aligning front wheel/forks in triple tree?

which is the correct way to make everything aligned: wheel, forks, and triple tree?

 

do you tighten the top triple tree pinch bolts, install and tighten the wheel and axle, and then tighten the lower triple tree inch bolts

 

or

 

do you remove wheel and axle, loosen all triple tree pinch bolts, tighten all the triple tree pinch bolts without the wheel on, and then install and tighten the wheel/axle?

 

or ???

1. Loosen the front axle clamps, and the axle nut. 

 

2. Loosen the lower triple clamp bolts. 

 

3. Grab a handfull of front brake. Pump the forks up and down several times, pushing them as far down into the travel as you can. You'll feel the action get smoother as the tubes re-align themselves. 

 

4. Tighten the triple clamp bolts first. Use a torque wrench. Over-tightening these bolts by even a small amount distorts the tubes slightly, which will cause the bushings to pinch as the forks compress, causing a harsh mid-stroke spike in the fork action. Over-tightening these bolts by a lot will break the clamps. 

 

5. Tighten the axle by holding the nut and spinning the axle with a hex socket on a torque wrench. This will ensure that the axle is perfectly aligned in the forks. Always use a torque wrench. Over-tightening the axle will shorten the life of the wheel bearings.

 

6. Tighten the axle clamps.

 

This method will ensure perfect fork tube alignment, which will in turn ensure correct front wheel alignment. If the wheel and fork tubes are still mis-aligned after this, then either a fork tube or a triple clamp is bent.

thanks for that info!

 

the bike is basically new and i noticed the air bleeders were not at 12 oclock and not symmetrical, so i loosened the forks and aligned them.  i tightened the top triple tree pinch bolts first, then put in the axle and tightened it thinking that would align the bottom, then i tightened the lower triple tree pinch bolts.

 

just from eye balling, it looks like my front wheel is a little crooked now.  i guess i need to ride it to see for sure.

 

as far as torquing the triple tree pinch bolts...the manual says 15 ft lbs, which is 180 inch lbs.  i doubted the accuracy or my beam torque wrench, so i bought a high quality dial model that does to 300 inch lbs.

 

after about 150 inch lbs, the bolts dont feel like they are tightening, but stretching the threads.  so yeah, im not going to go past 150 inch lbs and hope to hell it holds because i dont think there is any way to repair the triple trees if they strip.

 

1. Loosen the front axle clamps, and the axle nut. 
 
2. Loosen the lower triple clamp bolts. 
 
3. Grab a handfull of front brake. Pump the forks up and down several times, pushing them as far down into the travel as you can. You'll feel the action get smoother as the tubes re-align themselves. 
 
4. Tighten the triple clamp bolts first. Use a torque wrench. Over-tightening these bolts by even a small amount distorts the tubes slightly, which will cause the bushings to pinch as the forks compress, causing a harsh mid-stroke spike in the fork action. Over-tightening these bolts by a lot will break the clamps. 
 
5. Tighten the axle by holding the nut and spinning the axle with a hex socket on a torque wrench. This will ensure that the axle is perfectly aligned in the forks. Always use a torque wrench. Over-tightening the axle will shorten the life of the wheel bearings.
 
6. Tighten the axle clamps.
 
This method will ensure perfect fork tube alignment, which will in turn ensure correct front wheel alignment. If the wheel and fork tubes are still mis-aligned after this, then either a fork tube or a triple clamp is bent.

 

#5  i assumed you held the hex side of the axle still and used a torque wrench on the nut on the opposite side?

#5 i assumed you held the hex side of the axle still and used a torque wrench on the nut on the opposite side?

I spin the axle while holding the nut to tighten it, then put a torque wrench on the nut for the final value. Spinning the axle instead of the nut ensures that the fork lowers are perfectly aligned so the axle doesn't bind. The axle has a hex end just for this purpose.

I should probably re-write it to clarify that.

Edited by Chokey

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