So what's the proper way to break in the rotor??
Ride it. Rotors don't need break in. As for the original post. The difference between floater and solid is best explained on motostuff.com site. Basically moto adopted the floater system from road race bikes. Floating rotors allow heat to dissipate faster., but mx front brakes don't generate enough heat for this to make a difference. Also on road bikes the caliper is solid mounted to the forks so the floating allows for flex in the rotor. Mx calipers are the opposite so in mx the caliper and the rotor both move causing less braking force.
Been using the Galfer 270 and SS line on my bikes, makes a big difference. But stock yami sucks anyways.. just getting a decent set of pads will make the bike stop better.
Heat cycle. Bring the bike up to speed in first, hit the brake. Ride around for a bit to let the rotor cool, then do the same thing. Being bike up to speed, etc etc. You need to set the pads into the rotor. After about 5 times you should be good to go. They will get a bit more powerful throughout a ride too...
Floating rotors do not dissipate heat any better, and in fact maybe worse, being that they don't have a direct conductive path to the hub. What floating does is it prevents, or helps prevent, the rotor from loosing its flatness when it gets hot by not binding it to a rigid center. It also allows a rotor that may actually be deformed by heat to move around on its center so that it tracks straight through the caliper in spite of slight distortions.
"Break in" for brakes is 95% for the benefit of the pads. The rotor doesn't really care.
So just ride it . Cool
Here is a few more
Did just that last year...
Did just that last year...
Link goes to a flywheel weight for sale for some reason. I'm assuming you have to change at least the brake line along with the caliper due to the banjo being located differently, right?
Just curious, when you squeeze the lever with your kit, can you look down and see the rotor move a couple mm inwards? I'm concerned the O/S kit on mine has something squirrely with the alignment, or the pins aren't sliding freely.
Caliper gets moved with a bracket, brake line uses same dimensions.
I use the tusk on my 14 yz450 and have been very happy with it. Noticeably better than stock.
If you ever plan on running a headlight, I suggest buying a brake line for a wr. I had a heck of a time trying to route the oem line around the light until I bought the longer wr line.
I have been running the Tusk 270mm rotor for a year now, was hesitant on the brand but most of the "Tusk" rebranded
parts have proven to be very very good.. (Tusk tools.. pass, they are poor)
Cost was the main reason (needed 2 fronts and one rear)
I just ordered the Galfer kit and some Galfer pads, can't wait to get it installed and see how it works!
I thought about the Tusk, and it had some good reviews, but decided to go with the Galfer kit even though it wasn't a floating setup. Looks great, has great reviews, and should work great for a vet guy like me.
Edit: Must have got it just before the $120 sale ended, looks like it's $135 now from Rocky Mountain. Sweet.
I've read posts that the stock front line (mine is a 2014) is stainless, and others that said that it isn't. I believe I read a post where grayracer513 said that it was, so I believe it.
If it is, but most people say to replace it, is it because it is ss but just not high quality? One thing that can typically be said for OEM is that it is high quality, so a bit confused I guess. Is the stock like ok, or should it be replaced?
Apparently, they actually are not braided stainless wound. They are a very high quality hose, however, and unless they get old and tired, switching to SS doesn't make an enormous difference on a newer bike.
Thanks, good info.
I'll try the rotor out and go stainless if I feel the need. The odds are that at my level I won't need to.
I'm waiting for my 280mm moto stuff oversized kit to come in the mail pretty keen to see how much of a difference it makes never had an oversized rotor on any of my bikes
280mm, wow. I only went to a 270mm kit. Sweet.
I'm looking forward to trying mine out. My only previous experience was the brake upgrade I did on my 2000 KX500. I went with an EBC 280mm kit, along with sintered race pads and a Ride Engineering CR-style ss line. Wow, what a difference on the old technology that came on that bike.
Our bikes have better brakes, so I expect it to be better, but not as much of a difference as my KX500 had.
Yer got it for a bargain put it on tonight so will try it out tomorrow see if it makes much of a difference
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