Rear Shock Oil Level?

Hi All,

 

Any one has information about oil levels in a 2012 WR450F rear shock?

 

Also, i can not see the gas valve... where it normally is there is only a metal plate or a cap, is it under that cap or this shock does not work with gas..?

 

Thanks

 

Oran 

Might want to pick up a service manual...

Yes always a good idea...

Hi All,

 

Any one has information about oil levels in a 2012 WR450F rear shock?

 

Also, i can not see the gas valve... where it normally is there is only a metal plate or a cap, is it under that cap or this shock does not work with gas..?

 

Thanks

 

Oran 

 

 

Oil level should be completely full, you don't want any air in the rear shock (other than what is in the bladder).

 

On the new WRs there is no schrader valve unfortunately. There is just a small hole in the metal cap that goes to a rubber valve in the bladder (think a valve on a football). I used a hypodermic needle to discharge mine, but had to take it to a shop to have it filled. Plus, not having the schrader valve gives you absolutely nothing to pull on to get the cap off (after you remove the retaining clip of course).

Oil level should be completely full, you don't want any air in the rear shock (other than what is in the bladder).

 

On the new WRs there is no schrader valve unfortunately. There is just a small hole in the metal cap that goes to a rubber valve in the bladder (think a valve on a football). I used a hypodermic needle to discharge mine, but had to take it to a shop to have it filled. Plus, not having the schrader valve gives you absolutely nothing to pull on to get the cap off (after you remove the retaining clip of course).

 

Ok i would not have figured this one out... so theoretically i can feel it up if i can find a way to connect my high pressure pump to a hypodermic needle... 

There are "needle type" nitrogen fill needles available just for this operation.  The advantage of the needle setup is that it eliminates the need for a "no-loss" chuck for the Schraeder valve (and it's way cheaper to produce :excuseme: )

 

Shock oil must be filled and bled free of air through a detailed procedure.  You won't find it in the manual everyone wants you to get (even though you should have one) because Yamaha doesn't want owners messing with rear shocks.  But here's one way:

 

http://fullthrottlemc.us/docs/YZ-WR_ALT_SHOCK_REBUILD.pdf

There are "needle type" nitrogen fill needles available just for this operation.  The advantage of the needle setup is that it eliminates the need for a "no-loss" chuck for the Schraeder valve (and it's way cheaper to produce :excuseme: )

 

Shock oil must be filled and bled free of air through a detailed procedure.  You won't find it in the manual everyone wants you to get (even though you should have one) because Yamaha doesn't want owners messing with rear shocks.  But here's one way:

 

http://fullthrottlemc.us/docs/YZ-WR_ALT_SHOCK_REBUILD.pdf

 

:ride:  :ride:   Thank you Grayracer!!!  :applause:  :applause:

 

Any idea where i can purchase this "needle type" nitrogen fill needles...?

:ride:  :ride:   Thank you Grayracer!!!  :applause:  :applause:

 

Any idea where i can purchase this "needle type" nitrogen fill needles...?

 

If you are really in Cambodia, I'm not sure what your options are:  I built my own tool and described it here: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1129062-diy-nitrogen-fill-tool/

If I may ask here without derailing the thread - if I plan to send my suspension off for work, is there any benefit to buying a YZ 18mm shaft shock and sending that off, or should I just stick with the stock WR 16mm?

 

I'm thinking of going back to the WR open bath forks and going with the Smart Performance WR Phase 4 kit (that's the only way I'd use those forks again probably - been reading a lot of good things about the SP Phase 4)...but really not sure what direction to go since I'm currently running 06 YZ SSS forks up front on the WR and they've been great.  But the shock and overall balance needs help.

There is an advantage to the 18mm shock shaft, but it's mostly in strength, and using one requires a small amount of modification.  Just a little.  If it was me, I would (and have) stay with the 16mm shaft, just for the simplicity.

 

The Phase 4 conversion for the WR fork is really quite phenomenal considering what you start with, and it really does end up being a great front fork.  However, IMO, the SSS already is a great fork, and only gets better when tuned.  You can get about the same results from either, and some guys feel like the open bath design makes a better off-road fork, but it really is hard to beat an SSS fork.  You could do either, but I think that I would stick with the SSS myself and work with that.

If you are really in Cambodia, I'm not sure what your options are:  I built my own tool and described it here: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1129062-diy-nitrogen-fill-tool/

 

Yes i am in Cambodia, what people normally do here, and i know it is not ideal, is putting normal air with high pressure pumps...

Hmm.  No idea why the difference. But if it works with Yamaha, it will at least work with all KYB's (Kawasaki, etc.)

 

Air, as you mentioned, is not ideal, but it is 70% nitrogen, and if it's pumped through a reasonably good dryer/filter, you'll get rid of most of the water in it. 

Hi guys! how many miles,, need to change the oil in the rear shock?

Hmm.  No idea why the difference. But if it works with Yamaha, it will at least work with all KYB's (Kawasaki, etc.)

 

Air, as you mentioned, is not ideal, but it is 70% nitrogen, and if it's pumped through a reasonably good dryer/filter, you'll get rid of most of the water in it. 

 

Cool, thanks again!

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