New to the WR world!

Hola fellow riders of the WR.  I've recently scored a '07 WR450 from my father in law, he bought it new, babied the heck out of it and made the poor choice of selling it to me.  Granted I rode the heck out of some quads for the last 10 years, it's been a solid 25 years since i've owned a dirt bike.  Needless to say, jumping back in the saddle of a dirt bike is not "just like riding a bike" as the saying goes.  Rode it twice without a hitch, went for a day trip to the dunes, with a paddle of course, with my teenage sons and promptly crashed, knocked myself out and received a concussion.  

The following week I did a 50 mile poker run, and the poor bike was on the ground in the mud more times than 5 guys should wreck in a year.

 

As for mods: bike is stock with the GYTR de-restriction kit in place, including GYTR needle jet, and MSR adjustable air/fuel screw. Gearing is still stock, suspension is stock but needs some adjusting as it hops around like a pogo stick, which I attribute my dune incident to. 

 

So, I have a few things that need a little attention and fixing.

1.  Fork seals now leak, i've already found a kit to buy and have a friend that's easily paid off 12 oz's at a time, so I've got that covered.

2.  Tires are pretty shot, Any recommendations for tires for riding in the pacific northwest.  Lots of rocks and mud.

 

Any recommendations, questions, comments, concerns, constructive criticism are welcomed.

 

thanks-

medic

Get a Racetech gold valves or other decent base valves for your front forks the stock set up is dangerous and welcome to the new world.

With the technology and adjustability, what makes the WR fork setup dangerous? Are the factory valves any different than YZ valves? Is this a common practice among Yamaha owners?

My riding style will primarily be offroad trails throughout the western part of Oregon.  When the weather is nice, probably a trip or 2 to a buddies track at his house.

My plan was to order a pivot works seal kit and just replace them.

I was planning to reset the suspension back to factory settings, measure out the sag and such and make adjustments from there.

With the technology and adjustability, what makes the WR fork setup dangerous? Are the factory valves any different than YZ valves? Is this a common practice among Yamaha owners?

My riding style will primarily be offroad trails throughout the western part of Oregon.  When the weather is nice, probably a trip or 2 to a buddies track at his house.

My plan was to order a pivot works seal kit and just replace them.

I was planning to reset the suspension back to factory settings, measure out the sag and such and make adjustments from there.

 

 

Different than YZ base valves yes yes yes. They are garbage they consist of a spring and two shims. The spring is suppose to act as the shims. It quickly gets sacked out and the forks blow through the soft part of the initial travel and ride on the mid stroke which is harsh. Every time you gas it the forks come up when you hit a corner they blow through the base spring and down they go. Adding a washer to the two shims only allows a little time and it gets sacked again.

 

There are many such posts on the subject here is one of them showing you the difference. http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/683007-08-wr450-fork-valves/

YZ base valves don't fit however some people have modified the stock base valve for a real shim stack. Ricky Johnson of Too tech suspension has done it.

Two other things I would buy factory quality type seals from racetech or other. Also if you know how to take apart the forks are mechanical and know how to use some calipers it's pretty easy to DIY with the Racetech valves.

I've already purchased a rebuild kit from pivot works. As for the valving, i'll start saving my pennies and buy some good valves.  I recently took the bike to a local mx track, I was able to mess around with the clickers and get it to at least stop bouncing around like a pogo stick.

In my quest to get the suspension properly adjusted for me, I need a good starting point with the clickers.  Anybody know what the factory yamaha settings are for these?  I'll be spending some time measuring and checking the sag, as for the front, if it has too mach sag or not enough sag, aside from the obvious of lose weight or gain weight, are my options just to replace the springs to get the appropriate amount of sag??

Read all all the pinned posts at the top of the forum

Suspension suspension suspension should be your first mod... Set the bike up for your weight and ability... You can't go fast on a pogo stick and in the sand you feel like a plow pushing everything. Check out race techs website. I think a stock wr is set for a 170lbs toddler. It is a night and day difference when you tune a suspension for your weight I run Dunlop mx71 for desert riding and if you are in soft stuff mx 51.

thanks for the heads up Dualsporter450.  I've already checked out the info from race tech and priced out their valves.  I think the springs should be ok as I'm typically about 180lbs.  I found a spring calculator doo-dad online and it basically said the current springs are good for me.  

I've wondered though, with my vintage of WR, is spending the $$ for the correct valves, changing fork oil, etc... worth it in the end or am I trying to polish up a turd?

I know some people prefer to swap the forks for YZ forks, is that a better route to go?

Revalving and fresh oil. A good suspension guy can tune it up for what type or riding and ability you are... The gold valves are not a must have unless you want to spend the money. What type of riding are you doing.

primarily cross country trail riding, occasional mx and dune.  Tend to be lots of whoops here in the pacific NW on the trails and especially on the dunes.  I'm going to give the dunes one more go, if I'm afraid for my life, then i'll be back to 4 wheels on sand.

Edited by medicbaldwin

primarily cross country trail riding, occasional mx and dune. Tend to be lots of whoops here in the pacific NW on the trails and especially on the dunes. I'm going to give the dunes one more go, if I'm afraid for my life, then i'll be back to 4 wheels on sand.

Highly, highly recommend ENZO for anything to do with KYB's. :thumbsup:

where or who is this ENZO you speak of?  I've contacted a local suspension shop and will be discussing tomorrow options.  I have a feeling the forks will be getting a complete rebuild with a Race Tech Gold valve setup and possibly fork springs.

where or who is this ENZO you speak of? I've contacted a local suspension shop and will be discussing tomorrow options. I have a feeling the forks will be getting a complete rebuild with a Race Tech Gold valve setup and possibly fork springs.

[

Ross specializes in KYB's. You hear his name on the podium a lot in the 250 MX/SX series.

http://www.enzoracing.com

Edited by KennyMc

there's a shop just an hour from my house whose been building custom suspensions for dirt bikes as well as road bikes for quite a while.  I'll be heading his direction Friday to drop my forks off and get the rebuild and upgrade done.  He plans to use factory KYB parts, if he doesn't have them in stock then i'll be going with Race Tech.

there's a shop just an hour from my house whose been building custom suspensions for dirt bikes as well as road bikes for quite a while.  I'll be heading his direction Friday to drop my forks off and get the rebuild and upgrade done.  He plans to use factory KYB parts, if he doesn't have them in stock then i'll be going with Race Tech.

 

hopefully you are doing the shock too........

I wasn't planning to do the shock.  It seems to be pretty dialed in.  Although the bike is getting a bit advanced in age, it spent the majority of years thus far sitting in a garage.  I think it only has like 30 hours on it.

I wasn't planning to do the shock.  It seems to be pretty dialed in.  Although the bike is getting a bit advanced in age, it spent the majority of years thus far sitting in a garage.  I think it only has like 30 hours on it.

The shock uses standard shim stacks and is not a defective design.

It never hurts to do both for dialed suspension on both ends. But the front is the defective one if not fixed.

thanks for the heads up on the rear shock.  Once I get the forks back, i'm basically going to start from scratch with the rear set in the middle, reset the sag and go from there.  As for the front, the suspension guru said he'll have it set basically in the middle as well with the compression and rebound adjustments.

 

Since I have the bike all tore apart, I figured I'd take this time to install a new exhaust system and jet the carb appropriately, as well as new airfilter and new tires while i'm at it..

 

Looking forward to a new riding experience.

braaaap :thumbsup:

Edited by medicbaldwin

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