Uncorked the bike, now bike dies

Hello all,

I just purchased a '14 WR450 and opened the air box, new filter and pipe and now the bike dies everythime I give it gas. What is a good map for these changes?

Lots o great maps but you need to swap out ECU to the GYTR comp unit as the stocker is locked. Under $100. Search for the "WR maps only" thread and you will need access to a GYTR power commander. Then you will prolly need to bump up CO levels with FI tool. Search "starting issues". Once these lean issues are sorted you will have a great bike. Where in CA are you?

Edited by guru

I will be picking up the comp ecu tomorrow. Thank you! Guru I'm from hollister but in the valley now

Anyone have a pic of the throttle stop? I can't seem to find it in the manual.

Put in the ecu and air box mod throttle stop and a FMF slip on and just put in the FMF map and you should be good to go.

So I have the air box mod and throttle screw done. Waiting on the FMF slip on and comp ecu which I pick up tomorrow. I'm getting excited.

Question, when the dealer brought the bike out I noticed the coolant catch tank under the rear fender was empty. On my '07 WR, it was filled to the line, is that supposed to stay empty?

So I have the air box mod and throttle screw done. Waiting on the FMF slip on and comp ecu which I pick up tomorrow. I'm getting excited.

Question, when the dealer brought the bike out I noticed the coolant catch tank under the rear fender was empty. On my '07 WR, it was filled to the line, is that supposed to stay empty?

No, The catch tank is suppose to be filled to the fill line.

*Try and get the dealership to load the FMF map with the GYTR Tuner so you'll be good to go.

Thats what I thought, but the mechanic said it was supposed to be empty lol.

I already have the tuner, just waiting on the ECU. I will search the threads for the map right now.

Between 500-5000 feet, I know that seems like quite a range but since I got the bike in December I have been all over. What I really like is that I can tractor up  loose steep hills and have the power under control but still able to pull  3rd gear wheelies when I feel like it. I have stalled it on a couple of hills that I would never have been able to get up without going all the way back down and trying again on my carburated YZ.

Thank you! Comp ecu came in yesterday so I'll put the mapping in today.

Can anyone recommend a good FI tool brand? I just spoke with the yammie dealer service tech and he had no idea what a FI tool or CO level was.

So, I have removed the air box snorkle and throttle stop screw, added a GYTR FMF slip on, comp ECU with the following map:

3 4 4 0 0 0

3 5 3 -2 -1 0

3 4 3 -2 -2 0

I took her for a short ride today after throwing the FMF on and I had some popping on decel. I am not savvy with adjusting the mapping so any advise would be helpful.

I have not yet adjusted the CO levels as my yammie service tech does not

Know what that is and I do not have an FI tool.

Cheers,

B

So, I have removed the air box snorkle and throttle stop screw, added a GYTR FMF slip on, comp ECU with the following map:

3 4 4 0 0 0

3 5 3 -2 -1 0

3 4 3 -2 -2 0

I took her for a short ride today after throwing the FMF on and I had some popping on decel. I am not savvy with adjusting the mapping so any advise would be helpful.

I have not yet adjusted the CO levels as my yammie service tech does not

Know what that is and I do not have an FI tool.

Cheers,

B

 

The popping on the decel is the low part of the RPM circuit...it is the CO level that is making the bike too lean.  That's the final adjustment needed.  Take it to another service place...the obe you are using should know this info and have the tool.

I used a sniffer to adjust mine that didn't really work all that great. I ended up just adjusting it by ear more or less. I think I am somewhere around ten clicks to the left. You pull the the air bleed knob (the thing that looks like a choke knob on the throttle body) out and turn it, I'm not sure what you call it but it feels like a clicks. I messed with it until I got it to e-start relatively easy.

The GYTR tool does not adjust anything below 4,0000

You need the Dealer Service Tool for that.

I used a sniffer to adjust mine that didn't really work all that great. I ended up just adjusting it by ear more or less. I think I am somewhere around ten clicks to the left. You pull the the air bleed knob (the thing that looks like a choke knob on the throttle body) out and turn it, I'm not sure what you call it but it feels like a clicks. I messed with it until I got it to e-start relatively easy.

If I am not mistaken, that's the idle adjustment knob as well.

If I am not mistaken, that's the idle adjustment knob as well.

Yes it is, when it's in it adjusts idle and out adjusts CO2

I did not know that. That's good to know. So don't need an FI tool to adjust the CO level?

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