HEADS UP!!!

Site upgrade in progress... Core site functions are working, but some non-critical features/functions will be temporarily unavailable while we work to restore them over the next couple of weeks.

Please post any bugs you encounter, but before you do, check to see if it's already listed.

Thanks for your patience while we work to improve the community.

Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
TheUSMC1775

Fork seals

17 posts in this topic

Hey everyone as you know fork seals come and go and I'm going to attempt on replacing them myself for the first time never done them before so I got a few questions. So I have a 2009 yz450f and i didn't get a Manuel is the suspension on my bike a kyb? And from videos I've seen this is what I got out of it, 1.count your compression clicks and rebound clicks. 2. Unscrew ur top cap. 3. Drain the oil. 4. Unscrew rebound nut. 5. Take out rebound rod. 6 remove damper and spring assembly. 7. Remove dust seal and seal clip ring. 8 seperate forks, replace seals and re assemble obvious with oil. is this right for my 2009 yz450f forks?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I did my front last weekend and my rear today and in my opinion the front was way easier. My bike is a 2010 and seriously easier then you think. I used the dyi fork video on YouTube

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ain't that tough is it?  :thumbsup:

 

If you did your first set with jerry-rigged or homemade tools, you should see how easy it is with the real ones.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey guys I just wanna add to this, I forgot to order a inner chamber cap tool , do I really need to change the fluid in the inner chamber? Or could I leave that alone?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

It's a good idea to change it, particularly if you're changing brands of fork oil, but no, it's not absolutely necessary if the fork works OK.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok so I might as well order that inner cap tool an do it right, now I don't have a Manuel is thier anyway u could help me out on what size cap tool I'll need I kno motion pro makes a cap tool for kyb would it fit on my 09?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok even with a Manuel I'm still lost, how much fluid does my inner chamber need in CCs and OZs I just wanna get these forks done thier way over due. Please help thank you!!!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Outer tubes take about 350cc per leg, plus about 180 to 200cc to fill and purge each cartridge assembly

figure about 40oz required so have 2 quarts of 5W fork oil handy before starting the job.

 

I'd recommend taking note of all adjusters and backing them out to full 'soft' as a preventative measure as myself by coincidence or not,

have previously damaged the tip of a compression needle during re-assembly while it was still screwed in the adjusted position.

(re-installing the base valve after doing the free piston mod)

 

Here's a couple of very handy videos I've used to learn SSS fork servicing:

 

Some good tips here but this guys doesn't look to be the most meticulous in his technique.

Seal replacement shown only and not dis-assembly of the cartridge, you might as well have a look into there while you're servicing the forks.

Good tip on using the axle as a holding lever while pushing against the spring to insert the 'H' tool onto the rod.

 

And two videos (part 1 & 2) by TBT Racing which are very explicative,

complete dis-assembly including the cartridge, plus a how-to on the free piston mod.

Edited by mlatour

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got both forks apart and I found out both inner valves are cracked, bottom o rings are in pieces, so I'm at a stand still till I find a shop that just sells the platic tube.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The plastic free pistons are usualy not available separately from Yamaha ,

they are only sold as a complete 'compression valve assembly' that includes

the whole fork cap, base valve, free piston, piston spring etc.

 

For your bike, it's part number : 2S2-2316A-20

and needless to say it's expensive!

http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/yamaha/Y-2S2-2316A-20-00.html

 

Best bet is to buy new metal replacement pistons like the SDI, or find plastic ones on E-Bay.

http://www.ridejbi.com/sdi-elite-fork-free-piston-pair/

Edited by mlatour

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ain't that tough is it?  :thumbsup:

 

If you did your first set with jerry-rigged or homemade tools, you should see how easy it is with the real ones.

 

If you did your first set with jerry-rigged or homemade tools, you should see how easy it is with the real ones.

 

Been there, done that.  The next time I need to buy the right tools as my home made pvc pipe tool I made when I did my old YZ426 forks worked, but... :facepalm:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0