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SMP

Easier clutch pull!!

40 posts in this topic

In the March 2002 Motocross Action Mag. on page 118, it shows how to lengthen a 426's clutch arm to give an easier pull. They extended it using some scrap steel and a wirefeed welder. The extension was exactly 5mm.

I am going to take my actuator arm to a welder I know and have hime extend it for me, I will let you guys know how much it cost and how much of a difference it made.

They said in the article that Team Yamaha also does this trick.

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Wouldn't it be nice if someone manufactured this piece as a replacement part vs. taking the chance of messing up the original????

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The Bike shop that I own is going to start Manufacturing these arms. I am in the process of putting this mod on my 01 426. I will have the updates posted here and on my website www.jmrpowersports.com The arm only costs about 35.00 from the factory, so the modified version should not be very much more expensive.

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Have you thought of an "Easy Clutch"? I got one a few years back and have since transfered it to my 426 with great results. I think I got mine from white bros. but there is several places selling them. I think the cost is around $35, it just works in-line with the clutch cable. No messing around with welding, etc.

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I just picked up my new clutch cover gasket and some oil, I am going to give the arm extension a try. Let you know how it goes.

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I have my clutch arm on order, but in the mean time I drilled an alternate hole in the clutch lever to aid in leverage. It was a great and easy modification. Anyone can do it. If you have any question email or pm me.

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One widely overlooked point is the hole in the lever that the barrel end of the cable goes into. I rarely see bikes with any evidence of any type of lubrication here. You'd be amazed at how much this can help. Most people think the cable gets pulled straight out but it doesn't. The end of the cable is intended to twist in that hole. A bit of grease will do amazing things for the pull effort.

The only problem with an easy clutch or Raptor lever is they may not disengage the clutch fully If you can deal with that, they are a viable alternative. I'll stick with my hydraulic clutch.

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98yz has it. I just drilled my lever out today and relocated the cable barrel closer to the pivot point. Made a big difference! Then lubed it all, including the barrels with TriFlow...very nice feel. Here are some pics. http://photos.yahoo.com/bc/escrowdog/lst?&.dir=/Clutch+Lever&.src=ph&.view=t&.last=1

I used a 21/64 bit for the main barrel hole, then an 1/8 bit to drill out and smooth the area where the cable pulls through. Careful not to drill the main hole too deep. It's free and worth a try!

I'm wondering if this combined with longer clutch arm is going to be too much...in other words will there be a long enough pull to fully disengage the clutch?? If it does work, let us know!!

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I also bought the MSR Raptor perch and lever. I thought about having the actuator lengthened, but opted for the easy way out. My local dealer had it in stock. I bought the normal length lever, not the shorty. I'm old-school, and still use three or four fingers on the clutch. The Raptor makes a BIG difference. Highly recommended.

Pros and Cons:

Lengthened actuator uses stock levers...easily accesssible

Raptor costs $39, replacement levers $24...definite con

Actuator requires much more work; removal, modification, re-installation.

Cool "works"-like parts with actuator...priceless in the bench racing sessions!!

Dennis

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I have a copy of that article.

My friend and I are going to do it to ours.

I also just ordered the GYT-R clutch perch and lever. Had one before and I liked it.

I'll keep you informed.

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Just picked up my extended clutch arm from the machine shop, they charged me $20 (and did it in an hour), my gasket came off clean and I needed to change the oil anyways.

It took 15 minutes to get the part off and should take the same to put it back. I will post again to let you know how it feels.

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Doing the actuator arm is quite easy if you have a welder. I did the actuator arm mod with the 5mm of extra lenght. I also lubed my cable. And the last mod I did to it was, to put three RC truck wheel bearings in my clutch lever. By knocking out the brass sleeve they will fit right in. But you do have to file down the lever arm bolt a little. All the mods for the clutch cost me $10.00. And it has a light pull. Has anyone tried playing a round with YZ 250 clutch springs. They are supposed to be a little lighter than the YZF springs.

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Well, I got it all back together, took a little longer to reassemble, due to torque specs and I had to paint the part of the actuator arm I had welded.

Drove around the block a few time and it does seem to have helped a little bit, if I had to give a percentage, I would say about 20%, not a big deal, but will help. 20% for $20, not too bad.

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