chassis wise.  If I had to complain, I wish it was an inch or two lower.

 

I'm going to have to live with it for at least three years, so I'm just gonna have to work with what I got.  I can donate some plasma and get a new sprocket and play around with some different map settings, but just can't do the recluse right now, unless there is something else that doesn't cost much.  I was reading last night where some guys were turning up the idle speed, but I'm afraid it would overheat.

 

PS Monk, I put on the Galfer HH pads.  They helped quiet a lot.  I can slide the front wheel on pavement now with a good squeeze.  They are now plenty strong for my application.

 

Couple of teeth on the rear should do the job :thumbsup: .

 

BTO have the "Storm" Lowering links on sale ATM. $70.00 :jawdrop: .   http://www.btosports.com/p/StormFL

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Couple of teeth on the rear should do the job :thumbsup: .

 

BTO have the "Storm" Lowering links on sale ATM. $70.00 :jawdrop: .   http://www.btosports.com/p/StormFL

Thanks.  When putting on a lowering link like that, do you have to also raise the forks up in the triple clamps?

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Change the bike to a "Woods Map" if they make that for the '14.  I don't know if you can just use what is on TT for the 2010-2011 bikes or not but maybe some searching on your specific model will turn something up.  

 

I was having the exact same issues when going to a F.I. 450 thumper (mine's a 2011 YZ) and I just changed the mapping to the Woods Map and it changed the whole attitude bike.  I went from stalling it fairly consistently to rarely ever stalling it and not having to use the clutch near as much.  The bike now lugs and pulls much smoother and allows me to run a taller gear through the woods and not be so much up on the pipe and out of control.  

 

I did also go up to a 50T rear sprocket, but that didn't make as much of a difference as changing the map did.  It was a free mod that I would try first before you go throwing money at Flywheel weights and Rekluses.  Most shops will do it for free or for little to nothing if you just take the specific map that you want to them. 

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Thanks.  When putting on a lowering link like that, do you have to also raise the forks up in the triple clamps?

 

Don't know if you should to be completely honest, But I did a fraction  :lol: .

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Change the bike to a "Woods Map" if they make that for the '14.  I don't know if you can just use what is on TT for the 2010-2011 bikes or not but maybe some searching on your specific model will turn something up.  

 

I was having the exact same issues when going to a F.I. 450 thumper (mine's a 2011 YZ) and I just changed the mapping to the Woods Map and it changed the whole attitude bike.  I went from stalling it fairly consistently to rarely ever stalling it and not having to use the clutch near as much.  The bike now lugs and pulls much smoother and allows me to run a taller gear through the woods and not be so much up on the pipe and out of control.  

 

I did also go up to a 50T rear sprocket, but that didn't make as much of a difference as changing the map did.  It was a free mod that I would try first before you go throwing money at Flywheel weights and Rekluses.  Most shops will do it for free or for little to nothing if you just take the specific map that you want to them. 

I have a tuner and can do it myself, but I have not ran across any maps for a 14 that's are more geared towards woods riding.

 

What did your map look like compared to the stock map?

Edited by rojapar

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Stock map is all zeros.  You could try the 2010-2011 map and see what it does and if you like it .  Worst case scenario you press a few buttons and change it back to the map that you had in it.  Just make sure you record what you had to start with.   

 

Woods Map  (courtesy of "greyracer")

Year Model: 2010 YZ450
Posting or Edit Revision Date: 1/7/10
Pipe/muffler: Stock
Significant Mods (cams, etc.):None
Altitude Range: unknown
Temp Range: unknown
Humidity Range: unknown
Type of Use (Track, Trail, Desert, etc.) Woods racing

Fuel Injection (FI)
+4 +4 -3
+4 +4 -4
-3 -4 -4
Ignition (IG)
-3 -3 -3
-3 -3 -0
-3 -3 -3

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This is what I'm running right now:

 

FI

333

443

443

 

IG

222

332

222

 

That is a lot of different, but ill try anything.

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Don't know if you should to be completely honest, But I did a fraction :lol: .

I've seen it suggested that when using a lowering link on the 14 YZ the forks should be raised in the clamps by around 5mm.

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I've seen it suggested that when using a lowering link on the 14 YZ the forks should be raised in the clamps by around 5mm.

 

Yep, about 5mm. I lower them to flush again when I ride sand though.

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I recently got a new guy with a 2015 YZ450F riding with us on tight woods trails.   He too was having trouble with stalling.   At my suggestion he put a 12 tooth sprocket on his bike.   We also had to turn up the idle speed.   He said it was a different bike once we did this.  It starts better and no more stalling.

 

All the Yamaha FI 450Fs in our group are running 12 tooth sprockets now.  Nobody thinks they are geared too low and everyone is doing well in the tight and technical trails we ride. 

 

I highly recommend the Yamaha FI 450Fs for 200+ pound riders.  I'm riding a WR, but I wouldn't shy away from a YZ at all.

 

We ride with a bunch of 300cc 2 strokes and more and more the other riders are saying they are getting "4 stroke envy".  Properly set up, the 450Fs are keeping up with the 300s in the tight and twisty stuff.   There is lots of terrain where the 450s are easier, smoother and less taxing to ride., at least for our level of riders, on our terrain. 

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I recently got a new guy with a 2015 YZ450F riding with us on tight woods trails.   He too was having trouble with stalling.   At my suggestion he put a 12 tooth sprocket on his bike.   We also had to turn up the idle speed.   He said it was a different bike once we did this.  It starts better and no more stalling.

 

All the Yamaha FI 450Fs in our group are running 12 tooth sprockets now.  Nobody thinks they are geared too low and everyone is doing well in the tight and technical trails we ride. 

 

I highly recommend the Yamaha FI 450Fs for 200+ pound riders.  I'm riding a WR, but I wouldn't shy away from a YZ at all.

 

We ride with a bunch of 300cc 2 strokes and more and more the other riders are saying they are getting "4 stroke envy".  Properly set up, the 450Fs are keeping up with the 300s in the tight and twisty stuff.   There is lots of terrain where the 450s are easier, smoother and less taxing to ride., at least for our level of riders, on our terrain. 

 

JFYI. Running a smaller front sprocket just makes the engine work harder. You'd be better off running 13/50-ish

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Rekluse , skidplate , and a better front brake makes this bike a wicked woods bike, aside from any suspension work or other personalization.

 

The Rekluse, first and foremost, and ditch the FWW when you put it in.  There are deals out there so just keep your eyes peeled.

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I'm running 13/49 which is stock '14 gearing. 13/48 (stock' 15) is a little too tall. Having the Rekluse is the ticket...

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