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Decent price for fork seal replacement.

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I've got a fork seal leaking.  I'm assuming you need special tools to replace it?

 

If I took my fork to someone with the tools (dealer?) what would be a reasonable expectation of price for them to simply replace it and refill it with oil?

 

 

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You can buy a tusk fork cap wrench for about $40 I believe, and then the oil and seals and to it yourself. I just did mine it's very very simple.

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You'll also need a fork seal driver, right?

 

You'll want to replace both seals, not just the one on the leaky fork. Superplush (near me and well regarded) charges $140 + parts.

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The bike has under 1,000 miles on it.

 

Dealer quoted me $40 for labor if I bring in the fork.

 

I know the oil is about $20 a bottle, the seals appears to be about 17 bucks.

 

Sounds like a $100 bill should about do it.

 

Do you really think its imperative to do both?

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The bike has under 1,000 miles on it.

Dealer quoted me $40 for labor if I bring in the fork.

I know the oil is about $20 a bottle, the seals appears to be about 17 bucks.

Sounds like a $100 bill should about do it.

Do you really think its imperative to do both?

Yes!!! Makes no since to only do it on one side. They work together, your oil will be fresh in one and the other will be crap. Having equal oil freshness and volume is critical for good suspension.

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Do it yourself.

 

If you have a 2011 or older then the only special tool you will need is a 48mm seal driver which is only $27 for a motion pro one from RMATV.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/1049/1479/Motion-Pro-Fork-Seal-Driver?term=fork%20seal%20driver

 

If you have a 2012+ then I recommend getting an inner and outer fork cap wrench for $20 also.

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/731/17693/Tusk-KYB-Dual-Chamber-Fork-Cap-Wrench?term=tusk%20fork%20tools

 

Add the oil and seal and it's not that bad. It's not hard to do either.

 

You can replace both if you want, but if it were me, I would only replace the leaky one (both the oil and dust seal).

 

However, you may want to try one of these before you tear anything apart:

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/731/34458/Risk-Racing-Fork-Seal-Doctor?term=fork%20seal%20tool

Seal_Doctor_Main_Image.jpg

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$40 labor is less than I'd have expected, especially at a dealer, even if it's only 1 fork. 

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I agree with woods rider try to clean the seals first without damaging seals, a thin metal gage would work

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I'm with woods-rider; get the tools to do it yourself.  The 1st time taking forks apart can be intimidating, but it is pretty basic.  Just read the manual, and you should be okay.  You need a fork seal driver and the tool that holds the inner rod once you unscrew the bottom nut.  

The forked part of the tool pictured is the part you need for this job: http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NzIwWDcyMA==/z/1H0AAOSwv0tU5THy/$_12.JPG Those two tools pictured there and the fork seal drivers are like the only tools you really need.  I also like using the Motion Pro Fork Oil Level Tool and a Graduated Cylinder http://www.ebay.com/itm/500ml-Transparent-Plastic-Graduated-Laboratory-Lab-Test-Measuring-Cylinder-NEW-/190586718310?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c5fda8866 (ml is the same as cc) - You can just use a "ratio rite" too. 

 

As far as seal drivers, the motion pro tool works great for me).  Unless your forks haven't been serviced in a while, I'd just take care of the one seal and leave the other fork alone.  There is no reason to change seals in pairs.  It's not unheard of to damage a seal when installing a new one, and you don't need to change seals to do oil changes.  Check for any nicks in the fork tube and take care of them before putting in the new seal.  There are many posts on this, but I just use WD40 and 1000 grit sand wet sand paper to smooth small ones out.  I did a post here: http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/1104525-ok-to-replace-fork-seals-without-changing-oil-in-inner-cartridge/#entry11892835on how to change out fork seals quickly.  

 

I'd say change the fork seal now and see how it goes (15 minute job once you get the fork off).  Then plan on doing a complete oil change in both chambers (if you have a 12+ WR) when you have about 4 hours or so (you can take breaks).  I took things slow the 1st time I did my forks, now I think I can do both in about 2 hours to include pulling them off the bike and re-install.  When doing the seals, make sure you put a plastic bag over the sharp end of the fork when sliding on the new seals.  It will be tight, but those machined edges can cut the new seal if you aren't careful.

Edited by mch

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I highly recommend cleaning first. I can't tell you how many times I have had a fork start leaking and all it took was cleaning. Seals don't go out as much as people think. The little plastic cleaning tool is best, but you can make one if you need to. Remember to slide the dust seal down first. I usually wash as much grime and oil as I can with soap and water first, then use brake cleaner and compressed air. Take your time and get all the way around the seal.

 

If you do decide to change it you need to at least do the fluid on the other side. Get the cap wrench and seal driver, you'll be money ahead in terms of time and frustration. Not to mention you will need them again.

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