My new '14 WR450f is slow?

I picked up a 2014 wr450f recently. Love the bike but its slow. My brothers '96 XR600R can beat it in a drag race or top speed. I find myself constantly at WOT and not realizing it. I can only get it to do 60mph top speed.

My goal isn't as much power as I can get nor is it top speed. I just feel like there is a lot more to be had. I had a CRF450R that had a lot of power (enough for me!) But the bike has bad gearing for what I do.

Anyway, what should I do?

Edited by rangerman

Have you removed the throttle stop?

and remove the pea shooter?

Edited by AtomicGeo

I can do 60 MPH at about half throttle in 5th.  You're missing something key, like the throttle stop.  Does it only twist about 1/4 of a revolution?  Throttle stop!

Yeah it only feels like the throttle opens 1/2 of what it should.

I haven't done anything to this bike. I bought it last week. I did the 1 hour break in. I have about 4 hours on it and 60 miles. I installed an hour meter. And changed the oil after break in.

I played with the idle knob but I have no idea how it works. Do I simply push it in then turn it to adjust and when I'm done do I pop it back out?

I will buy a shorter screw for it tomorrow and removed the pea shooter. Do I need to retune the bike?

Thanks again!

You don't need to retune it but I would by the gytr comp kit. It comes with a new ecu and a shorter throttle stop. Also, remove the snorkel under the battery. I did all of this plus a FMF power core. The bike is plenty fast now!

To be a green sticker bike, its all EPA pluged up. Good news is that it can be fixed. The WR was built to pass EPA but Yamaha knew that no one would buy off on it. This is why the comp ECU is less than a $100. The stock ECU is like $320. You need the GYTR ECU which has the new throttle screw. This give you full throttle. Not like the 1/4 throttle that come stock. The new ECU alows you to change the map and the stock map in it is much better than stock. Though I would change the map. You need to remove the small insert at the end of your pipe. Remove the end cap and drill out the two pop rivetes keeping it in place. After this you should blow away the 600 and the CRF. You can remove the snorkel for the air box. But to me it does not make that much of a difference and keeps the water out. Make sure you idle is set to 2000 rpm.

Edited by vlxjim

I have all the standard mods done and the last time I was out I had to drop the throttle at 86mph...    I got kinda scared  haha

Yeah it only feels like the throttle opens 1/2 of what it should.

I haven't done anything to this bike. I bought it last week. I did the 1 hour break in. I have about 4 hours on it and 60 miles. I installed an hour meter. And changed the oil after break in.

I played with the idle knob but I have no idea how it works. Do I simply push it in then turn it to adjust and when I'm done do I pop it back out?

I will buy a shorter screw for it tomorrow and removed the pea shooter. Do I need to retune the bike?

Thanks again!

The idle knob is also the cold start circuit. You only want to pull that knob out if you are starting the bike when it is completely cold. Like a choke on a carburetor. If you were operating your bike the way you described in your post you rode it the whole time with the cold start circuit on... I bet it was idling really fast after it warmed up? That's why you tried to adjust the idle? The owners manual is really helpful if you have no idea how something works on your bike..

I partially read the owners manual but didn't really understand what it was for. I was starting it cold with the kickstarter and it would start 2nd kick. But using electric start it took forever. Now I understand what it is for. I am getting a slow start (couple tries) with the electric start. I was going to adjust the idle higher but when I turned it it didn't sound like it was idling any faster either direction I turned the knob.

Any idea how to check rpm without the tuner? Can it be done with an automotive tach on the coil?

Thanks guys you've been a big help!

Where do I buy the gytr comp kit?

I partially read the owners manual but didn't really understand what it was for. I was starting it cold with the kickstarter and it would start 2nd kick. But using electric start it took forever. Now I understand what it is for. I am getting a slow start (couple tries) with the electric start. I was going to adjust the idle higher but when I turned it it didn't sound like it was idling any faster either direction I turned the knob.

Any idea how to check rpm without the tuner? Can it be done with an automotive tach on the coil?

Thanks guys you've been a big help!

Where do I buy the gytr comp kit?

 

 

Any Yamaha dealer can sell it to you, but here is a good online vendor to get to know:

 

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/2888/35591/Yamaha-GYTR-Competition-Kit-ECU?v=11468

 

If you want to go crazy with further adjustability, you can buy the tuner (or maybe find someone to borrow from):

 

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/2888/35579/Yamaha-GYTR-Power-Tuner?v=11468

 

 

If you want to keep the stock pipe and remove the pea shooter, here is the replacement  piece.  Pretty sure this also fits the '14 models even though it says '05-13

 

http://www.stadiumyamaha.com/oemcatalogs/p/yamaha_motorcycle_off_road_2013_wr450f/yamaha_accessories-performance/4ff9e7d7f870021c947d6266/quiet-gytr-performance-wr-muffler-insert

 

They sell it on Amazon and a number of other places....just google the Yamaha part number GYT-5TJ93-75-01

I partially read the owners manual but didn't really understand what it was for. I was starting it cold with the kickstarter and it would start 2nd kick. But using electric start it took forever. Now I understand what it is for. I am getting a slow start (couple tries) with the electric start. I was going to adjust the idle higher but when I turned it it didn't sound like it was idling any faster either direction I turned the knob.

Any idea how to check rpm without the tuner? Can it be done with an automotive tach on the coil?

Thanks guys you've been a big help!

Where do I buy the gytr comp kit?

 

You don't need any parts at the moment to get the bike up to speed.  Remove the throttle stop, dab some silicone up in the hole or go to home depot and just get a short metric screw to cap the hole off.  You need a security torx bit for the screw and you should pull the exhaust off to get to that screw easily (screw is under the throttle body - points straight up).  While you have the exhaust off, take off the end cap of the silencer.  At that point, you will see the 4 screws holding on the "Pea Shooter."  Remove the 4 screws, remove the pea shooter, and put the 4 screws back in (they also hold on the spark arrestor, etc.)

I had issues with my new bike dying, low power, hard starts, etc.

When I installed the Comp ECU all of that went away.

If the throttle stop and puts shooter don't work I'd look there next.

I replaced the throttle stop with a shorter one and it is amazing now! I measured how far the throttle moved before and after and it was exactly half the distance. I took it for a quick ride down my street and it lifts the front tire easily.

Thanks guys!!!

Btw this only costed me 25 cents!

I replaced the throttle stop with a shorter one and it is amazing now! I measured how far the throttle moved before and after and it was exactly half the distance. I took it for a quick ride down my street and it lifts the front tire easily.

Thanks guys!!!

Btw this only costed me 25 cents!

The dealer didn't let you know about the green sticker stuff? The dealer I bought mine from did the stop and the exhaust for free said he wouldn't let anyone leave the shop like that unless they wanted it that way. Also told me straight up to go online and get the comp ecu and tuner.

Yamaha is not alone with these corked-up enduro machines. The CRF450X, for example, is a corked-up slug off the showroom floor as well but there's no throttle stop screw at least.

 

What's cool is that the programmable ECU and shortened throttle stop screw are sold together and are cheap. Just those mods will wake up the WR. Add an FMF slip on and FMF mapping and you're golden. The WR will run awesome.

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