New 2013 yz450f rear wheel hop plus a couple questions

WD40 is not an effective penetrating oil.

Ok thanks Gray. Susp tuning is new to me, only thing I ever did on my wr was a little more compression and more oil on the forks, never touched the shock settings. I buggered up the preload collar on the yz, didn't realize I was supposed to just turn the spring to turn the collar and used a punch and hammer. Now the collar doesn't want to spin, need to order a new collar. Hopefully the threads on the shock body aren't mangled, I'll file them back into shape if they're damaged. Live and learn. Gonna grease it next time before adjusting.

If the collar is all you need consider yourself very lucky. The shock body is aluminum, the collars are steel. I doubt the collar is what is damaged. Don't use grease, it just introduces other problems.  Follow Greyracer's advice. Also, read your  manual, front to back. You will be surprised what you learn.

Edited by YHGEORGE

Actually, one of the reasons this comes up on the newer bikes is because the adjuster collar was changed to aluminum at some point. 

I will get some Pb blaster for the future. Yhgeorge I read the manual, it lists the procedure for adjusting sag as elevate rear wheel, clean dirt, loosen locknut, turn adjustment collar. No special tips.

The collar is steel on my bike Gray. I'm not too concerned about the shock body threads, it started seizing pretty much where I needed it set so the threads will still be in decent condition. I'll cut off the collar with a zip cut, fix the threads with a needle file, and install a new collar. Just have to be more careful in the future. The manual also said each turn is 1/16" of sag, I found that to be untrue. 1/16" of collar adjustment changed the sag anywhere from 0-1/4" depending on how much it preloaded the spring.

I will get some Pb blaster for the future. Yhgeorge I read the manual, it lists the procedure for adjusting sag as elevate rear wheel, clean dirt, loosen locknut, turn adjustment collar. No special tips.

I believe the collar is steel on my bike Gray, but I will check when I get home from work as I wasn't paying too much attention to the material. I'm not too concerned about the shock body threads, it started seizing pretty much where I needed it set so the threads will still be in decent condition. I'll cut off the collar with a zip cut, fix the threads with a needle file, and install a new collar. Just have to be more careful in the future. The manual also said each turn is 1/16" of sag, I found that to be untrue. 1/16" of collar adjustment changed the sag anywhere from 0-1/4" depending on how much it preloaded the spring.

Edited: I will get some Pb blaster for the future. Yhgeorge I read the manual, it lists the procedure for adjusting sag as elevate rear wheel, clean dirt, loosen locknut, turn adjustment collar. No special tips.

I believe the collar is steel on my bike Gray, but I will check when I get home from work as I wasn't paying too much attention to the material. I'm not too concerned about the shock body threads, it started seizing pretty much where I needed it set so the threads will still be in decent condition. I'll cut off the collar with a zip cut, fix the threads with a needle file, and install a new collar. Just have to be more careful in the future. The manual also said each turn is 1/16" of sag, I found that to be untrue. 1/16" of collar adjustment changed the sag anywhere from 0-1/4" depending on how much it preloaded the spring.

Well I got around to fixing the shock body. I used Pb blaster and a strap wrench to remove the *aluminum * preload ring. Locknut is steel but preload ring is alum. 2 threads were damaged on the body but only on one side of the shock. I fixed with a file and cleaned up the preload ring. Oiled it all and reassembled, and it's good as new.

All good, spins nice and freely by hand.

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