New 2015 yz450f, New Rider, I'm short , she's tall

Guys, Im pretty new the dirt bike game, grew up with them but have mainly been on my Gsxr1000 for the last 10 years and ready to go back to dirt. I picked a 15 YZ450F and a YFZ450 in the last couple months. To get to the point, what suspension settings do you recommend for a 5'8" 200lb rider for the YZ, Mostly for track not much on the trails. I hear a lot about sag lowering links and fork adjustments, just looking to settle in on this thing. Thanks in advance !

Lowering it internally is the only option if you want to maintain a a balanced bikes...

If I were you I would not lower it. I am about 2 inches shorter than you and I am glad I left mine stock after debating lowering it. I would not want to lose travel of suspension. Sprung/valved for your weight and ability will make it easier to ride.

The height doesn't bother me very often anymore.

I have a '14. 5'11" with short legs. Height of the bike only bothers me on the starting line.

Guys, Im pretty new the dirt bike game, grew up with them but have mainly been on my Gsxr1000 for the last 10 years and ready to go back to dirt. I picked a 15 YZ450F and a YFZ450 in the last couple months. To get to the point, what suspension settings do you recommend for a 5'8" 200lb rider for the YZ, Mostly for track not much on the trails. I hear a lot about sag lowering links and fork adjustments, just looking to settle in on this thing. Thanks in advance !

JGR has an adjustable sub frame. Might be worth looking at.

I'm 5'9". My other bike is a 13 FE250 that the PO had lowered an inch internally. I am going to pull it apart and restore it to stock height. It bottoms out if you look at it the wrong way, and I only weigh 145lbs. Lowering a bike is just a crutch for people who can't ride

I'm 5'9". My other bike is a 13 FE250 that the PO had lowered an inch internally. I am going to pull it apart and restore it to stock height. It bottoms out if you look at it the wrong way, and I only weigh 145lbs. Lowering a bike is just a crutch for people who can't ride

You do realize almost every pro lowers their bikes right .

A gratuitous assertion.  Not buying.

You do realize almost every pro lowers their bikes right .

 

:lol:

So I guess JGR makes and sells adjustable subframe because they need the money.

So I guess JGR makes and sells adjustable subframe because they need the money.

 

That doesn't affect the suspension at all. It lowers the seat height only by shortening the lower portion of the subframe. 

Well that's sort of what I meant.Your still lowering the bike but I guess I should have explained it better for the simple minded on TT

You can drop the comments like "simple-minded" immediately, thanks.  If you want to argue semantics, I'm sorry, but lowering the bike and lowering the seat are not interchangeable terminology, and lowering the bike is a bad bet for the reasons stated.

 

Lowering the sub frame has its limits, too, because eventually, the fender starts contacting the tire deep in the stroke.  It's pretty simple, really.  If you have a 27 inch tall rear wheel, and you raise it into the rear suspension 12", that gives you a minimum of 39" above the ground for anything that goes above the rear wheel at the top of the tire. 

OP set your sag to 110mm and drop your forks 5-8mm in thr triple clamp. Otherwise the suspension is set up for your weight already, you shouldn't have to do anything other than play with clickers. And remember small adjustments, never more than 2 clicks

What's the best way to set the sag?

Before you try, do this:  No one has reported a problem yet with a '15, but some with earlier models in the '10 -'13 have had the lock rings seize to the shock body and have had to clean up the threads once they finally got the thing apart.  Avoid this by taking the precaution of spraying the rings and shock body with a penetrating oil product like PB Blaster 12 hours prior to adjusting.  :thumbsup:

 

To set the sag, measure from axle to a point on the sub frame while the bike is lifted off the ground on a stand, then with your weight seated in the normal position.  The best way to measure is with someone else holding the bike while you stand on the pegs, putting as little weight as possible on the handlebar, while a third person measures.  That makes it more repeatably accurate.

 

BTW:

 

set your sag to 110mm and drop your forks 5-8mm in thr triple clamp.

 

This is exactly the same as leaving the fork at its full length and setting the sag at 105.  The only difference is the bike is 5mm lower one way than the other.

This is not the same, the sag is different and will make it handle different

Not really.  All the geometry is identical in either case.

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