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Dexter42

EFI mapping guide

18 posts in this topic

I'm new to the efi game and trying to wrap my head around the mapping part of it. I have had a few carb bikes in the past and have tuned them via jets with success. I need some help understanding when to add fuel or ignition timing?? If you look up carb guides you will find plenty of guides that describe really good the process of tuning a carb but I have yet to find a guide for efi mapping so with that said I hope this thread can become one... Please share what you know about fuel and timing in regards to mods or performance. I'm also posting it here cause I'm a new owner of a 13 yz450f. I have the yamaha tuner and have seen the stickie thread on maps but doesn't explain how those maps became what they are.. Need some help from the efi gurus... Thank you to anyone that is willing to share.

Edited by Dexter42

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Nothing to worry about, map changes are simple and really not needed for most bolt on mods. 

 The beauty of EFI is that it makes "jetting" changes automatically for temp, altitude ect.. 

stock maps are generally very very good, but mapping changes are more for tuning the "feel and delivery" to suit

your wants and needs. 

 

 

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Thanks for the reply, I believed I read on the sticky thread that all 0 is the stock map setting. Can anyone confirm? I was hoping to of gotten a little more help understanding this but it appears most are probably as lost as I am. Ohh well, trial and error it looks like.

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Thanks for the reply, I believed I read on the sticky thread that all 0 is the stock map setting. Can anyone confirm? I was hoping to of gotten a little more help understanding this but it appears most are probably as lost as I am. Ohh well, trial and error it looks like.

Yes stock mapping is all zero's, fuel and ign. 

there is a video on the Yamaha Blu Cru website that may help.

 You won't find a chart with suggested settings for temp, elevation etc.. EFI does that with the preset mapping.

Map changes are only slight "tweaks" to the stock settings. hope that helps a bit more....

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What makes situation a bit tricky, is the fact that the baseline setting has changed from year to year. On the tuner screen stock setting is all zeros on any bike allright, but 10/11 bike is different from 12 and 13. The maps in the sticky are mainly from 10/11 era, so if you want your 13 to behave like 10 with e.g. Marmont map, you need to make some compensation adjustments. But how much and to what direction?

 

Anybody know how to adjust a 13 stock map to mirror 10/11 stock map? I tried to find this info when I got the new bike, but could not.

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Thanks for the reply fellows, I'm not sure if I'm doing this right but here's a map I'm gonna try.

FI. IG.

2 2 2 -1 -1 -1

1 1 1 -2 -2 -2

1 1 1 -3 -3 -3

Also has anyone had problems with there gytr tuner?? Mine is acting funny, it will work just fine on its on and when I monitor the bike but when I plug it in to load a map it doesn't want to turn on, just blinks?? Has anyone had this happen?? I'm wondering if it could be a batterie issue or maybe my tuner is messed up... Lost??

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What makes situation a bit tricky, is the fact that the baseline setting has changed from year to year. On the tuner screen stock setting is all zeros on any bike allright, but 10/11 bike is different from 12 and 13. The maps in the sticky are mainly from 10/11 era, so if you want your 13 to behave like 10 with e.g. Marmont map, you need to make some compensation adjustments. But how much and to what direction?

Anybody know how to adjust a 13 stock map to mirror 10/11 stock map? I tried to find this info when I got the new bike, but could not.

Curious if you could swap out the 10-11 ecu and get the 10-11 maps/bark your looking for?

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...(the tuner) will work just fine on its on and when I monitor the bike but when I plug it in to load a map it doesn't want to turn on, just blinks??

 

Change the batteries.

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Thanks for the reply fellows, I'm not sure if I'm doing this right but here's a map I'm gonna try.

FI. IG.

2 2 2 -1 -1 -1

1 1 1 -2 -2 -2

1 1 1 -3 -3 -3

Also has anyone had problems with there gytr tuner?? Mine is acting funny, it will work just fine on its on and when I monitor the bike but when I plug it in to load a map it doesn't want to turn on, just blinks?? Has anyone had this happen?? I'm wondering if it could be a batterie issue or maybe my tuner is messed up... Lost??

Did you get a chance to try that map? Did you like it? How did it effect the way your bike ran? I'm curious because I have never seen anything like it before. Did you find that map on line? Or is it one that you came up with on your own?

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Did you get a chance to try that map? Did you like it? How did it effect the way your bike ran? I'm curious because I have never seen anything like it before. Did you find that map on line? Or is it one that you came up with on your own?

I have not had time to try it out but will be going out to ocotillo wells this weekend and will be trying it. I made this map on my own and after doing some research and what I learned from carb jetting I based all my setting on that. Ppl have expressed they're feelings about the low end bark and no top end so I fueled my FI like a carb/ lean from factory so one up on the pilot and two up on the main (only mod is FMF slip on) and I mapped my ignition to hopefully take some bark off the bottom end and taper towards a long top end or so that was my train of taught

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After riding the bike all day yesterday on that map, I can say that the map was a success. Bike still feels plenty strong and the power was super smooth from bottom to top. Bike started up fine, no backfiring or anything like that, I can see why people complain about the low end hit but if you have good throttle and clutch control it helps. I unfortunately did not try a stock map but could only assume it would be way more aggressive than my map. One thing to note it was about 90* out and never once did my bike get to hot/ over heat after long sandy/hard pack rides. I was really surprise how well it did with this kind of weather and terrain. For my desert riding that I do and to try and keep my gas consumption low i am going to be trying another map on the 22 of this month when I will be out there again. Not 100% on it but it will look something like this:

FI IG

0 0 0 -3 -3 -3

0 0 0 -4 -4 -4

0 0 0 -5 -5 -5

I'm am gonna keep working on taking some of the low end hit out, making the bike feel like it revs longer/more top end, and trying to consume little fuel with out sacrificing a lean condition. If this map works out I will then move very cautiously on my FI to the negative side for a little more fuel economy. Again all this is relative to desert riding/ long rides witch is my train of taught with all this. When summer hits again(so cal)I will be moving towards an mx set up to hit my local tracks.

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Anyone notice the ecu have timers in them? When you plug the programmer and go to monitor it has a timer for the bike. It can be zero out if you'd like but just taught it was kind of kool so I don't need to buy a timer.

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