Triple Clamps 2012+

Any of you have experience bending triple clamps?  The last time I had my forks out I had a difficult time getting the clutch side fork in.  I had to take out the bolts that clamp down on the forks and spread both the upper and lower clamp to get them into the correct position and it was still really hard.  Today I serviced my forks and just remembered how much of a problem I had.  I think it took like 45+ minutes with just me doing it.  It seems the majority of binding is on the lower clamp (before it even starts going into the top clamp).  I knew there was an issue, so I tried installing that fork 1st with the throttle side fork off the bike.  I also loosened the steering stem nut.  I figure it has to be the fork or the triple clamp and the fork seems to work fine, so I'm leaning towards the clamp being the issue.  To get it out, I had to tap it out with a piece of wood and a hammer.  I can't remember anything in particular that would have caused this, but I have ran into things that I know were extra stress on the forks.

 

Any thing to add / thoughts?  Anyone makes nice aftermarket (direct bolt on) clamps that won't cost a fortune? 

Did my share of shopping for another set also, the yz ones I think are not as wide as wr also have different mount on top so would have to make bracket for speed-o, here is you best bet is to get another OEM for 100. on e-bay. unless you have about 400 to spend, good luck and here is auction. eBay item number:

191442132477

I always have a hard time getting the tubes to drop out on my WR. I use a wide chisel or screw driver and tap it into the clamp to spread it at the pinch bolts top and bottom and they'll drop right out and no damage to the caps from pounding.

 

They are bent a little but function perfectly once everything is all put back together right. Make sure not to over torque the pinch bolts. My left handle bar is a little bent too....Maybe I'm used to it.

Edited by cubera

The stock lower clamp is tight across the line, completely normal

I have a real small pry bar that fits in my tool box just for that

In another thread I remember someone getting bent out of shape when I recommended prying on the clamps to get the forks to slide in.  Maybe reaming it out with a ball hone is the answer? :)

I usually take the bolts out and use two very large screw drivers to open the clamps then slide the tubes in.

As others have said, I take a large flat head screwdriver or pry bar, stick in the gap and push the flathead/prybar to spread the gap, (do this with my gut or leg) while I move the fork either in or out.

Bringing back this thread, because the problem still persists.  Even with prying, they don't drop out.  It's  major chore trying to get them back in (It would be nice to have a second person, but I usually don't).  Getting them out is no easy task either.  I can pull and twist on the throttle side.  The clutch side, even if I pull and twist it won't come out.  If I pry, they are still tight and need a second person.  The norm is to use a hammer and piece of wood to tap it down.

 

My hope is that there has been more options in the last few years.  Anyone know of any solid triple clamps that are pretty much bolt in and all the OEM stuff lines up (number plate / light)? 

I have had no problems on (5) WR's.

 

You put the bike on a stand, remove the wheel, loosen all the pinch bolts, and twist hard while pulling them down.

They will only twist easily in one direction.

I have had no problems on (5) WR's.

 

You put the bike on a stand, remove the wheel, loosen all the pinch bolts, and twist hard while pulling them down.

They will only twist easily in one direction.

 

I have the wheel off, the pinch bolts completely out, prying, and have these problems.  I loosened the steering head nut too on a prior occasion and that didn't help.  I'm guessing something got tweaked along the way.

If it is tough to get the second fork into & through the bottom clamp I don't believe it is caused by a bent fork. Think about it, what is it binding against in just the lower clamp by itself? I have to wedge a straight slot screw driver in to spread the top clamp but not the bottom clamp. The lack of clearance between the inside diameter of the clamp and the outside diameter of the fork leg. If you had a bent clamp or fork leg you should see a gap on one side of the top clamp and not on the other. You want a tight fit so it clamps 360 degree equally and holds very good. Loose is a bad thing in this case I believe.

It has nothing to do with something being bent.

 

The triple clamps are not milled with ultra precision, so the upper and lower clamps holes are not perfectly aligned relative to themselves, or each other.

Loosening the top clamp will make this even more difficult, as the clamp will move.

 

You have to use all your mite and twist/pull-push to get them to move, with a plastic 'level wedge' inserted into the bottom clamp. 

 

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