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azrider87

Lighting stator and what battery/light to run

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So I installed a ricky stator lighting stator. It's rated at 35w output. I will be installing a bd rectifier/regulator to charge a battery, which will power an led bar for night rides. My question is this, what light can I run and what battery will handle the light and take a charge from the stator?

I'm looking at a 36w led light bar, which in a 12v system draws 3amps. I'm assuming that's per hour. I was looking at atv batteries, but only cca is listed, not capacity. I'd imagine that the battery could sufficiently power a 36w led bar for several hours, considering a 3amp draw. I just wanna be sure of that, and that the stator's 35w output would be enough to keep the battery charged while running the led bar.

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Forget the battery, it will just give you problems. Get a small capacitor and run a 30-35w light bar.  Check my thread, my light bar works well as soon as I get above idle

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there is no reason to have a battery on a kick only bike... it is just dead weight and extra complication

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Battery will power the led when bike is not running. Stator keeps battery charged. I weigh 135lbs, so a two pound battery is not gonna make a difference... I'm not a track racer. Just wanna have a light option for night riding. Sure, I could have ran an ac regulator to run the lights, but if the bike dies, so does the light.

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Install complete. Rickystator installed, baja designs rectifier/regulator, turnigy 12v/4.5Ah battery, cree 4" 18w led headlight, and red led strips for tail lights. Switches mounted behind tail plastics with access to switch thru the subframe handles... one opens or closes the stator output to the rectifier/regulator (to prevent frying the rectifier/regulator when no battery is installed) and the other simply turns the leds on or off.

Time to do some night riding at Gordons Well in a couple days :)

1416939825799.jpg

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Successful weekend at Gordon's Well and night riding. No issues during the trip, and night riding allowed for much more riding time!

Oh... just to clarify... a battery IS a capacitor.

Gonna run some electrical tests to estimate average draw from loads and stator/rectifier charge output. Might be able to squeeze in another led

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TO clarify, a battery and a capacitor are in no way the same thing.  A battery is capable of creating electricity by chemical means.  Some are rechargeable, and some aren't.  Capacitors are an electrical device that resists changes in voltage when attached to a circuit.  It stores nothing unless something is put in it.  Both can store electrical energy, but the battery has far more capacity to do so than a capacitor.

 

In a system such as your bike, the voltage rises and falls as the poles reverse in the magneto (which is the technically correct way to describe what the stator and flywheel are together).  It produces AC current, which is converted to DC current by the rectifier.  A voltage regulator only controls the upper limit of system voltage, and can't do anything about the fact that the voltage keeps passing through zero. 

 

The raw AC current would read as +12v, 0, -12v, 0, +12v when read with a volt meter.  The rectified current all points the same way, but still has zeros; +12v, 0 ,+12v, 0, etc.  The slower the engine runs, the longer the time the system spends below, say, 8 volts.  In those moments, a battery keeps the system at full voltage.  Likewise, a capacitor will see the voltage drop off and discharge some or all of what it stored when the voltage was higher back into the circuit, accomplishing essentially the same thing.  So, as used here, to eliminate the flicker at idle, a capacitor can substitute for a battery, but there are any number of other tasks that one can do and the other can't.

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